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lowlandtrees

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Posts posted by lowlandtrees

  1. 23 hours ago, ikay said:

    The G and E poles should be flush and D and A poles should be slightly raised. Pic of my USA SUB below. These are great basses. The pickup and 2-band EQ on the SUB is the same as a USA Stingray.

    672601439_MMSUBUSA.thumb.jpg.e90641db6f19733b1b3e82b744f2e4d1.jpg

    Do you know if the poles are adjustable.  One of the poles on my A string has dropped.below the pup cover

  2. I’ll go get ma sledge hammer.....I just measured the gap and it is around 5mm to the casing which is about right (4.8mm). The poles seem very uneven though. I have heard that the electronics on these US SUBs are very similar to the more expensive models. I love the sound of the guitar although the neck could be better.

  3. Sorry if this this is double post. I thought there was an existing thread(can’t find it). I have an MM SUB...bought from a BCer. 
    I think that the poles on the pup have shifted. Does anyone know if it is possible to adjust them. I really like the instrument but there appears to be an unevenness (is that a word) about the tone quality and volume across the fretboard. The E is slightly higher in volume and I am aware that the G is a problem on many of these instruments.  Using Elixir strings. 

  4. 1 minute ago, hooky_lowdown said:

    Without seeing pictures to judge condition it's difficult to give a comprehensive reply regarding price. But it's in the right ball park for a 70s fender, maybe a little low, but without pics... 

    If it's a player's bass then after market add-ons won't affect price too much. If it's a collector's bass, mint condition etc then it absolutely will.

    Don’t have pics but seemed to my untrained eye in pretty good condition. I am looking at it because I want an instrument to play, not as as an investment but obviously don’t want it to lose value. Originally I was going for a USA deluxe (Swiss army knife syndrome) but after playing one I decided that my MM SUB sounded better so I am keeping that and going for a classic pBass.

  5. Was looking at a ‘76 USA precision. The owner said that a jazz pup had been fitted ‘after market’ I think was the expression he used. It was very reasonably priced at £1400. Would altering the instrument in this way affect the value or is this the correct price....I have seen them at a higher price on BC. I think that this was the build era that was a bit dubious in the Fender factory? The bass sounded great btw and if I can get the cash together I may buy it if it’s still unsold.

  6. I have a Hawkes Parnormo from 1901. It has a great tone, loud and deep but for an amateur like me virtually unplayable because of the action. It may have been set up like this but I have seen pics of similar instruments with ‘normal’ action. I am thinking of addressing this...had a new jazz fingerboard put on my other (German) bass and it improved it ten fold.

    My concern is a bit Shallow Hal! If I change the bass radically will it lower the monetary value of the instrument. I don’t intend to change the fingerboard as such...possibly change the bridge (If the sound quality can remain unaffected) or maybe put a wedge under the fb. I have a very good luthier called Bill Kelday who will do a good job but I don’t think that he could comment on the resale value....btw I have nil intention of selling....just something in the back of my mind

  7. Reviving this thread to report on my purchase. We did a very nice tour of Amsterdam plus additional gig in Newcastle....on public transport from Scotland. I ended up buying a Barefaced one10 after recommendations from BCers. It was an excellent choice. Very light and manageable to carry....we trammed/bussed/walked miles and miles without effort. We put an el bass pedal through the cab at the same time through my EA doubler. It easily filled large pub venues. Sound quality and projection excellent although I wouldn’t put it up against a loud drummer...we used a cajon/bass pedal. Highly recommended 

  8. 20 hours ago, neilp said:

    There is a significant sum to be spent there - well into 4 figures, maybe even 5, depending on the condition of the bits we can't see (neck, back, rest of the ribs, blocks etc). It might have value, but equally it might be a Bohemian factory bass on an Italian model - not an English shape, not a Hawkes in my opinion. Risky purchase with no provenance

    Yes.. I suspect this myself...I never had purchase interest (got an old Hawkes)...it looks like a quality instrument that has been severely treated. I think the family was hoping it was valuable....don’t really want to be the one to break the news but someone should 

  9. This is a friends bass. His dad left him the instrument. I have asked if I can see it but he seems a bit guarded and doesn’t seem to want to answer the obvious questions that I have asked...internal /external markings etc so I have let it go. I am interested to know a bit more about it. It looks like it needs some serious repairs.

    image.thumb.jpeg.36bc62687dd1bb114b186ea086b4c9e8.jpeg28E797C0-3D51-4F4F-974C-CB2C0D79A219.thumb.jpeg.9cc595461a03a99a183803e5cd24d5db.jpeg

     

  10. I would say that one to one with a teacher twice a month for at least 6 months is absolutely crucial ...whatever bow you choose...my teacher is a french bower teaching me German...only cos the bass I bought came with a German and I didn’t know any better ... I think that he would have preferred to teach me french but I had already started teaching myself (bit stupid but I couldn’t wait and couldn’t find a teacher)

  11. I suspect my MM SUB needs a set up but would putting a capo on first or second fret throw out intonation? I play in a couple/3 of bands and one of them down-tunes a semi tone. We play one night then the following night the other band then two days later the other band etc...so being a lazy bugger I just use a capo...not to gig ...just practice...but I have discovered that with the capo on, intonation is affected....or could I possibly need a set up?

  12. 32 minutes ago, visog said:

    So minor pedantic point is that you posted in 'Bass Guitars' which may not get you the best response compared with 'General' or 'Technique' forums.

    So admin out of the way, go tell your guitar player to f**k off. As long as you play the music, technique is secondary. And your technique whilst uncommon, is not unusual and I suggest you seek out the work of Damien Erskine to see how far you can take it. He's written a whole book on it called, 'Right-hand Drive' and he incorporates fingers 1 & 2 together with the thumb to get some serious dynamics and expression down. Some of his lines are phenomenal.

    Yes his technique is a combo of both..very relaxed as well

  13. 10 minutes ago, hooky_lowdown said:

    Play however you feel comfortable, I used to play with fingers but exclusively play with my thumb or pick now. The thumb gives a fatter sound over fingers all day long.

    I think that I am too far down to re program comfortably anyway...was just wondering if other people play like this. 

  14. I have been playing for 12 ish years. I have tried two finger plucking but always come back to thumb and fore finger and am comfortable playing like this and uncomfortable plucking with two finger. I realise that you get a slightly fatter sound with fingers only but I like the percussive feel of thumb/forefinger. I do sometimes play with two fingers but struggle on the E string.

    Anyway I have joined another band and the guitarist (very accomplished) is ‘encouraging ‘ me to use two fingers. I know that most players use fingers but was wondering if anyone else plays (almost) exclusively with thumb/forefinger(other than slapping)? Should I see this as a problem and fix it?

  15. 1 hour ago, Dan Dare said:

    The Briefcase is a moderate output (100w into 4 ohms) but high quality combo for small/acoustic gigs and practice.The reason you cannot use an extension speaker without disconnecting the internal ones is that it cannot run into lower impedances than that provided by the on board speakers. There are limits to what it will drive with the power it has on tap, too. You will need a power amp in addition to your extra cabinet(s) if you want to do that. I had the Suitcase, which was similar - 150w into 4 ohms and four, rather than two on board speakers. Same idea, just a little louder.

    Thanks for replying. What about routing it through a PA and using it as a monitor...would this be possible?

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