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Stewart

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Posts posted by Stewart

    Rewiring and fusing a speaker cab

    in Repairs and Technical

    Posted

    I wouldn't be too concerned about the rating of the resistors (if you *must* use them at all) - you're never going to be running at anything like the rated power for any appreciable period of time.

    As to the question:

    Why don't speaker cabs have intrinsic circuits to protect speakers from blowing out?

    Given the variable nature of virtually everything concerned (power handling at specific frequencies, impedance at specific frequencies, compliance, maximum excursion blah blah...) you'd need something like a preprogrammed 'smart' circuit breaker to suit the model of driver in the cab concerned.

    Even if such a device existed it would likely cost more than every other component.

    It is much easier to do at line signal levels, and many active PA cabs use a DSP to practically achieve what you're after - but it was an intrinsic part of the design from the outset - and includes the amplifier/s in the equation.

    Rewiring and fusing a speaker cab

    in Repairs and Technical

    Posted · Edited by Stewart

    Four of these would probably be fine:

    [url="http://www.rapidonline.com/sku.aspx?tier1=Electronic+Components&tier2=Resistors+%26+Potentiometer&tier3=Power+Resistors&tier4=Aluminium+clad+wirewound+resistors&moduleno65217&catref=62-8140"]50W resistor[/url]

    As to why you might not want a fuse in line with the speaker, just think about why you might want some nice heavy duty cables to drive your speaker/s...? :)

    Edit: Add amp comment:

    Solid-state amps will drive a high resistance all day - no bother

    I have to do the Pa

    in Repairs and Technical

    Posted

    You'll generally plug the main output/s into the FOH amp/s and pre-fade auxiliary output/s into your monitor amps (pre-fade because you don't want your monitors changing when someone moves the channel faders)

    You'll probably run your Alesis from a post-fade auxiliary output (and suitable return) unless you are using individual inserts on channels...

    Need more info/pics to be of much more help...

    why does no one buy anything on this site

    in General Discussion

    Posted

    geofio: I HAVE NEVER HEARD A SINGLE BASS I LIKED WITH THOSE EMG HZ PICKUPS, UNLIKE THE MANY I'VE HEARD WITH EMG PICKUPS (NO HZ) - BUT MAYBE YOURS WOULD BE THE ODD ONE OUT... I MIGHT BE AN INTERESTED PUNTER WANTING TO KNOW A BIT MORE ABOUT THE THING THOUGH (HOW MUCH WAS IT NEW PERHAPS, WHAT IS THE WIDTH AT THE NUT?, WHAT STRINGS ARE ON IT? (OR IS 'NEW'THE MAKE?), HOW WOULD YOU COMPARE IT TO OTHER BASSES YOU'VE HAD? WHAT DOES IT WEIGH? - IT COULDN'T HZ :)

    EVERYONE ELSE: You shouldn't be harrassing this new member, he may well be from another environment where using lower case is threatening behaviour, and following any advice given by those who use such 'dark magic' would obviously be a foolish course of action to take!

    STAMP OUT CASEISM NOW!

    What would be louder

    in Amps and Cabs

    Posted

    All of this audio stuff is a compromise, but some things are 'easy wins' or (even more ghastly...) 'low-hanging fruit'...

    For example sticking your rig as close to the back wall, as near to a corner as possible will considerably improve your output - why would you NOT want to do that?

    Another example would be using cabs with (ideally) identical drivers closely vertically aligned, which will considerably improve your horizontal dispersion (that's left to right in non-tech speak) - why would you NOT want to do that?

    Help Wanted Gk 800RB

    in General Discussion

    Posted

    Something like this should be OK (though you'd need to get/make a 16A CE to 13A adaptor for this one):

    [url="http://www.screwfix.com/prods/61847/Electrical-Supplies/Industrial/Site-Distribution/Portable-Transformer-with-2-Output-Sockets-1-5kVA?cm_mmc=GoogleBase-_-Datafeed-_-Electrical%20Supplies-_-Portable%20Transformer%20with%202%20Output%20Sockets%201.5kVA"]Transformer[/url]

    But it'll be heavy and generally a pain...
    Ultimately I'd get someone to change the amp transformer

    DI box or socket?

    in Recording

    Posted

    [quote name='Putty' post='1013667' date='Nov 5 2010, 07:28 PM']Ok, got everything setup now. DI out on amp to line in on my external soundcard with 30cm cable. It's working great (better sound and nice to have stereo for once) but I'm getting a very annoying constant high pitched tone which I don't get if I use the standard line output on the amp.
    Any ideas on how to get rid of this other than post recording noise removal?
    Thanks again for the help[/quote]

    There's no stereo involved from the DI output.

