DanH71

[quote name='Grangur' timestamp='1497543802' post='3319030'] I totally failed to find a clip of these in use. So I bought his P-bass pups and they're good. No, I don't have a recording, and Barefaced Bass have them at the mo' doing some testing. Installation would be the same.. You could also watch the video I linked too. JC, in the vid is installing dual-coil Aguilar pups. [/quote] Videos very helpful, thanks. Yeh, couldn't find anything in terms of JL clip myself. Never knew aquilar did pickups! just recently bought a Tonehammer 350:hmmm

[quote name='Grangur' timestamp='1497543275' post='3319016'] You can't go wrong with Barts. They're good, but why not go for a hum cancelling pup. Jess Loureiro does some great, hand wound pups. [url="http://jlguitars.eu/shop/index.php?id_category=16&controller=category&id_lang=4"]http://jlguitars.eu/...egory&id_lang=4[/url] [/quote] Thanks for the tip. As they cancel hum do the require any addional procedures/install or is it a straight swap for these too? I will see if I can find a clip of them being used somewhere. Cheers

[quote name='Paul S' timestamp='1497543119' post='3319012'] You don't necessarily need to solder. Open the access panel at the back, find the pickup wires, take a picture of which one goes where, snip them and then use a screw terminal for rejoining the new pickup wires. [/quote] Cheers Paul, But what is the access panel? Is it the chrome plate on which there are the tone and pickup volumes?

[quote name='Grangur' timestamp='1497542921' post='3319008'] Your link doesn't work for some reason. Try this one: [url="https://www.bartolini.net/product/9su-ls/"]https://www.bartolin...product/9su-ls/[/url] Those shouldn't need a battery. So it should be a straight case of 1-out, 1-in. [url="https://youtu.be/fajbgkT7Lcw"]http://youtu.be/fajbgkT7Lcw[/url] [/quote] Thanks @Grangur, So I was looking at these but then I saw on that page the menu for wiring and got scared and ran away. But if I can just swap them out (checking my pickup aperture sizes 1st;) these could be good. Do you have any experience with these pickups or any else for that matter that are potential candidates?

Hi, noob to DIY BASS style. so apart from the obvious [screw driver and steady hands] what do I need to change my pups? im talking in terms of what type of solder to hook up the pickups to the existing wiring? [not looking to perform electrical open heart surgery by ripping pout the old wiring] haven't decided on what pups yet but would like a. something that is jazzy and excels in bridge pickup type jaco growl b. a product that doesn't require new wiring or batteries etc so far look at the Di Marzio Model J, Fender Custom Shop 60 and Bartolini 9SU/LS [https://www.bartolini.net/product/9su-ls/] but not sure if the barts are gonna need new wiring or any additional elements [batteries etc]. just want nice pick ups plug and play style;) any recommendations and a heads up on solder type would be great! thanks

Cheers Shockwave. Yes, the body really does weigh some. Appreciate these basses aren't anything spectacular but I'm really liking the sound and feel of mine (not touched my VM squier since) Gotoh 204-1B is ordered and I was looking into new pups but I'm really liking the sound at present. Hope to have this as my project bass that I can evolve over time.

[quote name='jezzaboy' timestamp='1497470900' post='3318536'] Dan. The E bay link looks like a genuine Tokia, one of the newer models that are made in China. [/quote] Hey Jazzboy, That's interesting. Several of the folk on the Tokai forum said it was a 'Fakai' (fake Tokai) because they said the decal was incorrect and the serial no wasn't a valid one. I only looked at this bass on eBay as I was trying to identify my own bass (seen in the my post) and I noticed it had a similar body and the same bridge that I have with the 7 screw mount. It's certainly not easy to know if something is genuine or not!

[quote name='SpondonBassed' timestamp='1497462232' post='3318418'] I liked it better when you said "...Then on to the pubs..." I'd have drunk to that then sat back to see what pickups you favour. Heeheehee [/quote] Haha;) Pups ,,,pubs .. they both amplify the real you!

