Bobby K

[quote name='Ou7shined' post='958343' date='Sep 16 2010, 02:16 PM']Haha classic. [/quote]

After playing this bass for a few days, I'm pretty certain that the shielding job has muddied the sound a little. There is a definite loss of [i]crispness[/i] in the sound. Is this possible, or is it more likely that I've damaged something?

Very frustrating. I'm now getting the words [i]"if it ain't broke don't fix it!"[/i] going round my head. This bass was never very noisy to begin with; just at certain gigs with dodgy lights etc, there would be noise. So just thought shielding it wouldn't do any harm. Not so sure I should've bothered now

[quote name='Dave Vader' post='964136' date='Sep 22 2010, 09:36 AM']CTS pots do have wider shafts than cheaper alternatives, go to WD music website, they have loads of knobs that will fit high quality pots.
I drilled out the middle of a knob for a CTS pot on a strat once, it now spins uselessly round the shaft, doh!

(edited cos I can't spell strat)[/quote]

Yeah, it seems the shafts on the pots I took out are Jap with metric sizes, whereas the CTS ones are imperial sizes.

I had considered drilling my existing ones but don't think I'll bother. Will have a look at WD, cheers Dave.

As for the ebay kit, yeah, great stuff and arrived pretty damn quick. I'm gonna buy the kit again soon for when I upgrade my Squier CV P bass's electronics

[quote name='gary mac' post='964038' date='Sep 22 2010, 05:34 AM']That's a bummer, guess you needed the split shaft pots then.

So I suppose you must now need the type of knobs that utilise a grub screw.

Don't think I'm the right person to offer advice though, I've just installed new pups in my daughters jazz and now getting problems with the pots [/quote]

Well, my old pots used a screw too; but they were split shaft pots and those shafts were much narrower. I feel like these are definitely an upgrade though, so I'm happy. Just need some knobs to fit the new girth

Ok, so I worked out the Orange drop thing and have finished the job.

All is well, apart from the fact that the knurled chrome knobs that I had on the old pots don't fit on these new CTS solid
shafts

The CTS are much wider.

Can anyone suggest some replacements that will fit these shafts? I was of the opinion that all shafts were the same thickness but I've been proved wrong, so new knobs needed!

[quote name='Bobby K' post='963309' date='Sep 21 2010, 01:56 PM']Yes, a nicely soldered joint is most pleasing. A knackered pot, through overheating, is a ball ache!!! As I found out recently, hence the new kit [/quote]

One more question guys. Looking at the Orange Drop from the side which has the writing on, which leg goes to ground (back of pot), left or right?

[quote name='King Tut' post='963702' date='Sep 21 2010, 07:54 PM']The switch is active/passive and I think the dual concentric knob is bass cut and boost (big wheel) treble cut and boost (little wheel).[/quote]

King Tut is correct. I have one of these; converted it to a fretless a few years back. Still love it after all these years

[quote name='The Bass Doc' post='963291' date='Sep 21 2010, 01:39 PM']That's just what most folks would do.

Enjoy the soldering - I sometimes solder things just for the therapy it provides.[/quote]

Yes, a nicely soldered joint is most pleasing. A knackered pot, through overheating, is a ball ache!!! As I found out recently, hence the new kit

[quote name='The Bass Doc' post='963276' date='Sep 21 2010, 01:32 PM']They will be the same - it's how you wire them that makes the difference.[/quote]

Ahh, I see. Cheers Doc.

I'm just gonna be following the standard P bass wiring diagram from Fender, if that matters...

Ok guys, apologies in advance for the complete rewire noob that I am :blush:

I've just purchased a rewiring kit for my P bass, as seen here:

[url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=270635847621&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT#ht_1070wt_930"]http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...T#ht_1070wt_930[/url]

The kit contains (from what I can see) two identical CTS pots, for tone and volume. Should they be the same, or should they be markedly different? Or does it not matter which one I use for tone and vice versa....?


Cheers

[quote name='Ou7shined' post='958326' date='Sep 16 2010, 02:05 PM']Sounds like a dodgy connection, you've got a +ve going to earth somewhere. Trace the route from your hot line from your pup all the way up to and including the jack socket. Luckily the wiring on a P is pretty simple.[/quote]

Cheers mate, but it was a false alarm

I was testing the bass through a guitar amp which unknown to me was cranked up to max volume!!

All is normal now the amp has been adjusted, sorry for the panic

I finished the shielding job. Managed to sort out some braided wire to go through the hole. Soldered it all neatly to the copper. Passed the pickup wires through, resoldered to the pots etc and put the bass back together. Seems to be fine.

Thanks to all who gave their advice

[quote name='Count Bassy' post='957222' date='Sep 15 2010, 02:24 PM']Re the braiding - yes use some braiding out of a good cable ('Woven' rather than wrapped around) - something out of a good microphone cabel etc would be good. After removing the braiding you'll find that it will narrow down as you stretch it, so you can poke it through the hole (depends how big the hole is), and then compress it end to end again to make it expand width ways again, against the sides of the hole. Then splay out the ends and solder to the copper foil. It is fiddly and a lot depends on the length and diameter of th hole.
I've also considered using thin walled copper tube (like you get from modelling shops) to pass down the holes, but never actually don this.[/quote]

Cheers Clive, your advice is much appreciated!

