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Vini Sasso

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About Vini Sasso

  • Birthday 08/02/1980

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    Campinas, SP, Brazil

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  1. And I've got some great news! I see the schematics found on the Web aren't exact. I luckily have another boxer PJ (one 2021' reissue) sitting here for my recordings, so I decided to open its cavity and figure out what it is like under the lid. As I am a newbie in electronics, it was hard for me to tell exactly what I found. I just marked the parts and wires visually. I see there are some wire tubes containing one white wire (I suppose it's signal/hot?) and another bare wire (grounding wire?), and there are also single white wires coming from small holes that lead to the pickups, probably signal wires taking their signal. And some thin black wires also. The TBX is a bit different to the one Fender offers currently. Maybe because that one in the Reissue is from Japan? Two parts are definitely there: one 0.022 uF Capacitor labeled '223K' (for treble rolloff of the tone knob I suppose?) and one 82K resistor (took longer to decode, because it uses coloured bars I had to search what they mean), both soldered into the TBX tone pot in their distinct positions. And now by replicating the reissue Boxer circuit, I got the serial wiring back in place. I can be totally wrong, but I suppose the serial connection is a kind of 'two-way exchange' between the pickups - they both have a ground wire that will meet the other pickups' signal wire ahead in the pickup selector? At least that's what it seems, but never to be taken literally, because I will check everything until I get all reliable info. And what a difference it makes! I can hear it. It's quite growly. And in PJ blend settings, one volume pot can cancel the signal altogether if set to zero, as expected. There's still some work to be done on the frets - they are basically dead. Once it gets past the fretwork I will be happy to share some recordings. I might also share the schematics so other fans of the Boxer PJ will be able to replicate factory settings too if they wish to, except it will be in portuguese instead of german ๐Ÿ™‚ Ok, I might take some time translating that into english too.
  2. The DPDT switch is an interesting idea, might try this in the future. Really, I felt so frustrated when I learnt that the Bass was all messed up, I just want it to recover its voice and characteristics for now. I like the way a Boxer sounds when in factory conditions, this is why it's the focus today. In the future I might look into nice changes and mods maybe.
  3. Thanks! I'm ok with V V T, I like to blend pickups and try different sounds from them. Regarding TBX, the previous owners of the instrument messed so badly w/ the electronics, that it was absent at first. There was just a regular pot in there. I could install a new TBX quite easily, it was a available for purchase, I like it a lot. A bit subtle, but it does transform the way the Bass is perceived tonalwise. The only thing that doesn't check (I am newbie in electronics) is the serial connection between the pickups. Not only the P splits are in serial. in a Boxer in factory settings, if I drop any of the pickup pots to zero, the sound of the Bass altogether is cancelled, no matter what setting the other pickup pot is. This is due to the serialized connection. Probably it was intended for a fuller and more aggressive tone?, as a serial connection does imply that all pickups with a single output gives a louder signal with a bit of variance in frequencies it seems. Sรณ Maybe that is part of the "voice" of the instrument even though we know that mostly it's about the pickups. Fortunately the pickups are original, so there's hope. ๐Ÿ˜Š Let's see how it gets.
  4. Cool! This might help... The manual is an interesting read, I have a copy here. Thanks The other diagram, I saw one of these in Pinterest. Can't tel how accurate it is (or isn't). Seems like a standard PJ wiring (an innacurate diagram) though.
  5. I see this is the most similar you found. (Well...and the book in German again ๐Ÿ˜Š) This is a P boxer with P/P configuration, so this is not completely out of hand. However, as I already mentioned: - Boxer PJ has V / V / T (TBX) pots. This one is clearly different as it mentions: V / Tone / TBX Tone I see this is a similar model. But still I want my instrument to replicate factory settings the most possible. Thanks anyway
  6. I read some of these, didn't read others. (actually I was at one of these, I'm familiar to TB ) I'll check them out. Thanks!
  7. Hi all! This is my first post, so if it's at the wrong place, please let me know) I'm trying to get my older Fender Boxer bass (P/J setup) restored to the closest to the 'factory settings' possible. I bought it used in 2022' and it was in rough conditions. I still wanted it anyway because I like to restore things from time to time. It took me some time, and analysis from a local luthier, to find out that its electronics were all messed up. The pickups were original at least, so it wouldn't be hard to make it sound the way Fender intended it to, at least that was my first thought. But I am having a hard time in this restoration. The closest to a wiring diagram that I found around the web is a PDF book written in german (and I'm utterly incompetent at reading german, so I resorted to Google for some help) - it presents what looks like a Fender PJ-555 (one of the product codes for it) which matches the Made in Japan Boxer. However the diagram offered seems wrong. It doesn't even mention the pickup selector switch. (sigh!) I tried different forums and many places around the Web with not very reliable results. Does anyone here happen to have a true and reliable schematics for the Boxer Bass to share? Does someone remember important info about its electronics? All I could find via YouTube reviews is: - the Boxer PJ contains a pickup selector Switch (P/P+J blend/J) and is wired in Series (I mean, not only the split coils from the P are in Series. The route from P to J pickup also is - apparently to give it even more sound pressure and output?). If a pickup volume knob is dropped to zero, the bass is muted altogether no matter what the other volume cap setting is. (and I read somewhere that this is another outcome of Series wiring). Its tone pot is a TBX control pot, not a conventional one. Total 3 pots: V / V / T (with TBX) As for volume cap values, I've read them both are 250 Kohm and them both are 500 Kohm. I am not sure who is right among these two but I am not too concerned because as far as I know any of these values can be fine and are a matter of taste. As for other pieces, capacitors, I really don't know what are the right ones and where they should be connected to. So, if anyone has reliable info to share, or a nice schematics, I appreciate a lot. I apologize if my english is not optimal. It is not my first language. Thanks in advance
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