    Start by checking the wiring.

    A good place to get wiring details is here:
    (There are a number of variables, including whether you have single or twin shielded cable. At the 3.5 mm end you should probably choose left or right only, but you might be OK running L + R from the same signal)

    [url="http://www.rane.com/note110.html"]Rane Interconnect details[/url]

    Make sure the Ashdown and computer are sharing the same mains supply - run them from the same 4/6/8 way mains adaptor - along with any other audio devices you have attached to either the amp or PC (like powered speakers..)

    Otherwise it's just a matter of elimination...

    If you have/can borrow another amp/combo (or perhaps active monitors) then you can use your DI out through that and see if you hear the same noise (make sure the PC and any other unused gear is off for this) - if so it's virtually guaranteed that the Ashdown's producing the noise (might be a fault or a 'feature'....)

    If not, keep swapping things out / turning things off - networking/wireless gear, modems, TVs, radios and game/computer gear are often 'noisy'

    Good luck!

    :)

    Crossovers

    in Amps and Cabs

    Posted

    [quote name='4 Strings' post='1012329' date='Nov 4 2010, 05:29 PM']...
    Even with bi-amps there's no crossover so the same goes to both (sets of) speakers.[/quote]

    The term bi-amp (to me) implies a crossover at signal/line level with two power amps feeding individual high/low frequency speakers

    There isn't a term I'm aware of for multiple differing drivers being fed by one or more amps without any form of crossover, but I'd like to suggest JBOS (Just a Bunch Of Speakers) :)

    DI box or socket?

    in Recording

    Posted

    You won't need a DI box if you're using the DI out from the amp, but you will be 'unbalancing' the connection when you go from differential (the XLR connector) to single-ended (the mini jack) - which will lose you a bit of gain, and its inherent noise-defeating properties (so don't use longer-than-necessary cables)

    The main thing is to ensure you don't overload the input of your sound card
    Many will have some form of control panel with metering

    Bear in mind that 'line level' typically means 100-250mV for 'domestic/PC purposes' and 775mV for 'Pro Audio'

    Bitsa P-bass REDUCED PRICE!!!

    in Basses For Sale

    Posted

    You are suggesting that the bass cost you £850 - you also profess to believe that it's value is the same thing.
    I don't think I need to say that I percieve things differently

    WD Painted bodies currently cost 219.68 inc VAT and they were 180 inc VAT around a couple of years ago

    Had the body been a Warmoth, I might have offered to buy it from you
    It isn't, and you don't have anything else I want

    Have a form of luck with your sale

    Bitsa P-bass REDUCED PRICE!!!

    in Basses For Sale

    Posted

    Neck 170
    Body 276
    Badass 91
    Neck Plate 15
    Knobs 10
    Tuners 60

    Total 622

    Another thing that doesn't quite add up... I bought a BlackWD Music body around 2 years ago at £180, and since then everything's been gradually increasing in price - sure enough they're now 219.68 - how odd that you managed to pay £276

    Nice Mac screenshots BTW :)

    Bitsa P-bass REDUCED PRICE!!!

    in Basses For Sale

    Posted

    [quote]Warmoth was the company which made me the body[/quote]

    Easy to prove that - the neck pocket on the body will be clearly marked with their guitar-playing turtle (terrapin, whatever..) logo, and the Word "Warmoth" - get a shot of that and you'll definitely move some of those parts, if not the whole bass.

    Upgrading machine heads on CIJ fenders

    in Bass Guitars

    Posted

    Here's a couple of pics, the first shows 4 heads - the left hand is a 'special' Fender Japan, with the same size tuner pins as the second head (USA), the two on the right are 'standard Fender Japan' as far as I'm aware.

    [attachment=58771:P9140013.JPG]

    The distance between E and G centres is identical on all four (~143mm), but the pins are ~ 13mm diameter on the LH pair, and around 11mm on the right.

    The rear of one of the RH Japanese is in the following pic - the plate is smaller than any other type I have to compare with (no Mexicans so far...)

    [attachment=58772:P9140014.JPG]

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