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goonieman

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Posts posted by goonieman

  1. [quote name='naxos10' timestamp='1500379547' post='3337288']
    I would think you need a line level input into the NAD.
    [/quote]

    yeah, this makes sense.

    FYI - I have an active musicman sterling - SB14

    Even with line out, will this not stress the speakers?

  2. Hi All,

    I guess I should know this - but I rarely use my over-spec'd (TC RS112) cab and should sell it.

    Can I use my bass head (GK MBE-150e III) going straight into my NAD amp and then into some high end 'bookshelf' speakers (Q acoustics 2010)?!

    Which outputs on the GK should I use (http://gallienkrueger.mivamerchant.net/wp-content/uploads/MB150-III-Manual.pdf)?

    It will only be living room levels (flat/ apartment).

    Cheers!

  3. Hi All,

    I have a hifi rig i'd like to boost with a woofer... a TC RS112.

    The amp is a NAD 3020i - it has the stand connectors for left and right channels (screw connectors - 2 for each channel).

    How would I even begin adding the TC to this mix, considering speaker load and all that drama?

    I'm pretty newto this stuff - and have not been able to find anything online.

    cheers!

  4. [quote name='Chiliwailer' timestamp='1465848225' post='3071600']
    Damn, that's going to be expensive...

    Looks like it's a CS bass with Aguillar pickup and preamp.

    I'll miss the Modulus sound, but then it's been 18 years so a change can't be bad. (Edit, or is it nearly 20? Wow time flew)

    [/quote]

    yeah, i'd be tempted to do a partscaster in that. I guess the Jazz wasn't really cutting through live... and he must have grown into the feel of the Jazz.

    It's a great recording... and his tone is nice and round, with a thumping growl underneath. Not as clacky or cutting as the modulus.

  5. [quote name='Funky Dunky' timestamp='1465650398' post='3069946']
    Truss rod adjustment terrifies me. I really need to find my measuring tool before I attempt any adjustments though.
    [/quote]

    yep, but tweaking it is a right of passage! Just remember to always go lefty loosely a little first before going back right (if you need to). Never turn more than a an eighth of a turn at a time without checking.

    Also, don't believe that crap about leaving the bass for hours or even days before checking it again. You will see the difference in the relief in a matter of minutes, if not seconds.

  6. [quote name='Funky Dunky' timestamp='1465643137' post='3069861']
    I'll change the strings. I reckon it must be the Pure Blues - lower tension. I'm actually gonna throw some flats on it, and will take it from there. Thanks, guys, and Grangur - thank you for the in-depth tutorial - I'll run that test and take it from there.
    [/quote]

    You don't have to try flats JUST because of the clak! (unless you were already pre-disposed to flats <_< ). Just follow grangurs advice (although I would use an actual measuring tool personally).

    It will take 10 mins - and will give resounding information for the future. I'd measure you favourite bass (i.e. your favourite setup on your basses) and try to more or less copy that on the Jazz. The tension of the strings is a factor in clak, but nowhere near as much as neck relief and string height, as well as playing style of course.

    ...and yeah, setup 'from the factory' is almost completely null and void by now, even if (big IF) it was done remotely well.

  7. [quote name='ped' timestamp='1465594391' post='3069606']
    You may need some more relief (forward bow) in the neck. Personally I play very lightly and like a clack when I dig in, so I have my necks very straight, but usually you need some relief to allow for the strings to vibrate...
    [/quote]

    In addition to the above, I agree with Generale, a bit of clack can be good. I have my neck almost dead straight too, with very low action (too low for some). Personally, I think it adds a lovely growly character to the overall mix.

  8. I can tell you if you tell me the height of the E and G strings at the 12fret (1st fret capoed and un-capoed) and what also what is the relief (1st and last fret depressed, measured at 8-9th fret)?

  9. I'll double check that - but I tried one last thing last night when all the lights (dimmers!) were off : no buzz at all. Dead silent.

    Turns out it's the damn lights... but even more strangely, sometimes they are on and there is no effect. It seems there is some kind of external interference as well... like neighbours lighting system or something.

  10. Hi guys,

    I have a nice fretless that is giving me some ground hum i think. It only buzzes when I touch the pickup cover (plastic - but I assume its conductive...) it's worse on the bridge pup then the neck pup.

    If I touch the copper shielding inside the cavity or the bridge it goes totally silent. Withuot any touching at all there is a mild buzzing. As I said, it gets much buzzer when I touch the pup. It's weird because the pup is grounded!

    Any ideas? thanks

    EDIt: when I touch the wires that go to either pickup, the hum gets worse too!

  11. Good grief... that is a thing of great beauty. I thought they had slab boards in those days though?

    EDIT: my bad

    [color=#242424][font=verdana, geneva, lucida,]Rosewood fingerboard, "Veneer", 1962-1980: from August 1962 till 1980, Fender used a curved bottom rosewood fingerboard that was much thinner than the slab 'board. The veneer of rosewood got even thinner by mid 1963."[/font][/color]

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