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boroman

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Posts posted by boroman

  1. Fender started using tuners marked with "registered" mark after mid 1972 - before tuners had only "Fender" written on the back. After mid 72 they're "Fender (R)" (with some design changes later in 70s, like chrome plated and plate redesign)

    Have you got pictures of neck stamp by any chance? that may help

     

    Below photo of both

    Screenshot 2021-08-15 at 19.10.12.png

     

    Screenshot 2021-08-15 at 19.12.51.png

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  2. 12 hours ago, mikegatward said:

    If it wasn’t for the post Brexit 20% vat I’d probably be all over this - GLWTS

    I've read they might do something about it in the near future. I mean customs-less deal between EU and UK
    Anyway - I always could send it with neck off, with a smaller parcel like "bass parts" with lower value

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  3. This story is quite sad. Like half year ago i bought Ampeg 8x10 from a guy in Wales. Paid 350. But because of COVID and my family I'm stuck in Poland and can't reach that.
    Somehwere between Llandrindod and Birmingham.

    If you want to have all original Ampeg 8x10 for circa 1999-2006 Made in USA era, just drop me a message and I'll contact you both. I'd need just £350 so that's what I paid.

    Screenshot 2021-04-11 at 20.52.33.png

  4. 1970 Ampeg B15N (middle of blueline era), all original, with THAT square magnet 15” speaker. Gone throught major cleaning and mainteance (grounded power cord, power supply eletrolytic caps replaced, NOS tubes + new 5AR4, bias set, pots cleaned and preserved and also cabinet damping changed to non-toxic/harm material). 120V (needs external stepdown transformer - cost around 40-50EUR)

    Sounds absolutely AWESOME. Perfect recording amp, especially with EV RE20 mic or large condenser (I love Soyuz mics on it) 

    Can ship to EU/UK.

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  5. @Reggaebass EDIT: forgot about one VERY IMPORTANT thing. It's a must to replace the damping material inside the cab. It's very dangerous for health (its "particles") not to mention it will mess with speaker too. Replace with foam that has qual damping factor to the factory "wool". It only needs a bit of damping. Not much. Too thick/too heavy and will mess with cab overall capacity. 

    These all things should be done when you're serious about B15N performance. 

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  6. On 25/11/2020 at 21:02, Reggaebass said:

    Do they require a lot of maintenance boroman , or once they are set up are they good for years 

    I'd say good for years. 

    They key to the sound is to find one with original speaker and original output transformer. What absolutely needs to be done for safety, great sound and reliability is -

    - re-cap all the power supply
    - clean and preserve potentiometers
    - remove "death cap" (can kill you someday, no joke!!!)
    -  replace bias cap and put variable resistor for precise bias setting (on fixed bias amps)
    - install 3-prong grounded power cable, remove polarity switch wiring
    - cut the high voltage "protection" circuit from speaker cable (causes hum, can kill your speaker and output transformer, can shock you with +450V)

    Other things worth doing (if needed): replace the seal between cab and head, re-fit the speaker frame, clean or re-cone the speaker, change the speaker cable to 1/4" connection and good speaker wire

    What you should NOT do - change caps/resistors in the signal/channel circuit - they have their own sound we do love. And 99,99% times they don't need replacing. Also, don't put 6550 tubes and stuff like that, you'd kill the OT.

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  7. 13 minutes ago, Chimike said:

    In the right circumstances, a well maintained 60's B15 is just such a joy to play. Was never designed to go up against Marshal stacks ! Mine hums a bit , at the 'mo, so I need to check it out, but I use it's little brother, the SB12 at open mikes with acoustic guitars. I have put a deltalite in the cab, so the efficiency helps.

    Just Magic !

    I do have other amps, if I need more volume !

    Horses for Courses.

    And there are modern clones available, if reliability is paramount.

    If you'd ever need re-cap, preservation, retube or repair of SB12, B15N, let me know. I have worked on like 30+ of them... Still have three on my workbench right now.

    I always dig more 68-79 era, with thiele cabs and square magnet CTS/Eminence speakers, but it's just my personal opinion... I've gone throught single baffles, double baffles, custom "factory upgrade" speakers (JBLs, Altecs etc). Of course a lot off bass players come to my place and they'd choose the early ones, etc. They all do have the same soul, and they all sound quite about the same close mic-d. Difference is usually in the open space

  8. 4 hours ago, Hellzero said:

    What about the pickup date stamps (on both parts) ?

    L series serial # ?

     

    I think stamps were put in 1968 or 69. Basses up to late 64 does not have any dates (black bottoms), and between late 1964-68 they have penciled dates. it's 12-24-64 on one of the pickups. neck is "JAN65C", pots are 6512. Serial on the neck plate L600XX

    4 hours ago, JoeM said:

    Hi, is this now sold?

     

    Still available. I have listed it now on ebay.co.uk but with fees included.

    • Thanks 1
  9. 1 minute ago, umcoo said:

    Pics!

    Will try to post tomorrow! Need to make some shots. But it's the same unit without matamp logo like here: http://orangefieldguide.com/OFG_MAT200.htm - I have never seen another one like this, and these were one of the VERY last ones made. Some resistor values (amp was dead stock) were a bit different than in Ormat schematic I got but they still were stock. E.g. 100k vs 150k resistors etc... might be a just a circuit tweak that happened over the years. 

    • Like 1
  10. I was able to finally buy one! The first thing I did was full re-cap and screen grind resistor change (bigger value/bigger wattage). So the amp will not blow using current production KT88s which are nowhere near to the GEC KT88 these were designed for. The same sound, more reliability.

    • Like 3
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