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Posts posted by Jakester
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That’s right, I’ve replied to your message.
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Oh yeah, maybe not. Unless perhaps OP got a double-stop one (I had one that would do both drop-D and C); that might do it.
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30 minutes ago, Burns-bass said:
Is the Stagg 34” scale?
I don't think it is as I used 'real' DB strings on mine when I had it.
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Do you have any content blockers on your router/ISP? We set up a child portal on ours and it was blocking all sorts (including Google Classroom) that it shouldn't; even though stuff was whitelisted, it still kept doing it. Ended up binning it.
Other option is to check your DNS servers - try setting them to 8.8.8.8, 8.8.4.4, or 1.1.1.1 - if that works, it could be an issue with your router or your ISP's DNS configuration.
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22 minutes ago, Steve_M said:
Any of you lovely souls have an easy & elegant solution, before I go to the model shop for a fine brush and some white enamel paint?
Whisper it, this is what I've done in the past - using chalk paint (which washes/wipes off) or light acrylic paint (Games Workshop paints my son had).
For a neat finish, you might want to use a stencil or tape to get really straight lines, but a quick bosh with a thin brush works too. You could even use luminous paint if you wanted.
If you want something more permanent, and it's not a bound neck (assuming not as you mention the lines) you could partially cut out some of the fret lines on the fretboard and insert some brighter material and sand it back; fairly drastic though!
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Ah, you got the special version that describes my playing!
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Argh, if you could post (or I was closer!) I’d have this!
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9 hours ago, asingardenof said:
Our guy has a tendency to just throw his in the boot of his car with no case and then leave it there. He's done a firmware update recently which has solved the issue of his pitchbender messing up, but I suspect it's on its way out. He also has a tendency to just throw cables into a satchel willy nilly, and every time he opens it up it makes me twitchy.
I used to gig with a guy who did exactly the same (maybe it’s the same guy!). In colder months his keyboard would always fritz out because of the condensation caused by bringing it from a cold car into a warm venue. -
40 minutes ago, Huge Hands said:
Erm....sounds a bit of a fiddly bodge for such a lot of money. I would also be concerned as I currently use a Tonebone Bassbone to switch and for the EUB I have the input gain switch for piezo levels selected - I imagine this might not support this and I would need a preamp.....
I will keep thinking on it - thanks for the info!
Well, it's fiddly in the sense that you need to understand how it works; but once you do it (usually!) works.
I had a Tonebone, but found because it was cut only, and at the levels needed to equalise the DB and EB, it reduced the signal going to the amp too much.
You can select input impedance for acoustic instruments on the Stomp if you like. I don't use a DB preamp (ATM - that's going to change) but it is a Realist pickup which as I understand outputs a 'usual' level signal.
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8 hours ago, Huge Hands said:
At @Jakester - how are you doing the switching between DB and guitar? Are you able to use the L and R inputs as two completely different sources?
I don't own a Stomp, but have looked at them before, but couldn't really justify the money. I have a guitar/EUB setup. I didn't realise they could do this - if so I might rethink!
Yep, EB in L and DB in R, and with a pan block at the start of the input to hard L or R and assigned to one of the foot switches allows an A/B switch.
It can be a bit temperamental though - I’m sure I’ve set it and saved it so L is the starting input on each patch, but sometimes it will start on R, which is confusing.
It does limit the available blocks and if you’re doing a patch where you’re not intending to use the DB (such as a synth) you have to remember to add a pan block, otherwise you get horrendous feedback from the open DB. Ask me how I know!
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23 hours ago, mikegatward said:
Did you find the root cause of the Stomp failure ?
And, wouldn'tcha know it, reassembled the pedalboard back home and presto, no problems at all. Very strange.
It has reminded me of the risk of having a single potential catastrophic point of failure in the signal chain though, so I think I'm going to be introducing a bit of redundancy going forward, at the risk of going back to a larger pedalboard (which is what I was trying to avoid in the first place!!)
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23 minutes ago, Staggering on said:
Looks like a lot of fun, I'd love a gig like that.😊👏
It really is! 😁15 minutes ago, Beedster said:In my experience when equipment does fail it's rarely in the comfort of a home practice
Yep, strange it’s been fine on other gigs and rehearsals though!
4 minutes ago, mikegatward said:Did you find the root cause of the Stomp failure ?
Not yet, just got home and can’t face it! Will check it out tomorrow.
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Just got back from a fun gig, made somewhat scary by my pedalboard simply giving up the ghost moments before we started!
For this particular gig, I use both electric and upright, and I'd recently rationalised my pedals down to a HX Stomp and drive pedal, with an always on tuner and a MIDI pedal to change presets on the Stomp.
It's worked fine since I had that setup, the only previous hiccup being the power doubler cable worked its way almost imperceptibly out of the connection, giving some horrible noises. Once pushed back in though, all good!
Used absolutely fine last weekend with no issues. Get on stage in a very rushed setup (15 mins to set up a 45-piece orchestra!) only to find no sound. Quick diagnostics suggest it's the pedals (direct into amp works); and for some reason, it's the Stomp.
