jensenmann

[quote name='spiritchaser' post='886498' date='Jul 5 2010, 05:31 PM']The big 1200 watts rig driven by my Wal (see profile for details):[/quote]

Wow, you´ve got another Midibass. This one would fit really nice to my Wenge 5string

Too bad that I had to let my ´64 Thunderbird IV go for financial reasons in the 90s. It was custom coloured in metallic green and looked so glamrock. The only bass which I seriously regret having it sold.
In combination with my silverface SVT + 8x10 cab every guitarplar turned pale about the output. The only other basses that could cut through in a similar manner were WAL and Precision basses.

Yuk, stay away from this one. I´d better use no compression than an Alesis. Get a dbx160 A (or X or XT) and you´re done. You can´t dial in any bad sounding settings (in opposite to a Distressor or 1176) because it´s an automatic comp. Best bang for the buck on pro level. If you want to sink serious money into a compressor get any LA2A, LA3A, LA4, 1176 or Distressor. But mind that more knobs mean more control mean more can be dialed in wrong.

I did tour for years with a lot of Raggae bands. It was always the bassplayer who caught the most women on a tour. Unfortunately I was the soundengineer....

Yummy, SM400....
I owned one for years. Great sounding amp for recording miked cabs. On stage I had trouble to cut through, though.

[quote name='AlanP2008' post='731849' date='Feb 1 2010, 04:56 PM']Unless I'm doing this wrong (and I'll admit that it has been a long time since I did this stuff professionally)... my back-of-a-fag-packet calculation of the -3dB point for a 10k resistor (R4) and a 0.22uF capacitor (C1) is about 75Hz... that's where the gain of the op-amp will start to roll off towards unity.... Not low enough I would think...

1uF would be about the smallest you would want - 0.22 is way too small...[/quote]

The source sees a voltage divider formed by C3 and R5. IC is connected between these two with 10TOhm input resistance, virtually infinity which has no influence on the -3dB frequency. It´s an noninverting topology, R4 only references the - input to virtual ground= half V+ since the circuit runs from single rail. R4 has nothing to do with the input impedance hence no influence on -3dB point.

Finally I´d recommend a booster pedal, too. Snipping wires in your amp is not funny unless you´re expierienced in DIY-electronic.
C1 is theoretically ok. I´d stay with a film cap for sound (less THD than electrolytics) reason but I´d make it as big as possible. Limit is money and space on the PCB. It´d probably be a Wima MKS-2 1uF/63V.

drop me a pm with the text you need to get translated.

[quote name='3V17C' post='731071' date='Jan 31 2010, 09:54 PM']agreed... the bit that stood out to me was how worn the neck joint/heel is... the bottom of the heel is seriously chipped worn and thats not a place that naturally would pick up alot of dings.

aside from that (and the new frets) it does look pretty tasty though! incidently, my reliced jazz has uber rusty pickups and they work fine and dandy!!


peace

c[/quote]

That looks ok to me. My bass has a lot of the same dongs as this one - even many more.
Personally I´d only care for the sound and playability. If that´s great I would not care about any collector standards. But that´s me. Instruments need to get played a lot to sound good, that´s why these frets make me suspicious.

When you buy parts make sure that they fit on your PCB.
I´d go for an OPA134 instead of TL071. Less noise, less distortion and cleaner sound, though it has double supply current.
There´s a bandwidth limitation cap in the circuit missing. Put a 10pF NPO/C0G ceramic cap across the pot. This should be enough (roughly guessing)

You should use it with another cab. Here´s my expierience:
I have a vintage SVT rig of which the head was acting up one day before a gig. I took my Trace 600SMX to the show as spare and had to use it. But I could get neither sound nor volume out of my 8x10". I thought there´s something wrong with the Trace, too, but the next day it worked perfectly with my Boogie 2x10" cabs and still goes strong up to today (7 years in between).

