citymariner

[quote name='chris_b' post='1278899' date='Jun 22 2011, 07:03 PM']I've seen some US players put the amp between the cabs. I guess it's to raise the top cab for monitoring purposes. All my bands are way too loud to stick a cab anywhere near ear level, so I imagine this would only work if you played quietly.

But then if you were that quiet why would you need 2 cabs?[/quote]


Haha, your process of deduction is ace!

We are loud!

I'll try it out.

[attachment=83282:rig.jpg]


Saves on the back from lifting the head on top of both cabs...

Okay, so traditionally it goes:

HEAD
CAB
CAB

However, I've recently had my head flightcased and wondered whether I could run my rig:

CAB
HEAD
CAB

It'd life my 210 higher and therefore closer to my ears for better monitoring.

Wonder if it would improve the dispersion of the sound at all?

I've seen people stack their cabs and then stick their amp behind all their gear out of the way but haven't come across my proposal.
(maybe that's for a reason...)

[quote name='Monckyman' post='1275981' date='Jun 20 2011, 03:30 PM']Most castor sets have two wheels with brakes/locks on, stops the cab wandering about.
My ashdown 410 had castors directly bolted to it, through the bottom, not too neatly either.
The ampeg 410 I now have already had bolt holes for castors so I just bolted some on using them. Two have brakes on.
It does mean the bottom two drivers have to come out.
Alternatively.. make a wheel board that fits EXACTLY underneath your cab,use the proper Tees bolt fittings and once bolted on use an angle grinder to cut the bolts flush. Cut out the corners where the plastic corner protectors on your cab will go so it sits directly on the ply with no gap.
Paint it black and use a couple of heavy duty velcro strips to keep it there.
Bit more work but...
No holes in your boutique box innit?
If you sell the cab, keep the board, will prob fit most 410s whatever.
MM[/quote]

That's why I built the board the width I did so it mimics the footprint of the cab. I tried it out at rehearsal the other night. As soon as I had moved my gear everyone else used it to move theirs!

I've pruned. Feel much lighter- time for a take out!

Hey all,

Up for sale is a BRAND NEW IN BOX, never used, Ashdown footwitch.

All paper work etc

(For some reasons I've ended up with two so ones on my board and this one is just sitting around)

It is the quad switch example that can switch...

- Valve Drive
- EQ
- Compression
- Sub Octave

...on your ABM EVOIII and Klystron head/ combo.

It comes in a heavy duty metal construction with a 4m HD lead.

Link:

[url="http://shop.ashdownmusic.com/product.php?pi=2428"]Ashdown Link[/url]

It's gonna cost around £7 to deliver for recorded delivery, so...

Is it good for anyone for £20 (£6 saving on RRP)

I can take pics if you want.

Send me a PM if you are interested.

I'll accept paypal/ cheque and will ship once payment has cleared.

Josh

[quote name='munkonthehill' post='1269407' date='Jun 14 2011, 11:15 PM']Oh dear, do you like to tell folk how much money you earn and how much your house is worth too

I have an aunty you should talk to.[/quote]


Don't you know, more you spend the better you are...

I only own one bass.

It does worry me at gigs if I was to break a string or something was to happen though.

Having said that owning several basses is one thing, how many do people take to a gig?

If you own more than one do you take take more than one?

[quote name='petetexas' post='1266497' date='Jun 12 2011, 07:38 PM']Hi,

Thanks , a great site

Pete[/quote]

Great because everything is under one roof but I do think they are expensive. I've sourced stuff from screwfix etc. to get things like castors cheaper.

Found these too:

[url="http://www.terralec.co.uk/hardware/145_0c.html?gclid=CPH-k5eQsakCFcod4QodtGnTLQ"]http://www.terralec.co.uk/hardware/145_0c....CFcod4QodtGnTLQ[/url]

How to guide:

[url="http://fuzzcraft.com/flightcasediy.html"]http://fuzzcraft.com/flightcasediy.html[/url]

Pre-made:

[url="http://www.swanflight.com/guitarist-flightcases/pedal-board-flightcases.html"]http://www.swanflight.com/guitarist-flight...lightcases.html[/url]

[quote name='Doddy' post='1266522' date='Jun 12 2011, 07:57 PM']A Precision Bass with a pick will get you in the area of that sound. It's not really an
effects thing.[/quote]

Agreed, it's more about tweaking the EQ and playing style than pressing a stompbox.