Right, I'm pretty sure the pickup wires aren't screened. They're very thin and after all this is a re-issue of a 60's Precision, which I'm guessing wouldn't have screened wires??

So, I pretty much need to create a copper [i]tunnel[/i] from cavity to cavity I suppose. I'm not sure if I've got any cables handy that I can butcher to get the brading, but i've been considering some other ideas.

I've had the crazy notion to cover a small plastic tube in the copper tape and cut it so it's just the right length for the hole and pass the wires through. I've also considered just wrapping the copper tape around the three wires and passing them through the hole, tacking more tape at both ends (in both cavities) and soldering to the copper cavity floor. What do you think of these ideas? Furthermore, is it feasible to join the cavities with tape over the top, as suggested by johnnylager?

I've fully lined each cavity with the copper now; just need to drop some solder on the joins between the tape, then I'll be good to go with tackling the [i]copper tunnel[/i] to link the cavities. Any further guidance you can give on the above suggestions would be most appreciated

[quote name='Count Bassy' post='955635' date='Sep 14 2010, 01:27 AM']You could pass a bit of braided cable screen through the holes and expand it to fit, and then solder it to the copper screen at both ends if you wanted.[/quote]

Is this the same as the outer mesh stuff you get on coaxial cable? When you say [i]expand it to fit[/i] how do I do that?

Could I not just link the two cavities through the hole using a normal bit of insulated wire, soldered to the copper screen on both sides?

Sorry for all the questions, we're nearly there now.... :blush:

[quote name='Count Bassy' post='955635' date='Sep 14 2010, 01:27 AM']and if possible line the drilled holes between cavities[/quote]


What about the drilled hole for the ground wire that attaches to the underside of the bridge....? Do i simply just carefully apply the foil around this hole?

[quote name='Ou7shined' post='955061' date='Sep 13 2010, 05:19 PM']so you can leave an overhang out the top of the cavity and make sure that the copper on the underside of you p/g touches it. Simples.[/quote]

Good man, that's exactly what I was thinking of doing; just needed somebody to confirm it was ok to do

[quote name='Hamster' post='955020' date='Sep 13 2010, 04:47 PM']You can take the ground from the back of one the pots or at the jack connector - but just make one earth connection, just use a bit of wire and solder onto the copper tape.[/quote]

So just connect a bit of wire to the existing solder blob on top of one of the pots then? I assume you mean not to connect to [b]both[/b] back of pot and the jack connector..? (just do one or the other) Just wondering what sort of wire to use...

Also, should the copper under the pickguard connect to the copper in the body cavities?

(actually, just read your post again and I think I've got it)


Cheers for your help by the way

Hello fellows

I'm considering putting some copper shielding tape inside the cavities of my P bass. I'll be doing the underside of the pickguard too. I've read a lot on this topic and I think I pretty much know what I'm doing now.

One thing that crops up regularly in the threads is that the copper tape has to be connected to [b]ground[/b] somehow. What is the best way/ways to do this?

Sorry if this sounds like a dumb question, but I just wanna do it right

[quote name='Rasta' post='924652' date='Aug 14 2010, 08:57 AM']Hi, I have a really nice passive Hohner jack bass (Headless neck with a bass body unlike the cricket bat style, sits very nice). This is my back up bass and is getting used very little and i do like swapping my back up to try different things every now & then. Sooo there is lots of info on google on these, great bass, very phat sounding, pretty light and its in a G**tar case which will be provided.
Tradeswise, well i fancy trying a CV Squire, any really Jazz or P & happy to add some cash if needs be but not a lot. Or maybe a SX Jazz as i recently got a SX P and quite like that for noodling at home or i may entertain w.h.y. such as 8ohm Hartke XL 15' cab.other basses etc

Also i have a 8ohm Hartke 4x10XL cab to trade if a deal comes along and someone is interested.

Pictures to follow:[/quote]

Ahhh, i loved my old Jack bass and I did carry mine round in a guitar case. First decent bass I ever owned, but was sold on many a year ago.

I also love the Squier CV P bass i've got now though, otherwise I'd do the trade with you rasta. Nothing else to trade unfortunately, nor any cash to spare..

I can only wish you good luck with the trade/sale my friend

Bobby

This item has now been sold

This is still available chaps, hence the bump....

[b]Hi guys

I've got a flightcase that was made for my Trace Elliot series 6 1215 combo. Back in the 90's I got into the bad habit of transporting the amp around without its flightcase and it is now a bit worse for wear. It's now pointless me putting it in the flightcase any more so the case is now gathering dust and is surplus to requirements.

This is a rock solid case that was custom made to fit the Trace amp like a glove. It's got battle scars but is still fully operational. Hopefully it is of use to somebody out there.

The internal measurements are: 600mm (H) x 470mm (W) x 350mm (D) approx

[/b]

Very nice, very nice indeed. Gorgeous colour!

it's making want to dig out my old Stu Hamm cd's.....

(Oh, that crisp tone!)

Was this the one Jigster was selling?

I loved it then and love it now but have not a penny to spare

Price dropped, therefore bump....

My pregnant girlfriend has one......


(Can't believe this hasn't gone, ffs!!)

COME ON SOMEBODY!!