[quote name='Jean-Luc Pickguard' timestamp='1497458075' post='3318355'] I'll try to explain: The curve of the pickguard doesn't look like it follows the curve of the lower (treble side) horn as evenly as a Fender - I can see a bit of a gap there where more of the body finish is visible. It looks like that part of the pickguard should extend a little lower. [/quote] Thanks JLP. Yes the scratch plate is certainly a sign of lack of quality and could lead to it being an SX body. I have put up photos of my bass on the Tokai Registry Forum and some seem to think I have a Chinese low line built Tokai. Either way, I'm not bothered. I actually like the body and neck so plan to get an Omega/Badass/Hipshot A and new scratchplate to breathe new life into this familiar and feel good bass. Then on to the pups and maybe then the neck. The body is pretty hefty and solid so it's a good base to build on.

@Jean-Luc, Thanks for the info but not sure about to what you're referring when you talk of. Strange gap?

Thanks guys for the replies.. So the plot thickens... I suspected because if the difference between my guitars 7 screw bridge (5 Fender like and 2 at the front of the bridge facing the bridge pickup) that it wasn't a Tokai (I've not seen one with such a bridge, does anyone know any different?)... Then I find on ebay a seller with an item he professes to be a Tokai AB -LPBR (lake placid blue), which isn't a real code as far as I can see, with a stated bridge of BB-VBC, which comparing to Tokai images with BB-VBC bridges that it isn't (7 as opposed to 5 screws). Could anyone confirm that Tokai don't nor ever had 7 screw bridges before I report the guy (who has a shop) on eBay???? His guitar seems to have an SX headstock/neck with dodgy decal: http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/Tokai-Electric-Jazz-Sound-Bass-Guitar-4-string-AJB-LPBR-WITH-GIG-BAG-TUNER-b-/322520018526?hash=item4b17b0ee5e%3Ag%3AEagAAOSwxKtYA%7EQ1&_trkparms=pageci%253A242ce49a-507f-11e7-97e5-74dbd1807b7c%257Cparentrq%253Aa35af29b15c0ab66ae5f7b1dffff064f%257Ciid%253A1 I take it the price is rather generous too that he is offering.

[quote name='DanH71' timestamp='1497378687' post='3317713'] Thanks for the replies. How do I tell if there's trust rod adjustment ? [/quote] I'm guessing it's the cavity at the base of the headstock that has a screw inside;) To add to my confusion and muddy the waters in my search for its origin I've Now seen a Lake Placid Blue SX bass with the cavity on the heel of the headstock so how do I differentiate between the two to know if I have an SX or tokai!? I looked around and can't find a tokai with screws at the pick up facing side of the bridge so does this point to it being an SX more than tokai?

Thanks for the replies. How do I tell if there's trust rod adjustment ?

Any help on identifying (date and place of production) on my newly acquired bass... So at closer inspection and by comparing it to other guitars I suspect I could have a tokai bass That has had its headstock sprayed and dodgy Fender decal put on. The bridge and its spacing to the pickup seem to be identical to the tokai as does the Fender jazz bass shaped headstock With its more acute and poorly rounded floor facing contour. Also the more rounded tip on the lower horn of the scratch plate seems To be like several tokai bases I have seen as is the more acute bevel of the body. The neck plate seems to have no serial though so don't know if this was replaced to disguise the fact It wasn't a fender (without bothering to put a fender one on in its place;) Slightly dissapointed it's not in part some rare Fender gem but I understand to that some tokai jazz basses are sought after..it certainly sounds very good with the basic pickups it has (very jazzy) Question is, how can I tell what tokai I do have (year and place of production)? looking here: http://www.tokairegi...kai-fender.html It illustrates that all tokai j-basses carried a fender copy ID number on the neck plate. My bass doesn't have such a number (it's blank) so how can I tell if I have an actual tokai other than going on a gut feeling/suspicion. Is there another tell tale sign other than this plate mark or the headstock decal (that I don't have)? Would there be a stamp on the body behind the neck that tells a tale? The headstock shape certainly looks like and meets the description of a post Fender law suit headstock by Tokai (anywhere from 82-86).. Thanks

So looking here: http://www.tokairegistry.com/tokai-info/tokai-fender.html It illustrates that all tokai j-basses carried a fender copy ID number on the neck plate. My bass doesn't have such a number (it's blank) so how can I tell if I have an actual tokai other than going on a gut Feeling from my above observations (last post)? Is there another tell tale sign other than this plate mark or the headstock decal (that I don't have)? The headstock shape certainly looks like and meets the description of a post Fender law suit (anywhere from 82-86)..