The frets would make me suspicious. It might be possible that this instrument doesn´t sound good. Otherwise it would have been played more in the last dekades. This would have lead to much more wear on the frets. My 62 Jazzbass has max 1mm of frets left due to being played much. Another option is that the neck is defective. A friend of mine is collector and he told me that a lot of these matched headstock Jazzbasses got new necks (esp in the 80s when graphite was hip) since the originals were bent. Before spending so much money I´d definitely want to play it.

When I did DnB in the 90s I´ve been usind a DOD envelope filter a lot. Mostly It was tuned that the filter opened only when I played extremely loud. Regular picking kept it closed for a bassheavy sound. Another thing I did was playing a Boss OC2 with the direct signal muted. The effectsound is something with a sinus-alike waveform which is one or two octaves lower. For getting higher frequencies into the game I splitted the signal and sent it through a Whammy Pedal and different Distortion boxes, TC Chorus/Flanger Pedal, TC2290 Delay and whatever more I forgot. Longtime that I had a look into my stomppedal bag. Both signals went through a Lexicon Jamman for sampling/looping and then into an old SVT head with two channels where it had been mixed together. Lots of fun :-) But we don´t party like that any more

[quote name='richardd' post='621744' date='Oct 9 2009, 03:46 PM']I have owned a couple JV Series P Basses in the past and they only have a volume and one Tone Knob as do all P Basses, plus the jack socket is never on the body edge alway's on the pickguard,please could you enlighten, could be interested. Rich[/quote]

As mentioned above an active electronic has been fitted with volume, bass and treble controls. I have no idea about the brand but if someone is interested I could have a look inside.

The Spector is already sold. Sorry, I forgot to change the header. But my JV Precision is still for sale.

Updated

Well, gents, if this comment was not meant insulting please accept my apologies for the harsh reaction. Though I did read it as insulting, probably due to my limited language skills (the reason why I´m here is practicing english language - besides bassaddiction).

Thanks for your understanding that I´m not a native speaker. Your comment shines a very glorious light on your interhuman abilities.

I´ve been doing that kind of thing with a TC2290 Delay. It has 5 built-in effectloops which can be controlled through a footboard. The 2290 itself is probably the best delay ever made. It provides everything delay- and VCA based in incredible quality with crazy modulation possibilities: delay, chorus, flanger, panning,.... Unfortunately it´s no more made and used prices are always beyond 1000€

bigger transmitter tubes than these 813s have been cooled with hot water vapour. So imagine the next stage of a tube bassamp: 10000 Watts with it´s own heater for the steam.....

Anyway I´d like to hear his amp distort

[quote name='Shaggy' post='528570' date='Jun 30 2009, 01:03 PM']Come the revolution; you will be the first against the wall, and your Wal liberated by the proletariat (ie; me)




Damn, that sounds lush. never heard of / seen that custom option. Any pics?[/quote]

Unfortunately not. That happend to be in times before digital cameras.

[quote name='Shaggy' post='528337' date='Jun 30 2009, 08:29 AM']Ouch! What colour was it?[/quote]

Metallic green. That made it look kind of UFO-ish

Definitely my biggest mistake was to sell my custom coloured 1964 Gibson Thunderbird IV. AAAARRRRGGGGGHHHHHH it still gives me sleepless nights

If a second hand bass older than a few years has a straight neck then it won´t bend ´til the end of it´s life because the wood is fully dried. But if you get a new one you will have no guaranty that it will be playable in a few years because the neck might bend.

As long as you´re in a room with your cabs the room will add loads of modes and combfilter low frequencies anyway, no matter if you have one cab, two or twentyseven. As it´s mainly a function of the placement which is depending where you are standing on stage there´s not much choice and you will have the trouble in a kind of unpredictable way. No way to avoid that.
Oper air is different. One cab is perfect (besides first reflection from floor and - probably neglectable - from roof. Two cabs will give frequency depending combfiltering and frequency depending dispersion.
All the theory besides 2x 8x10"SVT rock. Your guitarplayer shall live in fear :brow: