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steve-bbb

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Posts posted by steve-bbb

  1. [quote name='henry norton' post='1223679' date='May 7 2011, 09:18 PM']Lookin' good. Are you sure an abrasive water jet is the way to go with your lovingly seasoned chunk of elm though? The wood would have to stay under the jet for a fair while for it to make it all the way through, which means more contact with the water. It won't 'unseason' it as such but water in any quantity is a no-no when it comes to well seasoned wood, so I would have thought a high pressure jet of it would only be worse. Couldn't you take your chunk and DXF to a place with a CNC router, or even have an MDF template laser cut then using it with a hand held router?[/quote]

    well the guys at specialised cutting have told me they cut wood and mdf all the time and it isnt a problem - i will check some samples with them first - we have a good local plastics company where i can get a plexiglass template lasercut for hand routing but also trying to search out a cAD/CNC router solution (hopefully that might be cheaper than the watercut too?!)

  2. [quote name='hillbilly deluxe' post='1221071' date='May 5 2011, 02:16 PM']One piece will look better if clear or see through finish is applied.Why cut it up only to re-join again ? Multiple piece bodies ie on a regular guitar,are usually that way as a cost efficient way of making a body blank big enough,i would think.[/quote]

    my thoughts exactly but some people prefer laminating from the point of view of strength and helping to prevent any warping or twisting which might occur with a single slab - laminating can also look good imo as you can then bookmatch and get a symmetrical pattern but might be nice to have the individual one piece look - was planning on a transluscent colour and clear lacquer - i like the idea of a bright red/orange but want to be able to see the wood grain as it is very nice piece of hardwood

    this single slab is still perfectly flat and flawless after 25 years so i dont think that warping/twisting will be an issue unless i join some band that wants to tour the rainforests

  3. so ive decided to bodge together some sort of fretless Jazz bass type thingy - i have a slab of wood for the body but need to decided the best option for body construction - i have a slab 50mm thick of elm (and yes it is v heavy) which will ideally end up about 42 ish mm thick
    the single slab is big enough for the body shape to be cut in one single piece - are there pros/cons fo doing this compared to having a central section with two side pieces glued on making a 3 piece laminate body???
    the single piece is very flat and stable and well seasoned - in fact it is still as flat as the day it was machined about 25 years ago with not a single crack in sight

    your thoughts please!

  4. thanks for all that will give me plenty to look into

    [quote name='BigRedX' post='1199506' date='Apr 14 2011, 03:17 PM']Speakon chassis connectors are considerably bigger than jack sockets. They will require a 24mm diameter hole which will make the modification non-reversible. You'll also need to check that the jack sockets on the amp aren't directly attached to one of the circuit boards and that there is sufficient clear depth available to fit a Speakon instead.[/quote]

  5. thanks for that!

    'IF' i were to mod the amp is ti a straightforward rewire to change over the 1/4 jack chassis to a speakon socket - obviously with some modification of the casing panel etc - likewise for the speaker cab

    sounds like it would be a much better option


    ps like the 'without urgency' :)


    [quote name='BigRedX' post='1199366' date='Apr 14 2011, 01:29 PM']The problem with jacks is that there is a possibility of the output from the amp being shorted when plugging/unplugging, and they are held in place simply by the spring clip on the contacts. On low-powered guitar amps this isn't too much of an issue, but on bass amps where a 200W amp is considered to be low-powered. It can be quite serious.

    Speakons are designed so there is no possibility of shorting out the amp while connecting the cables and they lock into place to avoid accidental disconnection. They are also designed to handle the higher currents of more powerful amps.

    If you are careful about how you plug in your speaker connections on both the cab and your cabs and make sure that you use good quality plugs and cables then jacks shouldn't be a problem, but Speakons are always better.

    Unless you have access to cables and connectors at bulk-buy prices and are used to wiring them up, it's far easier (and in many cases cheaper) to get [url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showuser=12"]OBBM[/url] to make them for you.[/quote]

  6. ...also when you say jacks not recommended... what reasons? sound quality, safety, or reliability etc - if speakons are much preferred then i guess the amp output could be mod'd by an electronics pro to change them from jacks if there was significant benefit i would consider the outlay

    ta






    [quote name='steve-bbb' post='1199127' date='Apr 14 2011, 10:23 AM']thanks for reply

    I got Hartke Hydrive 410 and Hartke 2500 - both are 1/4 jacks only - although with some modification i guess that is something that could be adapted on both the amp and the cab

    used to have a trace rig so this was never a problem in past but but got the oe cab at moment soon to get a second and maybe amp upgrade too[/quote]

  7. thanks for reply

    I got Hartke Hydrive 410 and Hartke 2500 - both are 1/4 jacks only - although with some modification i guess that is something that could be adapted on both the amp and the cab

    used to have a trace rig so this was never a problem in past but but got the oe cab at moment soon to get a second and maybe amp upgrade too

    [quote name='Bottle' post='1199088' date='Apr 14 2011, 09:53 AM']Couple of questions first - are you planning on using Speakons (recommended) or do you require jack-plugs (not really ideal now). The main reason is the large amount of power available in Bass amplifiers these days (1/4" jack plugs just aren't up to the job for several reasons), so for safety and reliability, I would tend to want to use the Speakon option if available. Also, you would need somewhere in the region of 4mm[sup]2[/sup] twin-core cable to make up a speaker cable capable of high power handling. Keep the cable as short as necessary - maybe a metre maximum.

    If you feel up to it, Speakon <> Speakon leads can be easy enough to make yourself if you have a few basic tools - wire strippers, sharp knife, small Pozidrive screwdriver - no soldering required. I've always made my own cables up - that way I get exactly the cable I'm after - I go to Canford Audio for the Speakons and cable, all very reasonable in quantity.

    If not, you could always drop member 'OBBM' here on BC a PM outlining your requirements - he comes highly recommended by the BC community.


    HTH
    Ian[/quote]

  8. Does anybody have any tips at all for making up speaker cables? or suitable cable supplies for the power/impedance handling etc and jacks and plugs etc do they have any bearing on sound or just physical ruggedness/durability etc
    Have made up quite a few instrument/effect patch cables but was just wondering about the pros and cons of trying to do same with speaker cables

  9. [quote name='Huntsta' post='1146719' date='Mar 2 2011, 08:20 AM']SOLD[/quote]


    bugger missed it! :)

    i had one of these when they were first released and is one of my biggest regrets ever selling it about 15 years ago so on the lookout!

    if anyone sees one let me know and i'll buy you a pint or three if it comes my way :)

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