HowieBass

One for Prince maybe...

Matsumoku built instruments have fans because in general they're really well made guitars and basses - I think the reason why they're gaining traction these days is that they were a little overlooked back in the 70s and 80s (Japanese Squiers are becoming popular for the same reason).

[quote name='dlloyd' timestamp='1447192835' post='2905759']
Well, that's interesting... Have a look a few posts down this page:

[url="http://www.talkbass.com/threads/the-fender-jazz-bass-club.445774/page-41"]http://www.talkbass.....445774/page-41[/url]

There's a Highway 1 with headstock trussrod adjustment... I think that looks like a good match.
[/quote]

The headstock decal on the OP's bass is completely different though (old style). I've read that the control pots can be a guide to the age of the instrument with some form of dating code found on those but this might only be on much older basses...

[quote name='davidmoore' timestamp='1447095132' post='2904839']
Thanks very much!
However i did check the serial number but can't find match for it on the fender website.
Anyone know? It reads on the headstock DES 169062
Thanks for any help
[/quote]

That's NOT the serial number, it's a registered design (patent) number - [url="http://www.google.co.uk/patents/USD169062"]http://www.google.co...tents/USD169062[/url]

The serial number is often on the back of the headstock.

EDIT: Beaten to it LOL.

Serial number info here http://www.guitarrepairbench.com/guitar-dating/fender-serial-number.html

Regarding compliance - I'm assuming it's due to the thickness/stiffness of the B string that it becomes difficult to achieve perfect intonation up at the dusty end - or maybe it's just my bass where it's a problem. I can generally get perfect intonation on all the other strings on my Curbow 5 past the 19th fret and beyond (and indeed on all my 4 string instruments too). Do taper wound strings improve this situation?

Safely protected by that car mat - thank goodness!

Is it any good for metal?

I agree with you on this - once I'd learned how to set up a bass properly I loved how my old Westone Spectrum LX sounded and it developed an even better tone after I put some La Bella 'Slappers' on it

I confess that I'm the same (as the OP) when it comes to these kinds of photos and have always wondered whether there's some kind of hidden bit of support under an instrument or has the owner placed it as softly as possible on whatever surface offends my sensibilities LOL.

[quote name='bassfan41' timestamp='1446844086' post='2902944']
Thanks for the responses guys. All good information. I will take the advice of trying and oiling it up first and see if this helps. If not, I will take it back to the store. This is when I'm happy I don't buy over the interweb. I hear you on the lineless, bassman7755, that's in the future budget.
[/quote]

If it's the Squier VM fretless then oiling won't help, the fingerboard isn't wood, it's a phenolic resin type material, ebonol, as others have already mentioned. This problem with raised fretlines has been noted by some owners of the Squier VM fretless though I don't know how common it is nor if it was just a particular batch affected by the issue. I'd be inclined to take it back to the shop and show them what's happened.

Just blurted out "Golly, that's a nice bass" at the sight of that gorgeous Sei! Congratulations

Slightly off topic here but is it just me or do those frets look like they'd benefit from a recrowning (assuming there's enough metal left)?

As MoonBaseAlpha suggests, some kind of tough self adhesive tape/velcro option would undoubtedly work but you'll have a bit of extra height to contend with and the potential problem of removal of adhesive later should you decide to get rid of the covers. The velcro option leaves the patches visible when the covers aren't there which to my mind would be uglier than screw holes. I'd be inclined to use screws and countersink the holes in the body so if you take the covers off you can put the screws back in and they'll sit mostly flush with the surface.

I'm disappointed there's no 'neck straight and true' or 'plays like butter' endorsements...

Silly mistake

Tolex is pretty hard wearing so I'd be tempted to use a damp cloth first and then when dry use something like a car dash cleaner spray then buff off with a duster or microfibre cloth.

[quote name='Funky Dunky' timestamp='1446370471' post='2898780']
Very talented lady for sure, but her music does nothing for me.
[/quote]

I have to side with Funky Dunky here; I only made it halfway through her performance. Interesting bass though!

Could be an issue with the output jack socket - I reckon that's the thing that gets most mechanical wear and tear. Have you tried cleaning the contacts? I assume you've already tried a couple of different cables to eliminate that as the source of the problem?

Did you remove the finish from inside the neck pocket? If so that might have something to do with the change in fit?

My first bass was a Columbus Jazz as it happens and I seem to remember that it didn't have any kind of truss rod cover, plus it had Fender style tuners - however I think the instrument I linked to might be an earlier version and they possibly came from different factories too.

You could try taking the neck off and clamping it as Dave has to here...

http://youtu.be/4KsY-aX-zzs

Looks like a neck from a Columbus bass - look at this image http://guitar-auctions.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2014/05/lot0108.jpg

Description says the bass comes in at 6kg... 13lbs!

Maybe try a heavier gauge B - though I just looked online and it seems your bass probably comes fitted with a 130, so going to something like a 135 might not make much difference. You might try hex-core strings which are usually rather stiffer than strings wound on a round core.