TwoTimesBass

I've given up pretending... PM'd...

Borrowing an idea often seen on the Builds thread (although it would mean re-doing some of the epoxy), could you get some dust by sanding the underside of the fingerboard overhang and mix it with the epoxy to get the same colour?

Agree with all the above advice, and unless you have particularly high or low voltage (which I'd expect to manifest itself in other things in your house), or a fault on that ring main which can be tested by both suggestions above, I reckon it's more likely an amp issue. For peace of mind a plugin socket tester like a Martindale or similar will rule out faulty wiring on your outlets for about £15.

Crude as it sounds, give it a good old thump on the top or shake when it misbehaves, it could be that there is something loose inside which resolved itself by way of the journey to the tech, and has since come back again.

24 minutes ago, mhoss32 said:

@TwoTimesBass each pickup will go to a different output, with independent preamp controls for each itll be a 4 or 5 pin mini XLR, switchcraft do mini xlr jacks that are very similar in size to a standard 6.35mm so it should still look and feel pretty normal 

Thanks mhoss, that makes sense, gives you some great options for the matching pedal! Those mini XLR's are pretty good, i've used them on a couple of (non-guitar/bass) projects in the past and they stand up well. Lemo also make some great, if a bit pricey, mini multipin connectors.

On 01/02/2021 at 20:11, mhoss32 said:

There will be two outputs, one balanced stereo and one mono. The preamps will run independent paths through an MN balance pot and a stereo volume pot, with a switch to choose between the mono or balanced stereo output.

the switch then acts as a mute switch when flipped the other way

Loving this build and the complexity of the electrics!

How does a stereo output on bass work, across the pickup or between pickups? Are you using a 5-pin XLR for the balanced stereo output to get enough connections?

Great work!

You're trying all the right things, and you're correct that it points to the active hub. It sounds like it's more complex than a simple audio ground loop, more likely a ground loop somewhere in the USB system that is manifesting itself on the audio. Is the soundcard plugged into the Pluggable box too? If so can you try it directly into the other USB/Thunderbadger socket on the Mac? Or vice versa if it's not?

Rather than a DI box i'd be looking at an isolation transformer something like this:

https://www.gak.co.uk/en/art-dti/781?gclid=CjwKCAiAjeSABhAPEiwAqfxURceWCxxo3LumXwArloolWZv0RVUgjLkKEVkxlfPWzSyFyLEFNCOa7BoCzzcQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

which allows you to go in and out via phono. No guarantees though, I'd want to make sure you can return it if it doesn't solve your problem.

One other thing, are there any Energy Saving features active on the Mac? Sometimes odd things can happen if the Mac is putting things to sleep in the background after a few hours.

I've got an H5 which isn't a lot more money (but is an older model) which has the interchangeable mics with an added physical gain control. Spec's reckon it's good for 140dB SPL and i've certainly not had a problem recording loud gigs.

Many places, my go-to for Neutrik connectors and quality cables is Van Damme 

https://www.vdctrading.com/

1 hour ago, owen said:

This is a genuine first world problem.

And yet not an uncommon one. I'd had this issue lots of times on different Mac laptops, you're correct in diagnosing an earth issue. It's basically a sort of ground loop i think that builds in intensity if you like (like mic feedback) which is probably why reselecting the amp input (or disconnecting the power cable on the Mac?) fixes the issue for a while. I'd give everything a good old clean for a start, particularly the Mac power cable and charging socket. Likewise earth pins in the plugs and audio connections. Beyond that try removing bits of kit apart from the Mac/Soundcard/Amp and see if it makes a difference. Any metal touching the case?

There are a couple of audio isolation transformers around which I've used successfully in the past, Radial Engineering make a number of options.

Good luck!

1 hour ago, MuddBass said:

You will find a range of slight deviations from those sizes. Sometimes these are refered to in 8ths, such as 7/8ths, 3/8ths etc. What matters more is if the bass size suits the person.

This is a great point. I was initially put off the bass I now own as it was described as a 7/8ths, and was worried as it wasn't a 'typical' 3/4. In reality it is a big bass in terms of depth and front length, but only by an inch here and there compared to a known quantity bass like a B&H or Kay. Scale length is a totally reasonable 41.5" and it has a HUGE acoustic sound that suits where and what I play. So glad I eventually went to try it out!

Hi jeanluc,

Welcome to the forum, enjoy getting back into playing the bass again! Plenty to tempt you in the classified section I'm sure

13 minutes ago, Newfoundfreedom said:

I did find these on fleabay, but they're none adjustable and they only seem to do them in 8ohm, and I need to run two 8ohm speakers per channel (4ohm). 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2x-Skytec-2-Way-Crossover-Tops-Bins-Box-Sub-Speakers-2000-Watt-UK-Stock-/382355323416?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49292

Yeah, this might work but you'd be close to the limits in terms of power handling, driving the amps and the crossover pretty hot/hard. Plus there's no way of adjusting the frequency of the crossover point or indeed the level between the speakers. Probably not worth it at this point...

