~tl

[quote name='OldGit' post='652904' date='Nov 12 2009, 06:55 PM']is that the "1970's" jazz bridge position?[/quote]
Actually, the '70s position is closer to the bridge than the '60s position. Compare these two reissues:

[attachment=36221:Fender_62___RI_JB.jpg] [attachment=36222:Fender_75_Nat.jpg]

The eBay auction actually doesn't look too wildly off, it's just it looks a little strange on a Precision since the scratchplate comes a bit lower.

[b]Edit:[/b] beaten to it... twice!

James bought a pickup from me, sent payment quickly, and was an generally a nice chap to deal with. What more can I say... cheers

[quote name='AndyTravis' post='648384' date='Nov 7 2009, 09:42 PM']At a further cost of $77, $50 + $27 shipping, i've ordered some Badass Saddles from www.bestbassgear.com, as Allparts are about as much use as a cock flavoured lollipop.[/quote]
Eek... you should have posted something here first. I've got a 5-string set (already slotted, but not very deeply) that are going spare! If you can cancel the order, then give me a PM...

[quote name='MOSCOWBASS' post='647753' date='Nov 6 2009, 10:56 PM']I got my UL2 410 today and while trying it at home I noticed that the input gain control on my Puma doesn't reduce the signal to zero when it is turned completely down. Has anyone else noticed this? It's not a problem, but I would like to know if it's just my amp or do they all do it.[/quote]
They all do that...

[quote name='Jigster' post='644102' date='Nov 3 2009, 08:16 AM']Hi

can anyone tell me if an amp is di'd with pre EQ setting, does that flatten out any tone shaping twiddling I have done - or does it purely relate to the eq -

ta[/quote]
Generally, pre-EQ means that the signal is taken directly from the input (or after the first gain stage) and hence is the "raw" tone of your bass before any of the controls on the amp.

35W "kickback" practice amp with 10" aluminium speaker. Perfect for bedroom practice. I've used it for a few (quiet) folky gigs as a personal monitor and it's ace. It has a DI out, so it's easy enough to stick through the PA. 4-band EQ (bass, middle, treble & "bright"), limiter, effects loop, CD input, etc. It's had a couple of years of light bedroom use, plus a few small gigs. It's in good nick, but the rat-fur covering has gone bobbly in a few places. Aside from that it's perfect. Due to the weight, this is going to be collection in Glasgow only!

£70/ono.

[url="http://www.samsontech.com/products/productpage.cfm?prodID=1670&brandID=3"]http://www.samsontech.com/products/product...0&brandID=3[/url]

[quote name='warwickhunt' post='643829' date='Nov 2 2009, 08:40 PM']That either blows a hole in that theory or you have cleaner electricity. [/quote]
The 2x10 and 2x12 combos use a Class D amplifier rather than the Class AB one in the 1x10 and 1x12... so that could make a difference too. However, you'd then expect the Puma 350 head to be similarly affected, which it doesn't appear to be. I just tested it, and the hiss is also on the DI out and is especially pronounced when using the Post EQ setting. If anyone wants I can stick a mic in front of it and get a wee recording of what I mean...

[quote name='sifi2112' post='643620' date='Nov 2 2009, 05:28 PM']Is the Puma 212 combo a 500w or 350w version ?
Not really important if it's loud enough but would like to know.

cheers

Si[/quote]
According to the Tecamp website both the 2x10 and 2x12 combos are 500W (Class D) while the 1x10 and 1x12 are 350W (Class AB).

[quote name='wotnwhy' post='642643' date='Nov 1 2009, 05:39 PM']any update on the hiss? mines the same.

i've never had an amp or rig that hasn't had some level of hiss. but playin in my room this hiss is noticable over my playing. which is a little bit worrying..[/quote]
I went back to Guitarguitar and they all do it. So I'm guessing it's a design flaw. (Or feature?) It was a lot less noticeable in the shop, because of the higher level of background noise. I'm guessing it's not going to be a problem on stage, but pretty much rules it out as a recording amp. I haven't checked whether the hiss is over the DI too, I'm hoping it's not...

[quote name='wateroftyne' post='643079' date='Nov 2 2009, 07:17 AM']Is there a tweeter output knob on these?[/quote]
Not on the combos. They don't actually have a tweeter, just a woofer and a midrange driver, but neither are adjustable.

There's already a thread about this here:

[url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=64745"]http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=64745[/url]

Most of the good stuff is gone already (got a 112 Combo myself) but there are still some amazing deals to be had. I'm surprised that 810 hasn't gone yet. At £599 it's a steal.

[quote name='Lew-Bass' post='641413' date='Oct 30 2009, 06:44 PM']Any news on where to get the official covers from?[/quote]
I've e-mailed The Bass Merchant about them. I'll post back if I hear anything...

[quote name='KASH' post='641135' date='Oct 30 2009, 02:43 PM']It's the case, going with a heavier gauge[/quote]
Well, in that case, you'll have to re-adjust everything anyway

I always take them all off to clean the finger board, and have never had a problem with the neck shifting. I always check/reset the intonation after changing strings though.

[quote name='sifi2112' post='641120' date='Oct 30 2009, 02:29 PM']ps. speakon ext states 'minium 8Ohm' .. can I run a 6 or 4 Ohm cab ? (probably wont ever need to tho)[/quote]
It's not a good idea. The minimum load for the amp is 4Ω, so using a 6Ω/4Ω cab with the 8Ω internal speakers would overload the amp (since 6Ω//8Ω = 3.4Ω or 4Ω//8Ω = 2.7Ω).

