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alhbass

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Posts posted by alhbass

  1. I've been reading the thread about whether heavier/denser basses make an inherently different sound from lighter ones with interest...

    I'm looking for a bass that will give me a very "twangy" sound - a kind of really hicksville, bluegrass sound, rather than heavy and deep. So I thought the natural place to start looking would be among semi-acoustics - but now I'm wondering whether that's the best approach..?

    I plan to put lightweight strings on whatever instrument I get, of course, and would consider changing pickups if necessary (and affordable) too - but would welcome any further advice/opinions. Thanks.

  2. [quote name='absolutpepper' post='716539' date='Jan 18 2010, 01:15 PM']Hey

    I am looking to purchase a Markbass (or Eden) head. My primary concern is portability and storage which is why i've narrowed my selection down to these maufacturers - they seem to offer the best quality/portability match.

    Basically i'm looking for some advice as to models. I really like the Little Mark 250 but i'm concerned it would be powerful enough (other choice being LMII or equivalent Eden), however if it LM 250 will address my needs I dont really fancy having to pay the extra for an LMII if I wont see the benefit.

    I am playing a mix of heavy rock/prog with all passive basses (CV Jazz, Ric 4003) in small/mid sized venues (i dont see myself playing arenas any time soon). My band has 2 guitarists who both use Marshall JCM heads at rehearsal and we rarely play places that dont include a proper PA.

    Question is, I s'pose, will I get the headroom in the LM 250 to cut through at a loud gig with 2 guitarists or am I better playing more and getting an LMII???

    Any advice is appreciated.[/quote]


    Til recently I have always used a MarkBass LMK for gigs, but now have a MiniMark Combo that I use for practice at home, and sometimes for Band practices. It's only rated at 150w (unless you add an extension cab, which I haven't done), but I've been amazed to discover how well it delivers against two loud guitarists and full drum kit in rehearsal. And I've got recordings (from a single, stereo mic) of some of our rehearsals to prove it. Admitedly I usually end up with the amp turned up to the 3 o,clock position, but it has never clipped, distorted or otherwise complained!

    So I'm figuring that, using a small extension cab to draw the full 250w potential, it would probably cope easily with most club/pub gigging situations. Hopefully I'll be able to confirm that shortly, as I've just done a trade here on BC for an MB New York 604 cab, which I look forward to putting thro it's paces in a live situation soon. Assuming the amp stages of my MiniMark and the 250w head you're contemplating are the same (or similar), I'm guessing that whatever I find out would probably apply equally to the LM250. I'll keep you posted...

  3. [quote name='karlthebassist' post='724519' date='Jan 25 2010, 08:30 PM']On the necks I have de-fretted, I have tightened the truss rod up a bit to create a back bow (takes pressure off the frets), and just used a soldering iron to heat the frets to loosen them off (it releases the oils in the wood, drying it a little and opening up the slot, takes a while), then gently wiggled the frets out with a pair of flush cut nippers. Problem can come in where the fret tangs are big and grip the wood more, which can lead to the wood flaking up around the slot when pulling them out. But they went in that way, so should come out.

    Get a gentlemens saw or pannel saw to cut the slot depths evenly on each fret, cleaning them out. if they are not even and clean then when you go to fill the slots you will notice the little lines of veneer that come down the edge of the fingerboard will look un even.

    Standard 0.6mm wood veneer is perfect for filling the slots - i have used superglue and titebond in the past and would advise against superglue... use a chissel to trim down the veneers after theyre glued in. keep glue to a minimum (but you know that being a joiner)

    If you can get a straight neck on the bass before you de fret it then you stand a good chance at getting it nice and level with the frets out. If you use a long block to sand the board you can get it pretty straight easily. Bolt on necks can be shimmed at the back of the neck pocket to give you a lower action is the saddels wont go down enough. also the nut will have to be re-cut, but thats easy.

    I'd say definately have a go on the washburn though. its fun. i taught myself how to do it on my squire mb-4, which was my first bass. but like chris says, you can get replacement fender necks REALLY cheap so thats a good option for the usa bass. I payed 47 quid for a brand new, finished, all maple Allparts neck on ebay!

    [url="http://www.allparts.uk.com/online-shop/allparts-guitar-amp-parts/necks/bass-necks-c-277_1_122_124.html"]http://www.allparts.uk.com/online-shop/all..._1_122_124.html[/url]

    look at those prices. theyre not bad necks at all really.

    but if you feel confidant after doing the washburn then go for it! you can always get it re fretted! (just dont go mad on the sanding :) )[/quote]


    That's a fantastic reply - very helpful - thanks.

