funkyjazz

Great tips. Thanks! A luthier suggested I buy a vintage instrument as they are more predictable in terms of possible cracks. I am a bit scared of that as I live in a very dry climate with also big temperature excursions (-20C to +30C). Of course temperature is easy to control but humidity less so and that is the real issue I guess. If any of those is able to ship a double bass for reasonable money than I could consider them

Thanks but unfortunately shipping costs are prohibitive from Bassanova. Danmusikk does not charge much but I am a bit unsure of their bass which is the one you posted. Locally I have a person which would be able to perform a setup and maybe some other work on an upright but not so much more. I am in fact also considering small body upright basses so in case of anything it is doable to ship the bass for repair. Which one is a good reliable shop in uk for basses? They might be able to offer shipping to Norway at a reasonable price more so than Bassanova. I have seen this before for products shipped from abroad at a lower cost than products shipped within Norway. Strange, isn’t it?

Thanks for you answer. Unfortunately I live faraway from any bass or music shop. The only option I have is travelling to Oslo at the end of may to try a Hora hybrid which would cost me about 3500 euro as opposed to this which costs 2000 euro. I trust the shop in Oslo a bit more for their setup. I am not in a hurry to buy but I am trying to not spend a fortune if I don’t need to.

Has anyone come across Arvada double vasses and spesially the Arvada DB-820? it is a hybrid (wooden top) and it is offered at a good price at a shop in my country. No possibility to try as it is faraway (return policy but I’d like to avoid to ship it back). I am in the market for a hybrid and a Hora would cost me almost double as much…

In the last years I have been a fan of the "no amp" party. I have gone in ears and enjoyed the sound coming from my Noble di after a Cali76 and a Empress Paraeq. With such a setup the backline amp was only for display. In the last week I have started to think that I could use my UAD Apollo solo as a live rig also. I found a dream sound with the Helios 69 plugin in parallel with either a B15 or a 800RB GK plugin I was wondering how do you guys would go about integrating it with the Noble DI and eventually with the Cali76-TX I currently use. I mean there are great simulations of the 1176 on the Apollo anyway. I think it is worth keeping a bit of control with a Paraeq maybe. Would you use the Noble at all? Would it give me something more? How would you connect the Noble and the Apollo? I thought bass -> Cali76-TX (if at all) -> apollo -> Noble -> xlr to FOH (and eventually jack out to amp) Would I need anything between the apollo and the NOble (which has 10MOhm input impedence) Do you guys see any drawbacks with it all? (I know I need my laptop to power the apollo, I accounted for this problem) More specifically would you put the UAD first and then the Noble? Do I need to put a reamp box between them?

It is more of a hiss (mic picked up by the driver). btw I have some custom f holes so there won’t be a solution (if that would have helped) other than blowing 2 balloons inside the body

Just for clarity. I have a piezo pickup and as mic a DPA 4099 for double bass. I have worked at the sound in headphones and now I am happy with it. I am just trying to find the right cabinet for my taste. The PJB C4 is already a good one. But I tend to look at other opportunities to get a better sound all the time

In my quest for the sound of my acoustic bass guitar which in fact sounds much more like an upright I tested the cabs I have and found the following Tecamp 1x12 I had to exclude the tweeter immediately to avoid feedback from microphone. The sound was good but a bit towards the low mids and not as dry as I wish for an upright sound. PJB C4 much more the sound I want. Unfortunately the 5" speakers tended to feed a bit more than the 12" alone so some care was needed. I had to engage a notch filter on my Headway EDB2-HE preamp and keep the speaker high at ear level. Whereas I could play with the bass right in front of the 12" speaker almost no problem. Now my question. Are there 12" speakers which can sound a bit more dry than the one I have maybe with an additional 6" driver as the FMC ones or should I just stay below the 10"?

Just what I needed to hear. Thanks! Now the impossible question to answer is whether it does way better than my PJB C4 or my Tecamp 112xs with upright 😄

thanks! And what about the difference between the two keeping upright in mind?

great that you have both the one with and without the midrange as I `d like to know how they compare on upright. Are they the ones without tweeter?

Anyone with experience using FMC cabinets with double bass?

Ok the long story then: when I play in gigs I get amp from service and I use in ear monitors so it doesn’t really matter. If I want to take my amp I am covered with my Eich rig for theater, stage if I needed it. But I took my Marcustico with me only once as generally it is not jazz I play. Now I am looking at a quality rig for jazz gigs/rehearsals. volume is not important but quality for the acoustic bass. My question is: is going to a dedicated rig (combo or head) for acoustic give me something more than my hi-fi rig? Consider I am using a preamp (where I shape completely my sound). I like to shape my sound in the pedalboard for flexibility reasons so I am not forced to take an amp

Hi all, I don`t play double bass but I play a Marcustico that has a very similar sound (link to audio file below) and I should mention I also play electric bass. I use a mix of piezo and mic through a Headway EDB2-HE. I play mostly with headphones but sometimes I have to use an amp. For that I have an Eich T-500 + pjb c4 cab or Eich 1x12 cabinet. Now I am considering buying a second amplifier head. I am wondering what everyone else is using on upright these days. Specialised amp head (Acoustic Image/EA/...) or since I use a Headway pre it is ok to use a generic bass amp head? When I mean generic I mean Aguilar/Epifani etc (i.e.: high end) I should mention that I am quite a geek and would like the best possible sound on my acoustic so.... I would like to not only know what is ok but what is ideal. 🤩 I don`t need so much power but I would like a flexible solution if possible. I guess my cabinets are ok for the task, aren`t they? Or should I go for a combo?

Hi Guys, I have a Squier Jazz Bass fretless Made in Korea (supposedly in the 80s) which does not sound bad. The truss rod got damaged and though it has been repaired it broke down again. I came to the conclusion to look for a replacement neck. What neck would you buy in my shoes? The neck should be lined fretless. The rest of my instruments are high end so I don`t want just a cheapo although we are talking about a Squier.

I ended up getting a MusicMan BH-500 as they were the same thing and the musicMan was way cheaper. I completely dig it. It is one of the best sounding amps with a precision. I currently use a EBS valve drive in front of it to fatten the sound a bit. It would be interesting to have a preamp like this to use it on other amps. The eq points sound absolutely killer. Has anyone come across something like this in a preamp form?

Someone told me it is maybe possible to rewire the transformer to accept 230V instead of 120V. Anyone knows whether this could be done on an Ampeg B25?

great thanks!

unfortunately the offer I have expires in a few hours. I guess I have to trust the seller if he answers or anyway do it once it arrives. I guess I can find instructions online. If I understood it is removing the cap and soldering the ground of the power cord to the chassis. Maybe little bit more but doable with some care

Actually since I read in the description: "This amp was recently serviced and received new power tubes, preamp tubes, new filtercaps, 3-prong cord and any caps/resistors that were out of specs." There is a fair chance that the death cap has been removed already, isn't it?

and I guess the death cap should be removed by a technician since it is dangerous to do by inexperienced folk like me?

Thanks! I am trying to find out about the "death capacitor" Found out that thomann sells this which is purposedly built for tube amps. Anyone?

Hi all, I am in the process of buying a vintage amp from the US which runs on 120V and it is a 55W all tube amp. I live in europe and so need to step down from 230V to 120V at which the amps runs to. I found this: link It is 800W so it is very conservative but I might buy later other amps from the US which need higher power. Is it ok? Is there anything else I need to look at?