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boroman

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About boroman

  • Birthday 23/07/1983

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  1. So, Rickenbackers are now allowed here? 😜 Beautiful bass btw.
  2. Amazing, period correct paintjob & relic on this one, GLWTS!
  3. Fender started using tuners marked with "registered" mark after mid 1972 - before tuners had only "Fender" written on the back. After mid 72 they're "Fender (R)" (with some design changes later in 70s, like chrome plated and plate redesign) Have you got pictures of neck stamp by any chance? that may help Below photo of both
  4. Beautiful bass! I'll date it no earlier than mid 1972 (because of that tuners).
  5. I've read they might do something about it in the near future. I mean customs-less deal between EU and UK Anyway - I always could send it with neck off, with a smaller parcel like "bass parts" with lower value
  6. I will try to check when I get back to the studio tomorrow but around 9 LBS
  7. This story is quite sad. Like half year ago i bought Ampeg 8x10 from a guy in Wales. Paid 350. But because of COVID and my family I'm stuck in Poland and can't reach that. Somehwere between Llandrindod and Birmingham. If you want to have all original Ampeg 8x10 for circa 1999-2006 Made in USA era, just drop me a message and I'll contact you both. I'd need just £350 so that's what I paid.
  8. Circa 1974 Ampeg V4 Great sounding "baby SVT" NOS/new tubes (e.g. 1970s Philips EGC's on power amp) Pots/switches cleaned, 3-prong power cord installed, "death cap" removed. 120V (needs ext. stepdown transformer) Canship to EU/UK
  9. 1970 Ampeg B15N (middle of blueline era), all original, with THAT square magnet 15” speaker. Gone throught major cleaning and mainteance (grounded power cord, power supply eletrolytic caps replaced, NOS tubes + new 5AR4, bias set, pots cleaned and preserved and also cabinet damping changed to non-toxic/harm material). 120V (needs external stepdown transformer - cost around 40-50EUR) Sounds absolutely AWESOME. Perfect recording amp, especially with EV RE20 mic or large condenser (I love Soyuz mics on it) Can ship to EU/UK.
  10. Here I am - take a look at my profession @ www.beevinyl.com If you have any questions, let me know!
  11. * blonde, not OWH. As far as I remember, OWH were put on alder bodies and this is ash.
  12. boroman

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    @Reggaebass EDIT: forgot about one VERY IMPORTANT thing. It's a must to replace the damping material inside the cab. It's very dangerous for health (its "particles") not to mention it will mess with speaker too. Replace with foam that has qual damping factor to the factory "wool". It only needs a bit of damping. Not much. Too thick/too heavy and will mess with cab overall capacity. These all things should be done when you're serious about B15N performance.
  13. boroman

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    I'd say good for years. They key to the sound is to find one with original speaker and original output transformer. What absolutely needs to be done for safety, great sound and reliability is - - re-cap all the power supply - clean and preserve potentiometers - remove "death cap" (can kill you someday, no joke!!!) - replace bias cap and put variable resistor for precise bias setting (on fixed bias amps) - install 3-prong grounded power cable, remove polarity switch wiring - cut the high voltage "protection" circuit from speaker cable (causes hum, can kill your speaker and output transformer, can shock you with +450V) Other things worth doing (if needed): replace the seal between cab and head, re-fit the speaker frame, clean or re-cone the speaker, change the speaker cable to 1/4" connection and good speaker wire What you should NOT do - change caps/resistors in the signal/channel circuit - they have their own sound we do love. And 99,99% times they don't need replacing. Also, don't put 6550 tubes and stuff like that, you'd kill the OT.
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