Ended up bypassing it completely and going direct into the amp; interesting swapping between DB and electric that way! One tune which called for swap mid-tune just had to be played electric.
The other issue was when the first tune started I realised I hadn't actually tuned up on stage, so had to mute the amp, unplug, reroute into the always on tuner, tune, and then plug back into the amp before the bass solo part!
Bit of a faff is understating it. Also meant no time to really EQ as it was all done on the Stomp, so DB was on edge of feeding back (because no HPF) and electric sounded very harsh until I'd tamed it later on.
Still, blasted through the gig and got good feedback from the organisers, so can't say fairer than that!
Someone's potato-phone cam footage:
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The orchestra I play with, Orchestra of Everything, is playing the Main Stage at the Bradford Roots festival at Wiltshire Music Centre tomorrow at 1.15pm:
https://www.wiltshiremusic.org.uk/event/bradford-roots-festival-2025/
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22 hours ago, Chienmortbb said:
Agreed and if Airbus/Boeing/Lockheed made speaker chassis they would be carbon fibre. I also agree that 7 years is not unreasonable for a speaker although many will go on decades longer.
If Boeing made speaker chassis the cone would fall out and they would spontaneously catch fire....
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2 hours ago, PinkMohawk said:
Damn, I've had enough of that from my poorly painted bass haha. Have you had that issue with the vinegar/steel wool solution?
As for the 'properness' I'm not sure, it's a kit bass that I didn't pay a whole lot for, so I wouldn't be so sure. It's relatively dark for non-Brazilian rosewood already, but like I said, I'm looking for as close to that perfect ebony black as I can get it. In terms of strength for the vinegar/steel wool, is it just a matter of feeding as much steel wool into the vinegar as you can to make it stronger?
I’ve not tried the vinegar/steel wool thing, sorry. -
On 13/01/2025 at 15:53, PinkMohawk said:
That leather dye result looks the business, a few coats of it looks like it'll get as dark as I'm looking for.
I should say I had a fingerboard which someone else had dyed with leather dye, and whilst it looked great, under 'vigorous' playing the dye tended to leach out over your fingers, staining them black.
It is possible to impregnate wood with epoxy resin (often used to stabilise softer woods). You need a vacuum chamber or bag etc and the proper type of resin though, and not sure how it would work on a harder wood like rosewood. (Is it 'proper' rosewood?)
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6 minutes ago, WalMan said:
…or get an sfx Microthumpinator and put it last in line either on your board or sat on top of the amp as last link so you save a slot on the Stomp or don’t need to remember to add to every patch?
Thanks - had one, it's not needed on the Stomp as you can use a HPF on the global EQ (i.e. affects everything).
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2 minutes ago, Downunderwonder said:
You need a HPF. Possibly that is all you need..
Takjng out the flabby frequencies leaves power and power handling for Aftrica, to get quite a lot louder.
Hmm, I do have one setup on my Stomp but I *think* the occasion I’m thinking of I wasn’t using it… will investigate because I usually use one.
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3 hours ago, Downunderwonder said:
For me that would be a nobrainer, to keep the modularity.
Hm, not quite a nobrainer for me - I do like the One10 size, but carrying 3 often might be more of a pain than just one larger cab, plus it does limit me to only using that one head (my other/spare head doesn’t do 2ohm) so if it goes pop, I couldn’t just use any other head.
(I find I tend to have to use two most of the time anyway as when I use one I get worried about the visible speaker excursion!)
That said, it’s cheaper to get another One10 than the Three10, so that might swing it!
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I've used Reaper and Logic Pro.
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On 16/12/2024 at 17:06, chris_b said:
Get a Two10 and a One10 instead. Or maybe, 3 One10's.
I have to say, I'm leaning towards a third One10 for my setup.
I love the two One10s but in (very) loud environments they get a bit overwhelmed, so with an amp that will go down to 2 ohms I can't decide between a third One10 (with a tweeter - my other two don't) or a Three10 and flog the One10s....
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Conversely I've had a Saffire and a Scarlett, and both worked fine out of the box for me.
It's not always the manufacturer's fault....
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I use a Boss WL20 and have occasionally used it with the DB fine.
Because it's so light it could just 'hang' from the jack with no issue, and I've never had a problem with it since I've started using it. It's on your old Realist pickup which the jack is looped through the tailpiece so is sort of held parallel to it (no banging, knocking etc) - though I imagine if you're fairly vigorous it might wobble around a bi.
Why so few male to male XLR cables?
in Accessories and Misc
Posted
Well, I'd have thought it's because (not sure whether that developed by design or convention) the XLR pins tend to 'point' the way the signal is going - so something with male pins (such as a mic) 'points' the signal into something that receives the signal (female sockets).
So something supposed to carry signal but having a female output is fairly rare I'd have thought as it would go against convention.
Are you sure your mixer has female outputs?
This suggests the MG06X has male outputs...