Just an update on my newly acquired bass... So at closer inspection and by comparing it to other guitars I suspect I could have a tokai bass That has had its headstock sprayed and dodgy Fender decal put on. The bridge and its spacing to the pickup seem to be identical to the tokai as does the Fender jazz bass shaped headstock With its more acute and poorly rounded floor facing contour. Also the more rounded tip on the lower horn of the scratch plate seems To be like several tokai bases I have seen as is the more acute bevel of the body. The neck plate seems to have no serial though so don't know if this was replaced to disguise the fact It wasn't a fender (without bothering to put a fender one on in its place;) Slightly dissapointed it's not in part some rare Fender gem but I understand to that some tokai jazz basses are sought after..it certainly sounds good with the basic pickups it has (very jazzy) Question is, how can I tell what tokai I do have (year and place of production)? Thanks Dan

[quote name='Dad3353' timestamp='1496925547' post='3314740'] I'd leave the headstock alone, and just enjoy the bass. "What's in a name..? A rose [i]etc[/i]..." [/quote] Dad3353, I could not agree more. that's why I want it removed as Fender is only a name, which isn't descriptive of what it is [as far as I know;]

[quote name='SpondonBassed' timestamp='1496920638' post='3314672'] Aw Heeheehee. What makes the Fender decal "dodgy" then? Is the guitar a Gibson copy or summat? Edit; I've just found this and answered my own question; [url="http://basschat.co.uk/topic/303932-i-dont-get-the-whole-putting-a-fender-decal-on-a-non-fender-bass-thing/page__view__findpost__p__3314264"]http://basschat.co.u...ost__p__3314264[/url] [/quote] neck is unknown..but for £116 i know I haven't just picked up an american vintage 64. Guy who im getting it from got it from another guy who was also upfront about its non authenticity, but thats all I know. its my bitsa bass and Im not worried about being seen playing something other than Fender. In fact i may design and put on my own decal.

[quote name='samhay' timestamp='1496922615' post='3314700'] A further tweak to the Stanley blade scrapper technique - which is what I would try first - is to add a bur. See here: [url="http://www.frets.com/FretsPages/Luthier/Technique/Finish/RazorScrape/razorscrape1.html"]http://www.frets.com...zorscrape1.html[/url] [/quote] samhay, that is gold right there! big thanks

[quote name='Grangur' timestamp='1496915517' post='3314637'] This. You need to hold the blade in your fingers with the long sharp edge flat to the surface and scrape towards you. Allow the blade edge to tilt back, so it will be at, something like a 45 degree angle. Use it as a scraper, but dragging, not pushing. So think of it as being like a window squeegee, not a wall-paper scraper. This method is also good for getting a smooth surface on wood. So, as Norris says; it's used in wood furniture. Which is the industry in which I learned to do it. [/quote] [quote name='Grangur' timestamp='1496915715' post='3314639'] I would still scrape it, but go gently. Then finish it after with very fine wet & dry. Then lacquer it. [/quote] thanks Grangur! very helpful indeed. much appreciated. Dan

case closed

Thanks Norris, very helpful! SpondonBassed, not so much..

Thanks to both Roger2611 and Grangur. @Grangur so do you try to get as horizontal to the headstock and decal as possible and try to lift of the decal by getting under it? Not sure how to scrape at it and don't want to leave it like a subject of Jack the Ripper!

[quote name='tonyquipment' timestamp='1496864164' post='3314400'] Personally I would just belt sand it off lol Obv I would re-lacquer it and stuff. Don't take my word for it! [/quote] Yeh...that's a lot of work and I don't have any tools of the trade to do so. Was hoping for a less extreme approach;) Cheers though

Hi, So wanting to remove a dodgy Fender decal of the headstock off a recent purchase and looking for he best method to do so. Haven't got the bass yet so can't see if the decal is under a coat but interested to know if anybodies experience with trying to do so. I could keep the Fender decal on there (believe it's the kind that comes with the American vintage 64 j-bass but leaning towards applying my own custom decal instead (I'm not proud;). Any ideas? Dan