[quote name='Lew-Bass' post='640619' date='Oct 29 2009, 11:50 PM']I'd like to see someone having a go at [i]making[/i] it removable tbh. I've seen it on here before, where someones taken a saw to a combo with very pleasing results, and as they weren't too bothered about re-sale value, they created a functional combo, stand alone cab and stand alone head out of the one unit. Just gotta be brave and have some know-how really, as is with many things in life. Unfortunately, I haven't much of either [/quote]
From having a peek through the vents, and from the screw locations, I have a hunch that they've just used the same chassis as the head (with a different top plate). If that's true, then it shouldn't be TOO difficult to convert it. I'd think you'd need a new top plate and possibly a new back plate. I guess I'll whip the back off when the new gear feeling has warn off and I feel confident enough to tear it apart

Thoughts so far...
[list=1]
[*]This thing is stupidly light. Easily a one handed lift.
[*]It's plenty loud enough. Even on minimum volume, it's pushing what I can get away with for flat practice volume!
[*]I think I've found my tonal nirvana... TI Flats -> Fender Precision Deluxe -> ACG Preamp -> Tecamp.
[*]It has a tilt-back system consisting of a small aluminium rod that is stowed on clips on the bottom of the amp. There's a holder for it in the port on the back of the amp, which allows the amp to be tilted to a ~45º angle. Which is perfect for the sort of small gigs that I play.
[*]I am, however, slightly disconcerted about the amount of hiss that the amp emits. It's very noticeable with the master above ¼. Adding treble to the EQ really brings it out. I think I'm going to pop back to G.G. tomorrow and compare to the one that they had on demo. I certainly didn't notice a hiss on that one (and had it turned up quite loud), so I think I may have got a bit of a lemon.
[/list]

[quote name='wotnwhy' post='640047' date='Oct 29 2009, 01:57 PM']argh! and the first photo arrives.. didn't put my order in till half 6 yesterday. so probably another night for me to wait.. [/quote]
I picked mine up in the Glasgow store since I couldn't be bothered hanging about for a day waiting for it to be delivered. Also got to have a little play through one before I got it. Pretty chuffed (and skint)

Oops...

[attachment=35331:DSC02398.jpg]

You could always go for FretFX:

[url="https://fretfx.com/"]https://fretfx.com/[/url]

They're LED markers that don't require any permanent modification of the instrument. I believe a few people here have used them...

Crimp terminals, usually. You can get them from Maplin:

[url="http://maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=42725"]http://maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=42725[/url]

I'm sure someone would make you up a lead if you don't want to do it yourself.

[quote name='StevieD_FenderP2009' post='634898' date='Oct 23 2009, 10:05 PM']1: What they are there for?[/quote]
To provide basic shielding against hum. It serves the same purpose as copper foil or shielding paint in a "modern" bass.

[quote name='StevieD_FenderP2009' post='634898' date='Oct 23 2009, 10:05 PM']2: What are they made from?[/quote]
Brass, as far as I know.

[quote name='StevieD_FenderP2009' post='634898' date='Oct 23 2009, 10:05 PM']3: Will it improve the tone of my P Bass (fitted with Seymour Duncan SPB-3)[/quote]
No.

[quote name='StevieD_FenderP2009' post='634898' date='Oct 23 2009, 10:05 PM']4: Will it still work even though I've got cavity shielding on my P Bass?[/quote]
No, it serves the same purpose (though arguably not as well) as the shielding.

[quote name='StevieD_FenderP2009' post='634898' date='Oct 23 2009, 10:05 PM']5: How do you wire it in?[/quote]
It's just wired to ground (the back of a pot, etc).

[quote name='StevieD_FenderP2009' post='634898' date='Oct 23 2009, 10:05 PM']6: Where can I get one?[/quote]
[url="http://www.guitarpartsresource.com/bass_elec.htm"]http://www.guitarpartsresource.com/bass_elec.htm[/url]

[quote name='StevieD_FenderP2009' post='634898' date='Oct 23 2009, 10:05 PM']7: Will I still need to wire a ground to the bridge if I fit one of these ground plates?[/quote]
Yes.

25-key (2-octave) MIDI keyboard with USB connectivity. It's basically a rebranded version of the [url="http://www.thomann.de/gb/miditech_i2control_25.htm"]MIDITECH i² CONTROL 25[/url]. Comes boxed with a USB cable and a driver CD (as far as I remember... it works without drivers on the Mac). Pretty good condition aside from some scratches on the right hand side, which I've tried to highlight below:

[s]£40 £30 and it's yours.. or make me an offer. I'd prefer collection in Glasgow, due to the size/weight, but postage could be arranged.[/s]

[b]SOLD![/b]

[quote name='bigjohn' post='631592' date='Oct 20 2009, 05:58 PM']All I know is there's some clued up fella's who want to make "Mullard" valves and are near enough to going into production with them that the fella I take my amp to told me about em when I mentioned getting hold of some NOS.

He reckons they'll be pretty close to the originals otherwise they wouldn't be bothering / he wouldn't know about them. He designs and makes bespoke valve hifis mostly so he knows his valves.[/quote]
Not quite Mullards, but these are made in Blackburn in the original Mullard factory:

[url="http://www.techtubevalves.com/"]http://www.techtubevalves.com/[/url]

They're a new design that's a direct drop in for the ECC81/2/3. They're, unsurprisingly, not cheap... but have had pretty good write-ups so far. If you want new production, then I hear the new Tung Sol's are good too.

Are you looking for NOS British tubes or the new (Russian) Mullard reissues? If you're looking for the reissues, then Hotrox or Watford Valves are good places to start. If you're looking for NOS tubes, then you're in for a search... eBay's probably a good place to start (but the chance of getting a dud is probably high).

What can I say... Colin bought some strings from me, sent payment quickly, and generally was a pleasant chap to deal with. Cheers!

Both sold, pending the usual...

[b]Edit:[/b] Gone, gone, gone.