Basstroker Posted April 11, 2013 Share Posted April 11, 2013 Hi! I just bought a very nice carved 4/4 double bass in top condition for 354,-- € - exept: the neck is broken . Now I want to remove the fingerboard to screw the neck to the heel after fixing it with hide glue. I tried everything with great patience: Heat on the radiator (80° C), hot steam, electric iron, alcohol - nothing works, I can't get a little gap between neck and fingerboard, even at the beginning, to continue the work like here: [url="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QhAZSiRfDB4&nofeather=True"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QhAZSiRfDB4&nofeather=True[/url] . And I don't want to ruin the ebony fingerboard and/or the maple neck. Has anyone any idea? Best, Thomas Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ubassman Posted April 11, 2013 Share Posted April 11, 2013 Do you have a photo of the damaged joint? These sorts of repairs with screws seldom cure the problem and many luthiers would take a long peer at you down over the top of their glasses at the very suggestion ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Basstroker Posted April 11, 2013 Author Share Posted April 11, 2013 (edited) Thank You for Your answer. I'm unable to take pictures at the moment, but it looks very, very similar to that picture: [url="http://basschat.co.uk/uploads/monthly_07_2010/post-4250-1280435971.jpg"]http://basschat.co.u...-1280435971.jpg[/url] . And I don't want to "repair" it that way: [url="http://www.kontrabassblog.ch/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/Schrauben_Griffb.jpg"]http://www.kontrabas...uben_Griffb.jpg[/url] . As a picture frame maker I'm used to work carefully with wood. Best, Thomas Edited April 11, 2013 by Basstroker Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ubassman Posted April 11, 2013 Share Posted April 11, 2013 Have you tried vinegar and warm water to loosen the fingerboard glue - you can usually get going at the heel end? You could go for it, by screwing and gluing, but ...if its like that in the photo you only have one long term option - its time for a new neck ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Basstroker Posted April 11, 2013 Author Share Posted April 11, 2013 (edited) No, I didn't try vinegar yet, thank You for this hint. I want to use water as few as possible to avoid moisture expansion of the neck's maple wood. I know, it's not the traditional way to repair a neck crack, but I want to try it and - if it works - save a lot of money. On the other side I don't want to demage anything to enable a - maybe - later professional repair. Edited April 11, 2013 by Basstroker Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TPJ Posted April 11, 2013 Share Posted April 11, 2013 Is the break a clean one? If so, you should be able to glue the whole thing back on, ensuring it's lined up correctly when you clamp it. Taking the FB off is more trouble that it's worth. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Basstroker Posted April 11, 2013 Author Share Posted April 11, 2013 Yes, the break is a very clean one, there are absolutely no chips. I think the bass neck has sufferd one very heavy stroke. I also thought about only to use hide glue (I'm used to work with it) to fix the neck - but I'm not shure. Maybe I'll try this. I will not only use clamps but also a tension belt all around the bass from the bottom around the scroll to get maximum contact also in the direction of the top. - Thank you for all the answers and excuse my bad English. Best, Thomas Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ubassman Posted April 11, 2013 Share Posted April 11, 2013 I wouldnt bother with hide glue for this specific task - its used in insturment making and repairs because its reversible such that it will soften when you heat it up / moisten it - I think that you will want this particulary repair to be as unreseversible as possible !! (only have to imagine the bass left in a sunny window, or near a radiator, or indeed taken outdoors on a humid day ) . I have to say , in my experience, glueing if it works at all, will be only a very temporary fix - theres just too much leverage which is why the neck is fitted with deep ( 8 - 9 inch ) dovetailed joint into the top block and the neck is all one piece. If you need to replace the entire neck as I think you inevitably will , then it really doesnt matter what you glue you use, so find the strongest wood glue you can . Take care if you are going to screw into the heel - you dont want to go in at an angle or you will damage the dovetail joint and potentially then need a new top block too - good luck with it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Basstroker Posted April 11, 2013 Author Share Posted April 11, 2013 Interesting thoughts but I think hide glue is a really very strong and lasting glue for wood in normal conditions (moisture, temperature). If a luthier makes a graft e.g., he also uses hide glue. And this is a repair at the neck which also should be unreversible. - But I think I'll call now my luthier... Best, Thomas Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Basstroker Posted April 11, 2013 Author Share Posted April 11, 2013 I just called my luthier: Removing fingerboard = 50,-- € (cheap!) Screws are absolutely necessary. Best, Thomas Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TPJ Posted April 11, 2013 Share Posted April 11, 2013 [quote name='ubassman' timestamp='1365687218' post='2042911'] [/quote] I thought this looked familiar...that's the bass I took to pieces trying to create a removable neck DB. I recognise that green wall in the back ground! That was a right **** getting that neck off even with heat and warm water. The poor bass had a terminal scroll break so I thought I'd take it all apart. the table came off no probs but that neck was a bear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ubassman Posted April 11, 2013 Share Posted April 11, 2013 They can be really tough to get out of the top block can't they !! ...worst one I have had to do recently was removing a neck that had been dowelled through the ribs screwed at the heel which had all completely cracked the side walls of the neck block dovetail and which had then been injected with PVA and superglue as a way of fixing it all ! I was lucky to get the whole thing out without damaging the ribs. Had to reconstruct the top block with filler so that I could use it as a template for a new one! How did your removable neck work out? - looks like an Italian Bass? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TPJ Posted April 11, 2013 Share Posted April 11, 2013 [quote name='ubassman' timestamp='1365695231' post='2043101'] How did your removable neck work out? - looks like an Italian Bass? [/quote] It was Hungarian and the sides and back delaminated from being in the cellar too long . To be fair it was in a right state when I got it. Carved top was split and the seams were starting to pop off everywhere, I just helped it along. I never got around to fixing it all before it fell to pieces. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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