Bobzilla

I think the bi-amping on my trace is buggered. I can't get any sound out of the associated jacks. Any clues? Alternatively, any respected amp repair shops that would be able to help me with something like this in the Surrey/Hampshire/Berkshire (possibly Sussex as well) area? Ta

Fixed it!!! Yay. Just needed a hint from a wiring diagram on another pre-amp I was looking at (an aguilar, which is a 'you wire the pots yourself' one), which showed me that the negative battery lead goes into the jack socket, not onto the board. Had to resolder two of the wires on the volume pots - the soldering really is crap, and I'd be heatshrinking it all just for good measure. But all is now working. Guess I'm better at micro-soldering than I thought, just so long as its not onto a board. Ta.

[quote name='brensabre79' timestamp='1336057585' post='1640270'] You could try a PM to [url="http://basschat.co.uk/user/121-oldgit/"]OldGit[/url] on here, I think he has a P Bass lyte diagram. [/quote] I'm relatively new here, but I'm not entirely sure that I can without tghe assistance of a widja board...

[quote name='Ou7shined' timestamp='1336047802' post='1639982'] Have a butchers at the Aguilar OBP-3 [/quote] Think i can get that one to work - dual concentric high/low, pull pot for volume/active bypass, single pots for mid, mid frequency and blend.

If I can't fix my pre-amp myself, it might be quite expensive to get a luthier to do it (unless I can find someone who is good at neat soldering and can do it for me if I tell them what goes where). So, it might be time to look at a new one. So, what recommendations, and prices. I want five knobs, just because that is what is standard on the Lyte. I want 3 band. I like the idea of a passive over-ride (if possible, the pickups need power to run). Given that the pickups are powered, I am not sure if I can do 18v (and I don't really want to change the pickups if I can avoid it). So sell me a replacement. I know that some have gone for the East and the Seymour Duncan. Any others, and anyone know what the benefits are of these two? Thanks

I think I also know why there is a hum until I touch the strings (an associated shield earthing problem I think).

Does anyone have a wiring diagram for the pre-amp on a P-Bass Lyte Deluxe from 1998 or so? I have two wires that have come off mine, one of which is the battery wire. Failing that, anyone got any suggestions for someone who can repair it? I am in Alton, Hampshire. If I had any money, I would be looking at a new pre-amp, but that's out of the question at the minute. Thanks.

I can slap. I can get a nice percussive tone that I am happy with. On the E string. As soon as I try and translate to the A string, it all goes horribly wrong. Twangy, hitting the E string, buzzy. Nothing like the clarity and hit of the E string. How do I break out of this and be the slapper I know I can be? Ta

had a look at the bass centre website yesterday, and it appears to be online only with a warehouse collection point in Surrey. All their photos on their website appear to be the ones from Wapping, with nothing (well, one) from their Liverpool Street store.

[quote name='Roland Rock' timestamp='1335358854' post='1629783'] I got my bass 'serviced' there once too (setup, fret dress etc) which seemed fine. It was £100 - no idea if that's good or bad, as I have no frame of reference. [/quote] Same here - a Fender P-Bass Lyte Deluxe. I went there because I presumed they knew what they were doing. When I got it back, it didn't quite feel as good as when I sent it in, but presumed that the set-up was good because they were a professional outfit with professional techs. I have now re-set it to something that feels right for me.

Bass centre? I went there years ago when it was in a cavern outside Wapping tube station, and it seemed really nice and friendly. Then they got sold, and moved to back end of Liverpool Street, and I felt really self conscious round there. There was some Basstech kid in there playing Jaco tunes (Porttrait of Tracy if I remember right) and it just felt wrong. Anyone else have any thoughts on them?

My Trace head has an active/passive switch for the input. I am finding that with my P-Bass Lyte Deluxe, with active circuitry, I have to have the input gain at 10, and even then I am not even on the 'ok' box. Is this a problem with the bass, or should I be going in as 'passive'? I've seen a few threads that suggest that the active/passive distinction should be high/low gain instead, suggesting that some active basses may need high gain, whereas some passive basses may only need low gain. But I also understand that there is/should be an impedance difference, does this create an issue? Thanks