25 minutes ago, Newfoundfreedom said:

I have little to no knowledge at this point of subs and crossovers, but doing a bit of research, the ones I've seen seem to be wired, mixer - crossover - power amp - speakers.

This is a typical setup for PA, with the addition that the crossover splits the signal into (at least) two separate feeds which would then go to different amplifiers for the tops and subs.

You're correct in thinking most crossovers like the Behringer are line level rather than speaker level and you'd do damage plugging the crossover into the speaker outputs on your mixer/amp.

Couple of options:

There's often a FX send/return loop across the mix output on combi mixer amps where you can insert EQ/comps etc. You could put a crossover at this point and send the HF signal back into the amp to run main speakers. You'd then need to get a second amp to run the subs from the LF output of the crossover.

You could run the subs from an Aux on the desk and EQ out the low end from the main PA, though you still need a second amp.

The only way to achieve a mains/subs split with only one amplifier is to put a passive crossover circuit into the main speakers with an output to run the subs. AFAIK there isn't a version in a box where you can just plug in cables?

I'd be surprised if the mixer/amp is capable of powering 2x15" tops plus 2 x Subs also...

The original but played at 33rpm...

I've just got my hands on a MK Studio passive (which I'm loving!) and scale length is also 41"

PM'd

She Bangs the Drums - Stone Roses

Neutrix NL4FX is the typical cable connector on both ends when connecting amps to speakers.

There are a LOT of fake Neutrik clones around which aren't made to the same standards as the legit ones. Had a quick search on Amazon for NL4 and almost all the results are clones.

4 hours ago, Ramsay777 said:

Just thinking though, I could set it on "line" and get and XLR - Jack cable to plug into Input two, also set on "line"?

That would be my choice, running at line level is better from a signal/noise ratio as you're not reducing the level from the Shuttle to then make up the gain again on the Scarlett.

4 minutes ago, Happy Jack said:

I do hope you'll be sure to remove any traces of magnesium or nitric acid before you start work ...

 

Indeed 😀 There is some quality graffiti though which would make a nice feature!

Just now, Jabba_the_gut said:

Look forward to seeing what you come up with!!

Thanks for the advice Jabba, just don't hold your breath please 😀

23 minutes ago, Reggaebass said:

What about cutting a rough shape from an offcut , and that would give you an approximate idea of what it might weigh 

Good idea 👍

Unfortunately the wood is 500 miles away at the moment, but it'll give me a chance to do some designing 😀

4 hours ago, Pea Turgh said:

I’m no woodworker, but 1.5” is already a suitable body thickness.  3” would be huge and heavy!

3 hours ago, Reggaebass said:

I’m a joiner and I’ve worked with teak, there’s lots of variations but in general it’s a very stable wood and used a lot for furniture making, it has a tight grain so it will rout and shape well, but depending on the density it can be heavy 🙂

Thanks folks,

Yes, 'heavy' was my first thought too 😁 I'm thinking quite a heavily contoured small body and i think 1.5" might be slightly too thin, but I could thickness the planks down a good bit first before laying them up.

As I say, complete fantasy it this stage, but it's good to know that there isn't anything fundamentally wrong with using or working teak.

On 02/11/2020 at 13:16, Beedster said:

Thanks linear, I was aiming on using the line level inputs yes, but assume that there's a preamp between these and the converters also, I'm pretty sure I've been able to increase the signal level on the RMEs when I've plugged bass straight in. Might be wrong so will check

Yes, you're on the right track and what @linear says is true. By using a line-level input on the soundcard from a line-level output on your mixer, you've got a strong signal that won't suffer any additional noise or need amplification in the soundcard. Yes, you can turn up the level on the soundcard, but if your gain structure is good through the desk you shouldn't need to. I've not used the Babyface, but on the FireFace if you use the rear line inputs then you're not going via the mic preamps which are mic/instrument rather than mic/line on the front. RME are anal about signal quality and design very very clean sounding kit, so you should worry too much about the interface affecting the sound. Good quality balanced cables, as short as possible also help.

Evening folks,

It's only the beginnings of a thought to an idea, inspired by the amazing work i've see on this part of the forum, but does anyone have any thoughts/experience working with teak as a body wood?

My old man was a teacher, and the weekend before an old part of the school he worked at was demolished he liberated (with permission!) about 30 yards of solid teak lab bench-tops from the 1930's. Given my plan of owning a home and building a lovely kitchen from the wood is largely a fantasy, could I build a bass?

The timber has been dry stored flat for about 15 years since it was liberated, 1 1/2" thick and about 4' wide but made of three planks (possibly biscuit jointed?) to get the width. It's rock solid across the joints and dead flat, and heavy.

If I flattened and glued two pieces together to make a blank around 3" thick, do I have the beginnings of a bass body, or am I over-simplifying things in my head?

I'm looking at a modern small body design (Like a Warwick Thumb but smaller) rather than a P or J style (so hopefully not too heavy), big rollovers and rounding, natural matt oil-type finish...

It might only be a pipe dream, but I'd love to hear any thoughts from the woodworkers out there about feasibility of this as a starting point.

Thanks, and keep up the great build threads, very inspiring!