Musky

I might have this wrong, but as I remember things the retailer may well be correct - you're not entitled to a refund after 7 days. You're still covered by legislation covering faulty goods (Sale of Goods Act?) but they only have to repair or replace the item.

It's not looking to be a great line up so far, for my tastes at least. I'd be more inclined to go to Truck in that neck of the woods, and is much cheaper.

Incidentally, Glastonbury doesn't sign any exclusive acts - they take the attitude that bands either want to play there or they don't. They won't pay any more for exclusivity.

[quote name='Evil Undead' timestamp='1394058218' post='2387578']

So, as the title says, oh balls.
[/quote]

I'd say that was fairly restrained under the circumstances.

I really hope this all pans out for you Mel.

Bill is absolutely correct in what he says - components that run hotter will have a shorter life.

How much of a difference it's going to make will depend on the amp and how well it copes with the extra demand on it's cooling.

[quote name='Ou7shined' timestamp='1393928023' post='2385813']
Hey thanks ever so much for taking the time to post this.
From what I can see, it looks a little different to the one I have here. He might have used similar techniques to wire them up though.

I wonder if you could knock up a rough sketch of how everything is connected in your circuit? I might be able to get a better idea of where he was coming from and replicate it in this one here.
[/quote]

I'll give it a crack, though a whole bunch of those wires seem to disappear into the preamp. I'll take a poke about and let you know what I find.

As you can see, it's a minor rats nest in there. It's probably best if you just let me know exactly what you need, but the treble and bass pots are both 100k (I imagine the 'L' after the '100k' means they're log) and the square pot is 500k (push/pull switch for active/passive). Presumably the second volume pot is the same value but I can't read it due to the positioning of the circuit board.

I've got a Pangborn circuit in one of my basses. Push/Pull on one of the volume controls, phantom power. Seem to remember that there was a stacked pot in there and the circuit board was enclosed in something or other.

I'm a bit busy this weekend but I'll see if I can have a poke around and let you know what I find.

Edit: There used to be a Pangborn group on Yahoo. Common comment was that the electronics could be a bit unreliable.

[quote name='Bassassin' timestamp='1393606202' post='2382548']
If this is getting dragged OT then I'm in!

Kimbara (Matsumoku) Rickenfaker, from International Musician mag, mid-70s:



Doesn't look like it's the whole review, unfortunately.

J.
[/quote]
I've got a copy of that mag Jon, and as far as I remember that was all there was to it.

Ah. This is the copy I've got. First edition from 1995.



The one in the ebay link seems to a US edition from 2008. It's in a larger format as well.

There must be two editions of this book. There are two pictures of Wals on page 48 in mine but no picture of Jamerson's bass on page 51 (just a tiny picture of him on the front cover of Bass Player on page 11).

Might have to go out and find the other edition now.

Good grief - book GAS.

Excellent! Were the band any good last night?

Undoubtedly too late for you now, but on the off chance that you're in the habit of checking in on a mobile you could try Ain't Nothin But... 20 Kingly St W1. Free entry on Thursdays but pricey drinks.

I don't know of anyone who makes a switch like this, but it'd be very easy to make you own. Just do as the guy in your link has done, only hook up a stereo lead connected to a latching footswitch in place of the toggle inside the box (connect the shield to earth). Or wire it to a stereo jack if you'd prefer to be able to disconnect the lead to the footswitch.

[quote name='Jean-Luc Pickguard' timestamp='1393450334' post='2380569']
If it was a genuine blocked & bound fender I'd expect to see a bullet truss rod adjuster at the headstock end - not a x-slotted adjuster at the heel end. I think this is most likely an allparts and if so will have 'licensed by fender' on it (unless it has been removed)
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Long time, no see.

Welcome back.

It was Steve bbb, but it would seem he no longer works at that company. Perhaps he can point you in the right direction though.

You just unplug the jack.

The SR300 has active electronics so it'll require a standard 9V battery. It'll be powered up by plugging in a jack, so be sure to unplug it when you're not using it.

As others have pointed out, the Orange uses a Fender tone stack which has a mid cut in most positions and unfortunately isn't the most versatile. Take a look at [url="http://btpub.boyd-printing.com/publication/?i=76122"]Bass Gear Mag's review[/url], which gives useful plots of the tone controls. Basically the flattest response you'll get is with bass and treble fully down and mid full up.

I'd be inclined to think that it's down to the cab (although beware of relying too much on manufacturers specs - they can be complete bunk). Raising the cab off the ground and keeping it away from walls will reduce it's bass output.

[quote name='wotsy' timestamp='1393313433' post='2378474']
Antoria 'Black Eagle'
[url="http://m.gumtree.com/p/guitars/antoria-bass-guitar/1050123440"]http://m.gumtree.com...itar/1050123440[/url]
[/quote]
Bargain alert!

Great outcome, and very useful info that these can be repaired relatively painlessly. It's quite amazing that this doesn't seem to be a standard fix.

SWR have gone the same way as Genz Benz under Fender. Another one bites the dust.

[quote name='Bassassin' timestamp='1393245980' post='2377665']
Thanks - suddenly got cold feet over all the hot JH action I missed while I was gone!

Here it is, then:



J.
[/quote]
That is a pretty amazing copy, just missing a bit of gold plating. If I saw a one of these about I'd have to buy it just to hang on the wall.

[quote name='Bassassin' timestamp='1393201464' post='2377392']
Genuine fake knockoffs of the 4004LK do exist:

[i]*pics deleted for fear of The Wrath Of Hall*[/i]

That turned up on Fleabay about 5 years back, around the time those rather sexy Bach copies were around. It was brand new & not all that dear.

Jon.
[/quote]
Pictures are fine Jon, as is discussion of fakes. It's just links to any ads that are banned.

There's plenty of Marshall biscuit basketweave available on ebay.

[quote name='bassman7755' timestamp='1393077045' post='2375899']
Personally I think its all hogwash. I'd be willing to bet that noone could reliably identify the brand of an amplifier in a blind listening test through the same speaker with flat EQ. All a typical bass amp is doing is taking a small voltage signal and making it louder with a relatively high degree of linearity and most of the difference between amps will be non-linear artifacts below the 45 db or so (unless your running the amp into its clipping region) threshold where human hearing generally cant detect them.

--- edit ---

There have been several studies that shown that in blind tests people cannot reliably identify coke and pepsi despite claiming to prefer one over the other. MRI scans have show that peoples brains react differently depending which one they think they are drinking (and not which one they are actually drinking) and hence their actual perception of taste varies according to what they think they are drinking. I personally think this effect accounts for about 80% of the supposed "special character" of audio equipment be it music amplification/hi-fi/whatever.

So to summarise: all any bass amp needs 1) to be able to apply some basic EQ 2) to provide some smooth clipping for those of us that like a bit of overdrive 3) to make it louder with decent linearity across a reasonably wide frequency range. Everything else is IMO perceptual bias as per the coke/pepsi stuff induced by marketing and personal preconceptions e.g. whether its got chicken head knobs or a bit of nice cloth on it then it must sound "warmer".
[/quote]

While your other points are completely valid, if you set very many amp's EQ to what is nominally flat (e.g. 12 o'clock) and run it through a frequency analyser you'll find that they are a pretty long way from flat. Some will only even approach a flat response at extreme settings. Many manufacturers do build a 'shape' into their amps, which may be over-ridden with judicious use of EQ but nevertheless the amp remains biased towards that tone.

How many people could distinguish between a Jazz and a Precision 100% of the time? Probably not many, if any, but it doesn't mean that there are no differences.