Hoppus tends to boost the highs, bridge pickup and plastic pick.

[quote name='Johnston' post='1264804' date='Jun 11 2011, 12:08 PM'][attachment=82348:2011_06_...11.51.38.jpg]

Family shot right down the the kids Ukes[/quote]

Great action shot of the Jackson diving off the sofa - must be in its genes!

[attachment=82482:IMG_0647.jpg]

Here is my rig had it about a month now and gigged and rehearsed it. I love it!

My lead guitarist keeps telling me to go louder and louder!

[url="http://www.flightcasehardware.co.uk/"]http://www.flightcasehardware.co.uk/[/url]

[quote name='deej' post='1256175' date='Jun 4 2011, 07:46 AM']I think Brian Cook uses an SKB pedalboard. Boss also do a powered pedalboard too but theres only space for about 5-6 pedals.[/quote]

The BCB-60 can fir more than 6 if you are willing to have some in a different orientation.

[attachment=82467:IMG_0381.jpg]

Good idea - I already had these bungees kicking around it is surprisingly solid when moving it around by holding on to the cabs.

Varnish is a good idea also - got tons of that kicking around!

I'll stick some coats on Tuesday after rehearsal on Monday - after all, it may break tomorrow when I try it out in anger!

[quote name='Monckyman' post='1265587' date='Jun 12 2011, 12:13 AM']Looking good, but are you confident the chipboard will survive moisture?[/quote]

I did think this and wondered how I could solve it.

Turns out my dad has some 'rubber paint' at home I reckon if I wack that on the bottom and along the sides then it should seal the wood.

Amps I've had in the past have had chipboard construction (MAG ashdowns for example) and they have survived a bit of drizzle when they have been dinged etc.

I was also thinking about how wet it could get - the gear will be moved from car to venue and it will only be wheels causing any spray. It'll be stored inside allowing it dry out.

If it lasts a year then I can just replace it - it costs me £20 in materials (the rest I had already).

I've finished the board!

Specs:

630mm x 710mm
I've laminated 12mm chipboard with MDF (glued and screwed)
Attached castors by bolting through the wood (all bolts recessed)

[attachment=82376:IMG_0630.jpg]
[attachment=82380:IMG_0633.jpg]

Added Aluminium trim to protect the wood underneath from bumps
[attachment=82382:IMG_0636.jpg]

Added eyelets to attach bungee cord to stop movement of equipment during transport
I have moved these to the underside, I had orignally put them at the sides and they just weren't strong enough there
[attachment=82381:IMG_0637.jpg]

Cut a whole for cables and gaffered up the area where the rig will be during a gig
[attachment=82378:IMG_0644.jpg]
[attachment=82379:IMG_0646.jpg]

Rig packed up and setup
[attachment=82377:IMG_0639.jpg]
[attachment=82384:IMG_0642.jpg]

Thoroughly enjoyed making it and I will add that the cabs will be in padded cases - the amp will be flight cased.

[quote name='deepbass5' post='1263430' date='Jun 9 2011, 11:14 PM']I have found getting your cabs off the stage a good thing. You then have a constant sound to work with. We all know there are good and bad sounding stages some really make you sound good others can be awful then you are left trying to sort stage coupling and room acoustics out with you Amps EQ. They could need opposite settings. Plus I do a lot of Hotels on Carpet.

My Trolley was made out of 3/4" Hardwood Ply I bought a sheet by mistake Bloody heavy and expensive, But better that than go the other way do not get Shuttering ply left around building sites, it will break up. I was very careful to round all the edges and take the corners off and file everything down, a spot of varnish wouldn't go a miss. [b]The reason the last thing you need is a splinter just before you go on stage. [/b]

There are so many advantages. You can run cables under them, Mike and music stand legs can be position under them, and you can spin them round to get to the back of your cab in a hurry. Often set up the PA amps and mixer on one for this reason. Pile amps, monitors and bags on to make fewer trips to the van after the gig.[/quote]

Well I've bought some wood. They didn't have any thick ply so I'm going to laminate chipboard with two sheets of exterior grade ply.

