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Posts posted by bobbass4k
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People do it lots of different ways, my general method -
Drill first
Sand with 400 grit
Coat of primer, dry
Coat of paint, dry
2nd coat, dry
Apply label graphics
Coat of clear coat, dry
2nd coat of clear coat, dry
Sometimes 3rd coat of clear coat
The clear coat I use is good but it takes a.while to dry properly, in summer I stick them outside under a pyrex bowl to get the benefit of UV - I've toyed with getting a UV lamp.
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Currently saving up for boring grown up things like a house so I've enacted a strict policy of self funding brand name pedals so these have to go to fund new flights of fancy.
Digitech Bass Whammy -
In great condition, very minor cosmetic imperfections but that's it. With box. I've uncharacteristically misplaced the PSU as I've ran it off my power bank. Can include a PSU that will work if required. Got my eye on something so priced to move at £130 posted
Boss OC-2 -
Good condition, some cosmetic chips and scuffs but it is older than I am... Also priced to move at £120 posted
Not considering trades at the moment, would do a deal on both if someone was so inclined.
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Yeah I'll have one if you sell them, it's been on my stripboard build list for ages
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4 minutes ago, LukeFRC said:
I was amazed that it used two tubes - but only one for the di …
Not to mention the.completely garden variety TMB tonestack that could have extremely easily had a mids control. But hey, expecting 4 knobs for $1200 just isn't reasonable...
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Nobel clone from c2c mostly built just waiting for a step bit so I can drill the 22mm hole for the XLR and mount the DI daughterboard.
The regular output is better than I thought it would be but still way too transparent to be worth what the original costs... Others who've built it have said the magic is in the DI (it does use a £70 transformer after all) so I'm prepared to be convinced.
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1 hour ago, Rich said:
I'm still trying to de-click my send/return loop pedal switch thingy, it's better than it was but still not great. I happened across this circuit board which appears to be just the ticket -- jack input/outputs to 'Input' and 'Output', send and return to 'B_In' and B_Out', and a momentary footswitch attaches to, errm, 'Switch', and that appears to be it. Oh, and a 9v supply. On paper, it appears to be the ticket. I wish it was available as just a PCB, as all bits are easy enough to source and I like soldering . Anyway, I've ordered one to give it a whirl and will report back.
Musikding sell a few kits - https://www.musikding.de/navi.php?qs=relay+bypass unfortunately they've stopped selling PCBs on their own for most of their kits. Fuzzdog do an optocoupler bypass PCB too which isn't as nice as a relay bypass but should be silent enough and the footswitch mounts on it so it's very space efficient.
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Does anyone want any PCBs from deadendFX? - https://www.deadendfx.com/products
There's a few that I want but their shipping rate has sky rocketed since i last ordered - $60 for a fair few PCBs - anybody interested in splitting shipping costs?
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I might have the original bridge from my old rebel 4k somewhere if you just want a cheap option and aren't bothered about upgrading - yours for postage, assuming I can find it.
When I changed mine I put a hipshot on and just re-drilled.
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Yeah I found it hard to get good results with stamping. I eventually worked out a good process of -
-big sturdy block of wood inside enclosure
- couple of self tapping screws with big washers through the pot and footswitch holes to stop it sliding
- clamp block of wood in workmate/ vice
I also found it useful to use a punch to tap a dent in, just to give the stamp something to bite. I may have just had cheap stamps but sliding was my main issue. As bloke said, the force required is pretty immense.
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59 minutes ago, LukeFRC said:
anyone done musikding since Brexit and been charged VAT on delivery or anything like that?
Or are they big enough to sort it out their side?Not had any issues, even on fairly sizeable orders. They're another one that I think might just be winging it and hoping to get away with it, but no charges on deliveries yet.
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2 hours ago, LukeFRC said:
Guessing it got tagged for import and vat?
Nope, never does, he always marks them as $12 value. Honestly, I don't know how these places get away with it, pedalpcb does the same, but hey, it's their risk.
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1 hour ago, LukeFRC said:
did you order direct? I got put off by the postage!
I bought a few so didn't end up being too bad, got the 2 separate L5 boards as well - came quick as well, 4 days i tihnk?
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I've got a xenotron and an L4 PCB, just waiting for all the parts to arrive. I'll let you all know how it goes...
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11 hours ago, LukeFRC said:
just had a tidy up. It's amazing the selection of random ICs I've collected. Any idea what to do with a handful of LF353?!
Also found a LM4250 I bought to repair a stingray preamp but didn't need, and a MN3207 BB chip!They're good general purpose dual opamps, next time you need a tl072 or a 4558, pop an lf353 in. 4250 might be an interesting choice for a rat circuit.
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Last chance before eBay is perfectly fair, to me at least. I've had a lot of pedals languish in the marketplace here for weeks or months. eBay is pretty much a guaranteed sale, and sometimes you just need something gone.
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49 minutes ago, LukeFRC said:
I have a LT1054 I can try
my thinking is though that if 7660s and 7660h both have a similar sound… and pressing the phase button makes it sound like a cap charging to a point/freq … that it might be something else in the circuit that causes something audible when combined with the sushibox
I think it must be on the ground rather than the power.
Awkward thing is that it’s the one pedal you get as a kit without having the schematicMost pedal designers use the same reference design for the 7660s, if you check the schematic for the pumpernickel i would imagine the charge pump section is identical. if you use the LT1054 make sure you isolate pin 1, either cut the trace on the pcb (bit dramatic) or carefully bend the leg so it doesn't go in the socket.
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The capacitors you're using can affect the noise, modern design rules actually recommend ceramic caps for switched cap charge pumps. Personally I've had issues with the 7660, I tend to use the LT1054. It's pin compatible except it runs at 25khz by default, so pin 1 isn't boost and needs to be isolated from.V+ if you're replacing a 7660s.
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I have an orange one, always known it as an NS-2000, but I don't know how correct that is to be honest. They're a model above the legend, the body shape is more figured and they've got the thru-neck. Had mine nearly 18 years and it's never going anywhere. I've played £1k+ basses that don't feel as nice. I've seen them crop up inn recent years for similar money. With the hardcase I certainly think you're in fair territory, never seen the fitted case before.
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3 hours ago, itu said:
What's that? Looks incredible!
The multiwave mega from parasit studios, microcontroller based wavetable synth - the guy is a genius. I bought the PCB with the microcontroller and decided to add the OLED option. He only provides the hex file for the OLED and that's it, because he doesn't think it's DIY friendly, which he's not wrong about. I got my friend who works at an aluminium fabricators to cut the rectangular hole in the enclosure, but he had trouble with it being a diecast box and had to make it a lot bigger to get rid of cracks.
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Ringing endorsement for the slap bass - I got one years (15?) ago in a trade and I've never got rid of it - transparent it is not, it's a very heavy EQ and very compressed but for that type of drive sound I've used £250 pedals that aren't as good. And the cab simulation means it sounds great straight into an interface, which most pedals don't.
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Didn't really expect this to hang around so long. Dropped to £205 but that's it. It'll go on ebay next week.
DIY Effects
in Effects
Posted
I don't know how the rest of you feel, but i think anyone who doesn't have a small semiconductor fab in their shed and a resistor winding station in their bathroom is just a poser.