  4. [quote name='Beedster' post='723640' date='Jan 24 2010, 10:25 PM']Always better to buy an aftermarket fretless neck for a Fender. They can be picked up pretty cheap (less than £100 for pretty good quality). You then have two necks if you need versatility, and the original bass if you need to sell.

    Chris[/quote]

    Thanks - I wasn't aware of that option. Any advice on what to look for when buying a fretless neck? Don't think I'd know a good one from a bad one, until it was too late maybe!

    Still interested in hearing from anyone who can give me advice on how to tackle the job on my Washburn tho...

    PS didn't Jaco take the frets off his own Jazz bass? Guess he knew what he was doing tho!

  5. Hello.

    I've always opted for heavier gauge strings in the past - but I'd like to have a go with some really light, twangy strings - out of curiosity as much as anything else (and because I've been trying to get better at double thumbing, which I find really hard with great fat, telegraph-pole strings!).

    Can anyone recommend ones to go for? Ideally not too expensive for now, as I'm only trying this out for now. But if it works, I'll probably be happy to invest in better ones if it's going to make the difference...

    Thanks for any advice/recommendations.

  6. I'm interested in the possibility of de-fretting my Washburn bass. It's not an expensive instrument, so I'm not overly worried about using it as a test to see whether I can do it ok (not going to have a first go on my US P-bass!).

    If successful, I'd be interested in doing the same to a P (or possibly J) bass as I'd like to try playing fretless, but when the odd one comes available they seem even more expensive. I'm a joiner by trade, so well used to dealing with wood - but I've never turned my hand to instrument making/altering...

    So specifically, I'd be interested in any general advice about how to go about the task (and pitfalls etc) - but also technical issues arising, eg might the action end up being too high (I know it can be adjusted, but by how far?) once the frets are gone? I'd want to put lightweight strings on it, with a low action (I quite like a little "fret" buzz) for slapping, popping, bending and general abuse...

    Any advice or observations gratefully received. Cheers.

  7. [quote name='Clarky' post='722189' date='Jan 23 2010, 02:17 PM']Thanks guys, so thats two votes for the MXR M80 so far. Anyone else beg to differ?

    BTW, if the pedal was pretty small all the better (eg, not the programmable Sansamp BDDI which didn't fit in my gigbag with my other bits and pieces)[/quote]


    I'll throw in my tuppence worth in support of the Sansamp BDDI. I've had the prgramable version a couple of years now,and perhaps it's taken me that long to really get the best out of it, but I think it's great - it's the one pedal I never gig without. It's possible to work around the rather annoying "fixed mid-range" system to get the eq you want (but it would have been much better IMHO if they'd simply provided a mid-range knob).

    A couple of times I've used it without any backline at all - just DI from the Sansamp and used a house monitor. Certainly takes the hassle out of travelling to gigs on public transport.

  8. [quote name='The Cooler King' post='722519' date='Jan 23 2010, 07:54 PM']Power supply noise, ground loop ? Are you by chance powering it from a daisy chain with other pedal not in the FX loop (i.e. FX chain beofre the pre amp) ?[/quote]

    Yes, at first I was - but thought that might be the problem, so isolated the power to the pedal - it still makes the noise, whether using PSU or battery (which is fine - I checked). And, as I said before, the pedal makes no noise if I put it in the chain before the preamp (ie not in the loop)....so I don't think it's a fault in either the pedal or the PSU...

    I'm mystified...

  9. Hello. I've had a Dunlop Cry Baby Bass Wah pedal for ages - not used it much in the past, but I've recently started working with a new band and suddenly finding some possibilities with it.

    But - on the rare occasions I've messed around with it in the past, I've put it first in the FX chain, ie in front of the Preamp. That worked fine. I'd now like to use it in the FX loop, as to me the effect sounds better blended with the dry signal, but I'm finding it generates a terrible noise - a 50hz hum I think, tho not certain. The noise is constant, not made better or worse by actually using the pedal, and is the same whether I use batteries in it or the PSU.

    The pedal still works fine if used in front of the pre-amp, generating no noise.

    Any suggestions?

    Is it simply not possible to include this type of pedal in the FX loop (it's a Markbass LMK)? My other pedals are working fine in the loop today, so I don't think it's a fault in the amp either..

    Grateful for any advice.

    Cheers,

    Al

  10. [quote name='Musicman20' post='719705' date='Jan 21 2010, 12:17 AM']Hey...

