Johncee

Another thumbs up for Terry from me. A fine fellow to deal with.

On 10/04/2022 at 20:36, FDC484950 said:

I think it’s a series 1. This bass has block shaped bridge saddles, my series 2 had tubular saddles like a Fender.

There are 2 versions of the version 2's 🤓. Original Version 2 has the block shaped saddles, "updated" version 2 has the round ones. 

Nice knobs on this one!

Crikey, mate, you could've given it a bit of a dust for the photos...😀

1 minute ago, bagsieblue said:

 

Do you mean the various effects / block within a patch, or changing from a patch to no patch?

 

If we say the middle row are footswitches- the metal ones, and the lower row are pedals  - the black paddles.

 

Individual effects and blocks you hold down the lower right pedal to go into Stomp Mode - you can then toggle on and off as required.

 

From a patch to no patch - quickest way is to set an empty patch up next to a patch and jump to that.

Otherwise hold down pedal 3, then press footswitch 1.

Thanks - I meant patch to no patch.

Thanks to all who replied. Looks like setting up an adjacent empty patch is the way to go!

Recently acquired a B3N and trying to figure it all out....Please forgive me if I'm being a simpleton😀

I'm happy with the straightforward use of the various effects, but struggling with patches.

Specifically how to turn them on and off. I can get the patch up and turn individual effects within the patch on and off via the foot switches, but I can't figure out how to toggle the entire patch on and off. I'm sure I'm missing something really obvious, but any help would be appreciated!

Bought Wayne's Sire P7 bass. Lovely guy to deal with, and bass is top notch.

To me, the Yamaha seems a little louder. Comparisons are tricky when levels aren't matched.

You could've made the bed!😀

Coming from the insanely priced world of violins/violas/cellos I'd say Foderas and other premium bass brands look rather reasonably priced. Fill your boots if you can afford it!

Nice lump o' wood. Is that some figure on the back or just a reflection?

On 11/02/2022 at 22:07, StingRayBoy42 said:

That is really beautiful - that blue with a maple neck... Wow.

Never seen a Sterling with a Flea bridge-there can't be that many of them around.

If I didn't have two MusicMans (MusicMen?) I'd be all over it like a randy shower curtain.

GLWTS!

‘Scuse my dumbassness, but what’s a Flea bridge?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/304063911735?hash=item46cb9f1737:g:kowAAOSwAcxg7Egr

Kosher?

Lovely. Where are you located?

10 minutes ago, Quatschmacher said:

Thanks! That's cool. I was leaning towards 21.5mm-23.5mm for my build so am starting to feel like that's a good choice.

 

Any USA Sterling players who could supply those measurements?

My USA Sterling is 20.5 mm at 1 and 23.5 mm at 12.

4 hours ago, Bloopdad1 said:

Hi all.

For info -

Martin Penning in Frome (superb bass Luthier) has them and can fit and "tune" them up. 

I've recently played a gorgeous Lott model bass in Birmingham with one of these vernier scale adjustable posts. I was totally blown away by the sound that the bass that the  owner attributed to this post (he's principal bassist of a prominent UK pro orchestra). 

The "tuning" is critical by spinning the extending/retracting wheel. Martin did this when the player was playing it so he could feel and hear the difference. Once the optimum pressure on the table is found then the telescopic post is locked off and adjustment wheel removed. 

It's very useful if the top pressure changes due to atmospherics, different gage/tension strings or changes in humidity/seasons. 

The bass is regularly played in the CBSO. 

I'm strongly considering getting one for my main orchestral bass as is my missus for her violin. 

(bit pricey though). 

Beware - One caveat is that as it opens up and increases the volume and projection of an instrument IF you have a wolf note (most basses do) then as well as the desirable tones it'll also "amplify" the wolf note! 

I think this is the "Hamberger" soundpost rather than the Anima Nova, which doesn't have the adjuster wheel. I have no idea how these compare*, but I've spent some time with the Anima Nova for violin and viola and the change in sound with post length/tension was a revelation to me after 20 years or so as a luthier. I'm pretty quick at fitting wooden posts, but even so I find my aural memory is too short to pick up the detailed changes in sound produced by ones of different length. With the carbon fibre posts it's quick and very obvious. 

* maybe the Hamberger sounds a bit Wimpy. Coat on, taxi called.

"Pressure Drop" Robert Palmer

Some lovely playing by Jamerson and Kenny Gradney.

Bought a Beta mk II pedal from Col: mint condition, next day delivery, great communication. 👍

2 hours ago, Burns-bass said:

Thanks for your expertise John, I really appreciate it. When I’ve applied the leather dye how can I blend it in to the rest of the fingerboard? Is it just apply a few coats until it matches or are there any tricks of the trade?

I'd apply it to the whole board, not just where the epoxy is. A little bit of the dye goes an awful long way. Not sure how well the dye will take on the epoxy. Some trial and error needed. Matching texture is as important as matching colour if you want to hide the repair as effectively as possible. 

1 hour ago, Burns-bass said:

Hi all, I should say that the epoxy I used was black, but when sanded it’s gone grey. It turns out that it can be stained so I’ve got some leather dye and will use that. Will share some pics when it’s done…

Trick of the trade to cover defects in ebony is to wet sand with thin superglue and 250 grit wet and dry. Takes practice, but works a treat. Fiebing's leather dye works great for staining.

On 18/12/2021 at 22:24, TwoTimesBass said:

Borrowing an idea often seen on the Builds thread (although it would mean re-doing some of the epoxy), could you get some dust by sanding the underside of the fingerboard overhang and mix it with the epoxy to get the same colour?

if you have a suitable scraper, I'd be inclined to scrape the existing epoxy back a bit and overcoat with black stuff, as suggested above.

Mixing with a black artist pigment would be more effective than ebony dust. Or you can buy ready made black epoxy.

Have you got a photo of the damage?