ejor31

1/299 All user reviews for the Fender Classic '50s Precision Bass 4-string bass guitar from Fender belonging to the Classic Precision Bass series. 12 user reviews BUY USED Aucune annonce $569.99 average used price PRODUCT PRESENTATION REVIEWS PRICE ENGINE CLASSIFIED ADS FORUMS WRITE A USER REVIEW FILTER Keywords OUR MEMBERS ALSO LIKED: Ibanez GSRM20 Ibanez GSR200 G&L Tribute JB-2 Average Score: ( 4.8/5 based on 12 reviews ) 11 reviews 92 % 1 user review 8 % Write a user review Audience: AnyoneValue For Money : Excellent USERS REVIEWS most recent most useful ejor2131 An excellent and accurate reissue of a groundbreaking instrument Publié le 12/01/20 à 05:17 I had always liked the look of 50 s basses and acquired used over two years ago a mint 2008 Fender Mexico Classic 50s Precision Bass in Fiesta Red, ‘gold’ anodised pick guard and maple neck and a non-Fender ‘tweed’ hard case for a very good price. It’s previous owner had included bridge and pickup chrome covers. Before lockdown I was using it regularly on gigs and playing it through a SansAmp bass driver into a GK MB-210 combo. I have played several varieties of Fender .P-Basses and would like to share with you my experience of the 50s Classic MIM model. 1. The bass looks stunning with its very distinctive livery, is just under 4kg weight. 2.The neck has serious heft- but so had P-Basses built in the 1950s. I like the playing feel and the guitar begs you to ‘dig in’ and play hard! There are no dead spots. The gloss finish on neck may not be to everyone’s taste but I like it. I quite like the ‘reverse’ style machine heads. 3. The FR paintwork feels thick but it’s durable and I am not prepared to interfere with it as it looks so good on the bass. Yes, it may strangle the bass’ sound a little but this is nothing that cannot be adjusted on the amplifier.....that’s what all those knobs and buttons are for! On a good amp you can easily dial in the sound you want. The signal source, this bass, is a very good one indeed. 4. The bass sounds like, well, a good Precision should with a distinct tendency towards bright . Deep, well- grained notes drive a band. The volume and tone controls have a progressive ‘sweep’ and the bass is surprisingly versatile. The pickup, pots and capacitor are, I believe, the same ones that used to be fitted to the American Standard basses. It shares its bridge (threaded saddles), 'reverse' tuners and knobs with the US 'Original / AVRI models. This bass came to me used with the period-correct thumbrest and strap button at headstock rear fitted by its previous owner. To conclude, this bass is of largely similar quality to US models. I cannot fault it on build quality, playing feel or sound and it also succeeds in delivering a 50s vibe at a very good price. As a modern rendition of a bass built in 1957/8 this formula works very well. I believe the new Vintera 50s Precision which recently replaced the Classic 50s is largely the same instrument with a couple of tiny tweaks and different colours.

It sounds like a shielding issue. It is an easy and inexpensive fix. I had the same issue with a Jazz Bass. Take out the pickups and desolder their wires at pots. Get a small pot of shielding paint, some adhesive copper foil and three tiny screws. Before we start remember ALL shielding MUST be earthed onto a control pot. Shielding and its earthing are in addition to the existing circuitry of your guitar. Using sandpaper abrade both pickup and control cavities so that paint will stick. Apply one coat and let it cure for 24 hours. Apply a second coat only then and let it cure also for 24 hours. Shield the rear of the pick guard for 3cm around its pickup cavity. Use conductive copper foil for this. Run a wire ( strip off plastic from a piece of guitar or mains wire, the only requirement being that there is a contact with pick guard shielding) up from the base of the neck pickup cavity to contact the rear of the pick guard. Screw this wire into the bottom of the cavity. From the same screw run a wire through the neck pickup wire channel and screw into bottom of control cavity. Use a tiny screw to avoid it going through the back of your bass!!! Now in the same way run a wire from the control cavity screw through the bridge pickup channel and screw into bottom of the channel. Also be sure to run a plastic coated wire from the this screw to a control pot surface. You have now created an electrical circuit between the pick guard, both pickup cavities and control cavity. Remember your bridge must remain earthed.. Resolder pickups to respective pots. If you do the work described carefully the hiss/hum will be eliminated. The sound of the bass will be in no way affected. Good luck with it!

Hi- I live in Ireland and I've recently had the same experience with my 7-year MB150E combo, which rattled ONLY when I hit a low F on my P-Bass, rendering the amp unusable. It turned out that the interior 90 degree weld at rear of amp had split vertically over about 4 inches. The technician I took the amp to is quite familiar with this problem with this particular amp, due to constant vibration of the speaker-( you'd think GK would have sussed that before releasing an otherwise very good amp onto the market....) This problem is quite repairable but requires someone with expertise in and equipment for aluminium welding-there is no other reliable way to do this. The amp casing is all-aluminium ,presumably for light weight. Curiously, I've had a GK MB150S, equally often gigged, but no problem at all with it. Neither amp has had any problem with active EQs etc. and appear to be very reliable indeed, apart from the split weld in my E version. I keep them as they're very portable, have a great sound- i put my bass through a SansAmp Bass Driver to approximate a valve sound, and with the satellite GK speaker cabinet, is as loud as I need it for the gigs I do, a classic 2 x 12" sound.

Hi- IMHO you need a 35" scale to counterract a muddy B-string. I have a Lakland US 55-94 dlx (35" scale)5-string and the low B is quite clear.-the Lakland site's product description does NOT exaggerate! It's a very versatile bass that makes a damn good stab at P- & J-Bass sounds but has its own voice. Ditto for the Skyline-series 5; a shorter scale would have a detrimental effect on that low string. Recommended bass-and built like a tank, really bulletproof.

Hi-that's good to know. The RWs are good basses, but at a serious price point for MIMs.....so US- sourced electrics partly-only partly- justify the said prices....ejor31

Hi, I own a Japanese-built Epi short-scale Elitist EB-3. It's effectively a high- quality reissue of the Gibson EB-3, indeed a more accurate one than Gibson's current SG Bass. The Elitist has 4 knobs and a Varitone pickup switcher, the SG reissue 3 knobs. It came, with case, in two finishes, cherry red and black. Mine is red. The Elitist's electronics are US-made and as such, are identical to the SG's where applicable. A well-built bass, it gives a good '60s vibe. I bought mine cheap in the US when the dollar was worth less than 0,70€.It's of light weight and sounds good, too, and I use it for jazz sessions. Neck dive is a problem, but I remain seated! The huge pickup at the neck fairly booms but a fairly wide array of sounds is possible as there's a much narrower pickup at the bridge. I have been able to compare both the Elitist and an old EB-3, and with the same settings and new strings on both there is very little, if any, difference in sound. The Epiphone Elitist was an upscale version of the cheaper Korean bass- I have a Korean long-neck EB-3 and the build quality of the Japanese bass is superior as are the electronics. If an EB-3's your thing, the Elitist represents good quality and a very good visual stab at the original Gibson at an affordable price point, and they do come up on occcasion on eBay. Other respondents to your question have recommended Burny and Greco basses-they look good, but I don't know about their electronics. Verdict: recommended!