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Stewart

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Posts posted by Stewart

  1. Bridged mode uses both channels of a stereo amp (into double the per-channel minimum impedance) to roughly double the power.
    The dual numbers are per channel (stereo) - bridged is mono.

  2. It's my practice amp - it gets turned on and off several times a day - Never had a problem yet (for about 4 years)
    I've gigged it a few times just to get it warm :)

    To me the fact that it isn't massively powerful, and doesn't need fan cooling makes it ideal for the job.

    Nice EQ too, and though the power stage is a little noisy it's almost silent from the DI out.
    Expensive though...

  3. Most cheaper desks only allow global phantom on/off (for all mic channels) - and you need it on if you have any active DI boxes or condensor mics.
    Higher-end desks usually allow individual selection.

    Phantom power *shouldn't* adversely affect any recent/decent amp, but you're not going to find out unless it goes pop.
    I've never had any problems (Gallien Krueger) though a couple of venues have complained about hum (which has probably been introduced through noisy phantom power) - it's quiet as a mouse through any of my kit.

    Easiest to just use a DI box before your amp for the desk in most cases though - invariably what the sound guy will prefer.
    You could always mic your cab...

    Edit "Dohhh" Bill got in there first :)

  4. I thought it quite amusing (as I invariably do when people mock superstition), but didn't feel the need to reply. :)

    With regard to (paraphrasing) "Which PA for a small church?" it's also almost as useful a reply as any of the other posts - no information has been given (or asked for) in terms of the size and shape of the space!

    In many 'traditional' church buildings a 10/12" + 90 degree horn cab is almost certainly going to be a disaster...
    Putting bass guitar through such a system in addition to vocals/guitar isn't likely to help either.

  5. [quote]...
    As to whether you're 'impressed' or not? Thanks for your valuable input. It's been really helpful.
    :rolleyes:[/quote]

    The quality of your response is second to none :)

    I can understand completely why people might get a little evangelistic (particularly on a 'web forum' specialising in bass guitar) over bass guitars, also amplification... probably pedals on occasion... rather less so when it comes to wire and plugs.

    (edit: The irony of my twice bumping a thread promoting Mr Cornish's Very Fine Cables isn't lost on me! :lol: )

  6. How was the clip recorded - through an amp, or direct?

    Any reason you can't use some EQ - just drop the bass a bit?

    Possibly your top strings might be choking a little because the action's too low, but otherwise it just sounds like it needs a bit of bass cut...

  7. Perhaps it was always noisy (how long since you had the original pickups in there?)

    Probably worth just disconnecting the pickup and hooking it directly to a jack cable (just hack off one jack plug and twist/solder the leads directly to the pickup wires - if that's ok, then it's volume pot or bad joints (soldered that is :) )

    Otherwise take a good look at the offending pickup for signs of cracked/chipped magnet and/or damaged coils. Look for any iron or steel garbage floating around...

  8. Sorry - I simply meant mounted butted together rather than using any additional fixings

    Ventilation - just don't obstruct any fans or vents...

    You need to put it all together to try it - If something gets too hot, then give it some more air /space
    Mine has only ever approcahed being hot playing at ludicrous levels outside...

  9. I'd avoid any padding between the two, I'd clamp them both together tightly - less chance of either moving.

    If one runs significantly hotter, I'd stick that above the other, and if it's still uncomfortably hot then I'd put in a 1U grille above that.

    (I do anyway, as the GK 1001RB has a top-mounted fan).

  10. There are several youtube vids on how to roll/coil cables correctly - check it out (I was a late learner myself)

    Summary is that you reverse the 'twist' for each loop of cable - doesn't cure all snagging completely but helps a lot!

    It's a lot easier to show than to describe...

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