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bremen

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Posts posted by bremen

  1. 16 hours ago, NancyJohnson said:

    I ran an old Precision bass for years, this went through several pickup configurations and arguably the best was when I just wired a 1/4 Pounder pickup straight into the output jack.

     

    Not pots, just pure signal; this fed a POD (and later a BDDI), then into the effects return of whatever amp I was using.  Lovely.

     

    End of the day, I always play with everything open; this just takes it a step further.  We obsess too much - just let the bass ring and let your outboard kit and amp do what they're supposed to do; shape and amplify.

    Works for me, too. Still got the controls, but fitted a bypass switch.

    • Like 1
  2. My sister has a 90s 5 string Thumb that she discovered has a stripped truss-rod nut. Apparently in an effort to alleviate the neck-dive they specified an alloy nut, and this is a known issue. I don't know how difficult that would be to fix. If you want to have a go, make an offer.

  3. 16 hours ago, TheGreek said:

    You're all missing the essentials...

     

    The Ritter Royal Flora Aurum

     Price: $250,000
     Manufacturer: Jens Ritter
     Year Made: 2006
     Body Type: Solid

    The Ritter Royal Flora AurumImage source: Jens Ritter Instruments

    The Ritter Royal Flora Aurum Bass Guitar truly represents the epitome of luxury and craftsmanship, with its attention to even the minutest details making it a veritable work of art making it the most expensive bass guitar ever. One of the standout features is the Floral Pattern Fingerboard Inlay, which is meticulously crafted from massive 24-carat gold.

    The bridge, tuner buttons, and knobs are individually hand-cast in massive gold, exuding a sense of grandeur that complements the bass guitar’s overall aesthetic. Two flawless brilliant-cut diamonds, each weighing 3.3 carats, adorn the knobs, elevating this instrument to the realm of true luxury. The incorporation of tiny green brilliant-cut diamonds as knob position marks is a thoughtful and intricate touch, adding both functionality and beauty to the design.

    Did You Know?

    To underscore its uniqueness, the nut is crafted from at least 10,000-year-old mammoth ivory, connecting the instrument to an ancient past and making it a true collector’s item.

     

    ...but is it the best bass for metal?

  4. 7 minutes ago, LukeFRC said:

    I personally think that most the tone from a guitar or bass comes from the TONEWOOD, I’ve done extensive RESEARCH on the internets so don’t have the TIM to argue with uneducated people about that. What I would do is combine the BEST of all worlds to create a amazing axe - the body would have layers of ash, alder and mahogany letting me access all the major guitar tones - and then I would want in layers  a 5A* burl top, then 5A*flame maple then with 5A* quilt top - expensive but worth it by having all the tone woods it gives you. ALL THE TONES  


    the fretboard I haven’t decided on but think maple under the D and G strings, wenge under the A and then Brazilian rosewood under the B and E string 


     

     

    Interchangeable tonewoods, possibly automated, so you don't get the problems associated with playing in C on a maple body or 3/4 with ebony fingerboard.

     

     

  5. 19 hours ago, BassmanPaul said:

    just to be picky with the OP, Class D amps are not digital they are analogue. :D

     

    I use a 2KW capable  Class D stereo power amp driven by a full tube pre-amp I designed and built for that purpose. In a four space SKB rack case I can lift it with just two fingers. :)

     

    True, but it doesn't help that the Synq amp pictured above describes itself as 'digital' on its face.

    Like a pair of headphones I once owned, a panel heater on the wall over there, and probably several of the onions in my fridge.

    • Like 2
  6. On 27/02/2024 at 04:20, BlackCrow said:

    And if that is not enough information, I only use Duracell batteries to power the active EMG pre-amp and active pickups running to a Mogami Gold 6ft cable  with one straight 1/4 inch end into the pedal chain and a 90 degree 1/4" end into the bass. The Voodoo Labs pedalboard which powers all my pedals ( no 9v batts in pedals) which are all all connected by Mogami Gold 3" patch cables. The Mesa amp power cable is stock. I run all this through a Furman RMI/EFI/Surge protected power conditioner. I keep my bass in a Gator hardshell case. I use a Franklin black leather strap about 4 inches wide with some nice padding over my left shoulder with some nice brass conchos in the empty adjustment slots that hang on my right side behind my ass. Play mostly two-finger style, but can make do with a plectrum if a song requires more "bite". Usually wear jeans and boots and a t-shirt to rehearsal and gigs. I have more hair on my face than I do on my head, and usually wear a cap, but how all this info will help me determine if a particular Barefaced cab will work for me is beyond my comprehension...just trying to supply all the info I can...

    But... What are the best socks for metal? 😅 

  7. On 23/02/2024 at 12:55, Andyjr1515 said:

     

     

    By the way, I answered a basschatter's PM query recently about setting the trussrod and how it works/what it does.  In it I used some googled diagrams/pictures to illustrate and clarify what some of the terms we use mean.  If anyone is interested, more than happy to copy and paste that here.   

     

     

     

     

     

    Thatd be most helpful, thanks! 

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