ColinB
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Posts posted by ColinB
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[quote name='Osiris' timestamp='1420116609' post='2645697']
It's probably worth seeing if the existing pup can also be wired with a series/parallel switch too as this would be an even cheaper option.
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I've looked.... nope! It's a two-wire p/up. -
Bump.... 'cos I use flats and have passified my Ray4 and I'm still unsure on the sound. 'Nasal' was a good word.
My first thought (actually, it's my third thought now) is to buy a GFS MM pickup and wire it in with a parallel-series switch.
What d'you think, please. -
I love a happy ending.
Congrats on your purchase..... and I'm looking forward to a review (please) as that's on my 'watch carefully' list. -
Can you ask her to talk to my mum, please! Congrats on your parent therapy purchase..... now send her a picture of you gigging it.
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That's a good deal! (it's also quite heavy!)
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Yep - that was a very good, informative review.
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[quote name='timmyo' timestamp='1418913643' post='2634773']
P.s. Where might I be able to get someone to cut a Sterling pickguard with this additional pickup cut in it too?
Cheers
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If you get the pickguard cut first, you can then use it as the router template for the body. -
[quote name='Hutton' timestamp='1418903197' post='2634617']
Agreed. It's far better to get loads of examples. It's how you find out stuff you haven't heard before.
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Indeedy - The Crusaders stuff is fantastic. Great thread. -
I use the Wizard P/J set and I'm very pleased with it. I see Hot-rod pickups are doing a higher output set so I don't think they're the same. They might wind you a pair of lower output ones if you ask.
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Works fine for me!
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[quote name='Iain' timestamp='1418568182' post='2631222']
The 'need a spare' is also a great excuse to buy yourself more toys...
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Yep - just done that by using that line of reasoning! -
[quote name='theyellowcar' timestamp='1418573081' post='2631277']
Certain American dealers have a Surf Green/Maple version of the Ray 4. I wish I could get my hands on one of those bad boys but they won't export them to the UK.
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Drool -
[quote name='Heket' timestamp='1418484519' post='2630596']
Honeyburst?! Where are you guys finding all these cool colours, I had a choice of black, white or walnut satin (which I have). I'd have [i]loved[/i] a honeyburst one. I shouldn't complain too much as I got mine in a clearance sale, but I would have paid more for a snazzy colour.
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They're at Thomann: [url="http://www.thomann.de/gb/search.html?filter=true&gk=giebs4&manufacturer%5B%5D=Sterling%20by%20Music%20Man"]http://www.thomann.de/gb/search.html?filter=true&gk=giebs4&manufacturer%5B%5D=Sterling%20by%20Music%20Man[/url] -
It starts at post #339 on this page.... [url="http://www.talkbass.com/threads/sterling-by-music-man-sub-ray4-and-ray5.871370/page-17"]http://www.talkbass.com/threads/sterling-by-music-man-sub-ray4-and-ray5.871370/page-17[/url]
However; the first post is the circuit diagram that Discreet posted above, the other posts are step-by-step photos and instructions from the VP. He takes a lot of time and trouble to post the instructions and then some tw*t has a go at his soldering skills! Jeez! -
My SUB Ray 4 in Honeyburst arrived yesterday evening. Give me a couple of days to get a proper feel for it and I'll post up a review. Initial impression (after a set-up but with the el cheapo strings still on)..... crackin' bass.
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....and be quiet, or I'll give you something to really cry about!
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You could tap the nut out and use a cut piece of wood veneer underneath it - and don't use any glue to start with as it's a trial and you'll probably want to change it at some stage soon. The string tension will hold it in place.
However, if the original nut's been put in with a lot of glue then there's a chance of pulling a lump out of the edge of the finger board. What I tend to do is turn the bass on it's front, and place the edge of a 1/8" chisel exactly on the join of the nut and fingerboard and then give it a light tap or two with a small hammer to try and move it vertically upwards. This tells you how well it's stuck. If it doesn't come out with a light tap then I cut it out, which isn't an option for you.
Go the 'paper under the strings' route to start with, just to check to see if the nut is too low. -
There's an 'ignore list' in the [i]your profile[/i] drop-down at the top right. I suggest that putting BeardyBob on it might be a good idea for those who don't want to read his stuff.
Just a thought. -
That looks lovely. However; the Root-Beer Metallic looks stunning.....
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I'm feeling blue!
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How about a transparent p/g.... the copper shielding would be very Steampunk..... or a copper p/g?
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Nah! You just need some copper pipe from B&Q and arrange it like this..... [url="http://www.earthbornerising.com/Pyramids.html"]http://www.earthbornerising.com/Pyramids.html[/url]
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Get thee behind me, Santa.
If I wasn't awaiting delivery on a different bass then this would be so, so hard to resist! Have a Wednesday morning bumparoo from me. -
I get 4.8 Ohms.... and your plugging in assumptions are correct and it is called running in parallel. It doesn't matter which cab comes first.
As to how you would know....... I don't know. Decades of playing and 20 years a Physics teacher is a great help to me.
Changing the fundamental Stingray sound
in Repairs and Technical
Posted
I've just raided my PayPal account and bought a GFS MM pro plus that has 4-conductor wiring.... but it'll be a while before it arrives. I'll report back!