    Thanks for the heads up :)

    Ill take a look[/quote]


    Great. As I said, you're welcome to give it a try if you're at all interested - just let me know (phone number on the Market Place thread) - no pressure of course!

    Cheers, Al

  11. [quote name='Musicman20' post='719643' date='Jan 20 2010, 10:37 PM']To update....the bass has been returned. Ive been talking to JTUK and Dave Bass about getting this bass for a long timeee!

    I was searching for a decent Lakland Skyline DJ5, any colour, any board. Ive tried three new ones now, and the QC was not upto scratch. Ive emailed Dan from Lakland to see if he can help.

    For now im giving up....Im also not 100% convinced the Lakland tone is perfect for me. The necks and style of the basses are amazing, but Im missing the sheer grunt of a USA Fender!

    Next plans for a 5 string? Wait for the new Ernie Ball Musicman Classic Series Stingray 5.[/quote]

    Hello. May I draw your attention to my US Standard P-bass V that I'm currently looking to sell (it's in the Basschat Market Place)? I'm hoping for £750. I had a Seymour Duncan "J" style bridge pickup added, which I think works really well. I'm in York, so not impossibly far away if you wanted to try it out...

    Let me know if you're interested anyway.

    Cheers, Al

  12. Hello.

    Bit of an unusual request maybe, but I thought it was worth asking...

    I'm new to Basschat - but think I'm off to a good start, having agreed with member Fluffo to trade Markbass cabs (through the Marketplace ads).

    He's in London and I'm in York, so we've agreed to meet kinda halfway on Thursday evening to make the exchange.

    Just wondering whether there might be any kindly disposed, hospitable Basschat member in the Peterborough/Grantham area who might be willing to allow us to meet at their house, so we could to plug in an amp for a couple of mins and satisfy each other that our respective cabs are in good working order...?

    It goes without saying that we've established enough trust to undertake the swap anyway, but it would just be an extra reassurance if anyone was up for it.

    And of course, it would have the bonus of being social too.

    Grateful for any replies.

    Cheers,

    Al

    07710 928466

  13. [quote name='ukbassboy' post='712030' date='Jan 13 2010, 10:38 PM']I've started today on the road to a new light weight rig with the purchase of a Barefaced Compact. The Ashdown Mag 600R will be out the door soon in favour of something lighter, most probably Markbass. I'm just not sure if 500W of Markbass power will have the same Oomph as the 575W of the Mag 600R which I have gigged pretty much on full volume at times (I play a 5 string and like it DEEEEP!). Might have to make the step up to a Little Mark 800.
    At the moment I have an ABM 410H (UK made, before they went to horribly cheap looking PRC ones) on top of a Mag115 deep. The ABM isnt exactly light at 36 Kg but i have a strange infatuation with it and it does sound awesome. The compact should be significantly better sounding than the 115 and comes in at less than half the weight.
    Cant wait till it arrives.[/quote]

    I used to use a Markbass LMII, and now have an LMK. I'd be willing to bet you'll find a 500w MB head plenty powerful enough! These days I have MB cabs - but for years I couldn't afford them, and so used the MB heads with all sorts of cabs, including various Ashdowns, and, for a while, two Trace 4x12s stacked. I can honestly say the MB heads have always cut it, even at big outdoor gigs. I was (and still am) playing five strings basses too.

    I heartily recommend you give them a go anyway, if you're after a good, lightweight amp.

  14. I'd be very interested to hear from anyone with any experience of either of the above models of semi acoustic bass from Hutchins. I think they're both fantastic looking instruments, and they're in my price range - but haven't managed to get my hands on one yet so no idea what they actually sound/play like! Any advice welcome...

    Thanks.

  15. [attachment=40512:Os_Summer_08_006.jpg]

    UPDATE 26/01/10 I think I can buy the kind of 4 string bass I'd like for about £600, so reckon I can afford to sell this one for £550...

    Hello,

    I'm selling my modified P-bass V.

    It's a US Standard five string from 2007, in 3-colour sunburst, modified by the addition of Seymour Duncan "J" type bridge pickup (and volume knob).

    I bought it (second hand) from Absolute Music in August 2008 (I have the log book), and had the bridge pickup added by Electro Music in Doncaster shortly after. They also changed the scratch plate from tortiose shell to black.

    I like it very much and have used it a lot, but have decided to revert to a four string instrument and can't afford to keep both...

    I think the J pickup modification is very succesful - the P pickup sounds just as it should of course, but having the option to switch/blend is great. In fact, if I end up buying a four string P-bass I might well do the same thing to it...