I've also got some aluminimum edging to cover all the edges (just need to keep my calm when cutting the mortice joints)

Also got some hooks (2 each side) that bungees can go over.

I do think I've gone a bit crazy - I've taken advantage of Focus' closing down sale and got a new drill etc. so the money spent exceeds what these offer:

[url="http://www.flightcasefactory.co.uk/index.php?cPath=220&osCsid=27ecdf20ba1b233beb72fc7f579bcd44"]http://www.flightcasefactory.co.uk/index.p...b72fc7f579bcd44[/url]

If I'd noticed them I would have got one of them - I've turned in to a convenience man since working 60hour weeks!

Go secondhand.

Do the usual checks and there in no reason you can't pick an American Special up for the price of Mexican Standard new.

Your luthier should support you if you ask him what to look for.

Thanks for the replies.

I've just been moving the cabs around and I think I will be better keeping the centre of gravity low and have the cabs (that are the same size) side by side. This gives me an area of 700mm x 700mm. The area and low centre of gravity in this setup will allow my head to fit on down one side (across both cabs) and my pedalboard and cable box on the other. I think I'll attach some bungee anchor points (2 on each side) so i can secure everything width/ length ways.

I have the castors and spare carpet so it's just a case of getting some wood cut 700mm x 700mm and getting the bungees and bungee anchor points.

What thickness wood do you recommend for ~150kgs of weight?

[quote name='deepbass5' post='1261926' date='Jun 8 2011, 09:40 PM']Make a Trolley board

Best thing i ever did about 10 years ago. A good bit of 3/4" ply you can buy good wheels from the larger BQ stores that take the coach bolts. Larger Dia wheels the better for rough ground

This has not only saved my back but also doubles as a cab platform during the gig. I now get a consistant sound wherever i am, solved all the coupling issues and hotel carpets that suck your sound away.

Thats the main advantage, under your stack whilst playing, I also carry another truck with fold down handle, them blue grey pressed steel things from Makro for heavier amps n things. [/quote]

Could I be cheeky and ask for pics....

TIA

Hmm the wheel board might just be the ticket.

I can custom make it to the size of my cabs and I already have 4 heavy duty casters stuck to the combo I'm not using.

I've seen some of those flatbed trolleys but they are hefty in the dollar stakes!

Ideally I'd be able to stack my 210 + 115 + few other bits.

Think I might get on the drawing board ( I do know a chippy or does small projects) I might be able to add a collapsable handle section that I could trap small stuff behind and bungee with the front section covered in non slip to stick the cabs on.

It's the simple things most of the time...

Hey all,

I've got some new Neo cabs and although they are light weight they are still bulky and I want to reduce the trips to the car.

Now, with my old rig I bolted heavy duty casters onto the bottom of the combo and rested the extension cab on top.

There is NO WAY i'm sticking casters into these quality cabs.

So, what do you use to help move you gear around?

Have you any suggestions of products that you've seen used, read about in a magazine or seen others use?

Just like to say thanks to all the posts.

I've decided to go down the flight case route and have opted for a live-in case.

Reasons:

I want maximum protection for gear and having the money to go down any route as helped me achieve this
Weight - ok i've had added a few kgs BUT i've ensured i've selecged polycarb sides rather than thick ply.
accessibility and space - live in means that I don't have to worry about where to put the lid I can slide two thin sides next to my amp no probs
People who handle my gear - we all chip in to move gear. I go through doors like a snail to stop catching what i'm holding - others are not so careful.

My cabs are going to have roqsolid covers with the speaker pouch added.

Welcome Steve!

[quote name='Mog' post='1249145' date='May 29 2011, 01:39 PM']Do you know any Chippies? The materials needed to build a flightcase should only set you back around £40-50 if you ask for offcuts in your local hardware. Just get the dimensions you need and have someone build it for you. The aluminium guards and handle are easy enough to do yourself.
Going down this route means you can build a case with rack features, ie. access to the speaker and power outputs through a hinged rear panel and a removable front panel.[/quote]


I have considered this. I'm pretty handy with bits of tree but I want to keep the weight down. The FC's I've been looking at have those toughened plastic sides and all the aluminium trimmings/ foam innners keeping the weight down and also supplying a guarantee on workmanship etc.

Those butterfly catches and alu trim don't come that cheap either.