Bassalarky

Straight into the amp for me, it has a built-in tuner and a compressor (TC RH450) - that's plenty for me.

Keyboard amp is a great idea. We use a Roland (K350 I think) for songwriting sessions. It has a 15" and a horn, 4 channel mixer on top and takes keys, bass and vocals at jam session level easily.  Bit of reverb would be nice though!

23 hours ago, Happy Jack said:

I quite often watch the TV while playing, especially when the footy is on. The rest of the band don't like it much, mind.

 

Once played (The George in Chipping Sodbury I think) with a 9 piece funk band at one end of the room and a boxing match on the giant screen at the other end. We were looking right at it 🤔

"Learn the bass line so you can play it without looking. Learn the words so you don't have to read them. Then practice. A lot." Quote from the guy who got me started on the bass in the early 80's

I hope someone knows an easier way, cos it always takes me ages.  Bv's are a bit easier and some songs are harder than others. I find it harder than singing while playing guitar...

Nope, but I do like a bit of vibrato..

1 hour ago, Skol303 said:

While we're on the subject, here are to links to online acoustic calculators that I fine very useful. I posted one of these earlier in the thread, but here they all are for convenience:

Room Mode Calculator #1: this is by far my favourite; a really well-presented room mode calculator that clearly shows the likely problems based on room dimensions. Includes some well-written notes about room modes here.

Room Mode cCalculator #2: this one is hosted by Bob Golds, who's something of a legend in the world of acoustics. Again, shows the likely problems in a room based on its dimensions

Both of these calculators also include some useful (though somewhat technical) numbers such as:

• Absorption needed to achieve RT60 (the time taken for the sound to decay by 60 dB when the source is removed), based on industry standard recommendations for professional control rooms. Gives an approximation the volume and surface area of acoustic treatment needed to achieve this - prepare to have your jaw drop and your room shrink considerably!
• Shroeder frequency: in simple terms, the frequency below which you should focus on absorbing bass energy, and above which you should focus on tackling mid-high frequency reflections.

Porous absorption calculator: for approximating how effective your DIY panels might be. Flow resistivity numbers can be hard to come by, but there's a handy thread on Gearslutz that has lists of some common materials to help you get started.

As a very rough guide (take with a pinch of salt as I could be wrong!) you can try using the following Flow Resistivity figures for the Knauf fibre I've mentioned in this thread:

• Knauf Dritherm 37 (low density 15kg/m3): 5000 Pa.s/m2
• Knauf RS60 Slab (density 48kg/m3): 12000 Pa.s/m2

Very convenient, thanks!

Thought I'd add this in case anyone is interested in some of the technical side....

If you want to know at which frequency your room resonates:

f - 2l/c

where 'f' is the frequency

'2l' is twice the length (distance between parallel walls)

'c' is the speed of sound (say 320 metres per second - depending on altitude)

If use use this simple equation for each dimension - length, width and height - of your room, you can get a quick and simple guide to the troublesome resonant frequencies - a big issue in turning a domestic house-sized, cuboid room into a studio.  This can help you choose acoustic materials that will be most effective.

I feel that I should mention that egg-boxes have no BS fire-retardant rating and are therefore considered by insurance companies to be a fire hazard!

Sorry if it sounds a bit science-lecture - it can be fun experimenting.

That is gorgeous!

25 minutes ago, Bigwan said:

tonetech do 3 different grits but finest is 320 grit

edit: assuming you mean self adhesive rolls here...

This stuff is just right for my radius and levelling jobs.

I have fond memories of gigging with a fretless version in the 80's. Good luck with the refurb!

Small, light, loud enough and easy to dial in a great sound! That's all I was ever looking for...

Yes, I could. It is great to have variety and choice though.

That's good to know, glad you found a simple solution. Cheers.

Unbelievable!

7 minutes ago, Hobbayne said:

The singer always gets there early to set up the lights and PA etc.

Early AND brings the PA - that singer's a keeper!

Waiting for the hole story....

Giant spaghetti maker? 

I have a '92 MIJ Fender P bass that is light enough (just under 4 kilos) and a really great instrument. V good condition, was £400 used from a local gear exchange - with a case. Olympic white, rosewood board.

Niiiice 😀

I would normally expect the neck pickup to be slightly lower than the bridge.  The string vibrates more in the neck position (the closer you get to the end of the string, the less amplitude of vibration) so if you had pickups that were of equal output, the neck position would sound louder.  Use a lower output neck pickup (or higher output bridge pickup) to compensate.

Please correct me if I am barking up the wrong tree here.

I think Quilter and TC Electronic both make such a thing. 

Thanks for the welcome.  I have a compressor on the amp which works well and I use it a bit, I may have a reason to try a bit of bass distortion....

23 hours ago, SpondonBassed said:

On reflection I might benefit from a looping pedal of some description but I'd only end up playing with myself when what I really need is a lickle band of my very own.

I've seen people using those - they end up playing with themselves in front of an audience.

Nice! Something to get your teeth into.....

Oooh. Lovely!

+ 1

Have done this with half-sized outboard gear over the years, works great.