    Dont know whether to expect the modification to add to or detract from the value - I think it's a great bonus of course, but guess some might not think so... Especially as it's a Seymour Duncan pickup rather than a Fender one (but Fender wouldn't sell me a single Jazz bridge pickup on its own). It's a good quality component though, and professionally fitted.

    Attached are a couple of pics - before and after modification.

    Serial number is Z7238426

    I'm hoping to get £750* for the instrument, but am open to offers. (I paid £900 for it, before the cost of having the bridge pickup added.)

    You're welcome to try before you buy of course - give me a call on 07710 928466 if you're at all interested.

    Cosmetically and technically it's in very good, shiny nick.

    [attachment=40513:bst2usfenpbass5_1_.jpg]

    Here are some more pics....

    It's currently strung with Rotosound Tru-bass nylon flats, but unless that's what you particularly want, I'd change those for something a little more conventional to sell it. Think I've currently got the Warwick Black Labels it came with, or some D'Addario Chromes. Might be able to dig out a set of Elixirs... Let me know if you're interested anyway.

    [attachment=40529:Pbass_V_001.jpg][attachment=40530:Pbass_V_002.jpg][attachment=40531:Pbass_V_004.jp
    g][attachment=40533:Pbass_V_013.jpg][attachment=40534:Pbass_V_006.jpg]

    *not any more - see the Update above

  16. Yes mate, it does do full on distortion/fuzz as well as more restrained SVT drive. I find it a very useful, flexible piece of kit - it's the only pedal I always use.

    Al

  17. [quote name='johnbass57' post='712103' date='Jan 13 2010, 11:43 PM']Purple Chilli have their own forum on a site that does not charge but who's name is unmentionable :)[/quote]

    Oh, OK! So how do I go about being initiated into the mysteries of Bass-lore and find out to which site you're referring?

  18. I've seen Zoot cabs on ebay, and for some indefinable reason I find myself quite drawn to them. But I've never heard one live, and can't even find a demonstration on Youtube...

    Got in touch with the maker/seller - I'll visit anytime I can get down there, but I don't have the time to make the journey right now.

    So, can anyone advise me from personal experience? I'm particularly interested in the 2x12, but am tempted by the 2x15 (can't really pretend I often need a cab that big though...). I'd just be interested to hear your opinions...

    I have a Markbass LMK amp.

    Thanks.

  19. [quote name='sifi2112' post='711713' date='Jan 13 2010, 06:37 PM']I'm very tempted to get the Markbass Compressore without even testing it but at £170+ !
    check out

    [url="http://www.ovnilab.com/"]http://www.ovnilab.com/[/url]

    cheers

    Simon[/quote]

    Thank you very much for the link - that's very helpful

  20. [quote name='jontywisp' date='Jan 9 2010, 08:16 PM' post='707004']

    I'm not looking for major distortion and nasties, just for warm fatness a la Stax bass sound


    I use a SansAmp BassDriver DI in front of my Markbass LMK when I want an old school sound (I'm playing a P-bass with Rotosound Tru-bass nylon flats) - it does a great job I think. And it'll deliver fearsome crunch and grit if you ever decide you want that too. But for simple, old school warmth it's ideal.

  21. Well, well done for getting it at a reasonable price anyway! If they were a bit cheaper I'd probably buy one and hope for the best, but not at £150.

    If you manage to get any sound or vid clips, it would be very interesting to know...

  22. I'm looking for the right compressor... Tried some cheaper ones (Ashdown, Digitech, Boss...) and wasn't convinced by the experience. So for now I play wihout any compression. But I'm really interested in what I've heard about Dave Hall's valve compression pedal. I think it might be just what I'm after. But they're quite expensive, so I'm reluctant to just go ahead and buy one without ever having heard one, let alone tried it myself.

    So I got in touch with Dave, and he said "ask on Basschat". So here I am. Anyone out there got one? I'd welcome any advice, comments (good or bad). Best of all would be a vid clip to hear one in action... But I'll take any help I can get. So let me know....?

    Thanks.

    Oh, and in case you were going to ask, I like the sound of them because sometimes I'm after a kind of vintage sound (I have a P Bass, with Rotosound Tru-bass Nylon tape flatwound strings on it) when finger picking funk lines - but then I also have an active Washburn with roundwounds that I use for faster, trashy, slap'n'pop, strumming in a kind of "wish I was Les Claypool" style. So I figured the choice of hard or soft compression, combined with valve tone the DHA pedal offers might work pretty well...

    I use a Markbass 410 with LMK head, and a Sansamp Bass driver when I want a bit of extra grit and grind in the sound.

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