Gottastopbuyinggear

These are the best I've used:

Richard bought my Purple Chili cab. Very easy transaction all round, and I'd be more than happy to do business with him again.

...and now sold.

On hold.

[quote name='fryer' timestamp='1462256090' post='3041430']
If you could sent it around 100 miles East, I'll buy it. Richard
[/quote]

Sent you a PM

[quote name='fryer' timestamp='1462208440' post='3041128']
Hi. Can you tell me the size, weight, power ?
[/quote]

Ah, that was a bit of an obvious omission! Here's what the web site used to say:

Celestion BN12 300S Neo driver
300 watts RMS
8 ohm
40Hz - 3KhzH
H 49cm - W 52cm - D 41.2cm (excluding feet)
Weight 12.7kg

Powder coated metal grille, Road ready metal handles, Metal protection corners, Neutrik speakon connectors, Pro 1/4" jack connectors, "Pure Look" retro styling

[quote name='kevvo66' timestamp='1462022725' post='3039689']
My old cab I remember the sunken piping good cabs,glwts
[/quote]

More than happy to sell it back to you if nostalgia strikes!

Finally had the chance to make some progress. Box built, hole for speakon plate cut, and corners radiused. Had a bit of an issue with a little tear out on one surface, but that can be the bottom of the cab so no real issue.

[url="http://s1172.photobucket.com/user/andrewjdowden/media/1x12%20Build/IMG_0460_zpsyyzz1a3i.jpg.html"][/url]



[url="http://s1172.photobucket.com/user/andrewjdowden/media/1x12%20Build/IMG_0464_zpsjeqvryju.jpg.html"][/url]


Also cut the ports...

[url="http://s1172.photobucket.com/user/andrewjdowden/media/1x12%20Build/IMG_0466_zpsrynouz7m.jpg.html"][/url]

That's a can of Tuff Cab lurking in the corner, so I'm nearly ready to start painting. Just need to paint the baffle and inside of the recess black first, and I have some matt black acrylic spray for doing that.

I need to decide how to fix the ports in place - any clues from those with some experience?

Bump

For sale is my Purple Chili PCB112NT cab. I bought this from a fellow BC'er a few months ago, though then it was advertised locally on Gumtree and not on here. I've used it a few times myself in rehearsals paired with an Ampeg PF500 or a GK MB200 - it sounds great and keeps up with a reasonably loud drummer with no problem.

[url="http://s1172.photobucket.com/user/andrewjdowden/media/Purple%20Chili%20PCB112NT/2016-04-23_160742_zpsh53ogloy.jpg.html"][/url]

Some blurb from the Purple Chili web site (page no longer there, I believe):

[i]Celestion BN12 300S Neo driver[/i]
[i]300 watts RMS[/i]
[i]8 ohm [/i]
[i]40Hz - 3KhzH[/i]
[i]H 49cm - W 52cm - D 41.2cm (excluding feet)[/i]
[i]Weight 12.7kg[/i]

[i]Powder coated metal grille, Road ready metal handles, Metal protection corners, Neutrik speakon connectors, Pro 1/4" jack connectors, "Pure Look" retro styling[/i]


I'm looking for £200, and at the moment would prefer to avoid shipping. I can deliver locally in the Cardiff area, and within reason in North/East Swansea (I work in Swansea Vale) or the area close to the M4 between the two, although this would have to be on a weekday evening only. Not looking for trades at the moment.

It's in pretty good cosmetic condition - there are a couple of minor scuffs on the tolex on the top and top front edge, and a couple on the back. Also the white piping has sunk into it's recess a bit on the top. More pictures here - I've tried to show all the imperfections in the tolex: [url="http://s1172.photobucket.com/user/andrewjdowden/library/Purple%20Chili%20PCB112NT"]http://s1172.photobu...hili%20PCB112NT[/url]

The reason I'm moving this on is simply space, or rather lack of it. I'm in the process of building the first of a pair of 1x12s based on the Basschat 1x12 thread, as a result of which my gear storage area (also known as the space under the stairs) is a bit oversubscribed, to the point where one of my other cabs is currently living in the boot of my car... Hence I really need to move this on soon.

Cash on collection/delivery would be great. I have a feedback thread here, but it's pretty limited since this cab is the only transaction I've ever done with another BC'er!

[quote name='tobiewharton' timestamp='1461487744' post='3034944']
Thanks guys. Are there generally additional costs other than postage to import necks from the US?
[/quote]

Oh yes. You'll have to pay VAT and import duty - I can't remember for sure from the last time I looked into it, but I think import duty would be around 3% for a neck from the US. You may get away without the import duty depending on the total value, but remember that you'll pay VAT on the total including the shipping costs. Depending on the carrier you may get stung for a fee by them too.

Not trying to put you off (I've bought stuff from the US before), but just pointing out you need to consider the fees involved, otherwise you could get a nasty shock.

[quote name='rodney72a' timestamp='1461160482' post='3031992']
Decal looks like a replacement.

[/quote]

The whole neck looks like a replacement to my untrained eye.

I have a P with flats and a J with rounds. Been gassing for a while for another P to put rounds on, but also been gassing for a Squier VM Jazz (in natural, blocks and bound). Had absolutely no way to try and justify a second J, even to myself, and then you come along and resurrect this thread that I've not seen before...

[quote name='Callumjord' timestamp='1460889909' post='3029515']
Has anybody placed an eq pedal between the amp and cab to remove any boomy/boxy frequencys?
[/quote]

Possibly not the best place for it - I'd guess it would be removing all frequencies pretty quickly!

If you have an effect loop in your amp then putting it in there might work, but even then I'd guess that the frequency bands would be too wide to be able to target anything, and you'd really need a parametric to give you a chance of doing that.

Can't speak for the Hartke, but the PF500 is a great amp. I'm just back from a first rehearsal with a new band (well, half of it's new), where I've been playing mine through the matching Ampeg 115, and it sounds great. Hope you like it!

Thanks Phil. I've already built one box as far as top, bottom, sides and rear panel. Basic approach was pretty much exactly as you said, with one exception in that I built back, sides and bottom with the top going on last, with the baffle piece in there to help keep it square. From looking at other build diaries I'd guessed that the usual approach was to build a sleeve and glue the back in afterwards, but I felt that I'd get more glue in the edges of the baffle piece if I did it that way. I'm not sure if I've missed a glaringly obvious reason for not doing it that way?!

I'm pretty confident that it'll be well sealed given the amount of glue squeeze out I had, but I'll probably use caulk as well. I've yet to make the second box, so I can change the approach for that if it'll give me any benefit.

Fortunately I've plenty of off-cuts the same width as the baffle so cutting a couple for side to side bracing should be easy, and likewise I have plenty for vane braces on the back panel. I should probably have put those on before gluing the baffle in, but I'm happy I can "clamp" them by putting the cab on its back and putting some heavy weight on them while the glue dries.

Looking forward to making some more progress, but work and other things have a habit of getting in the way so I'm not sure when I'll get the chance which is a bit frustrating.

Having thought about it I'm going to buy one of those hole saw sets from Aldi. But I'm a self confessed gear snob, so I'm planning to give them a light rubbing down with some 800 grit, and apply a few home made "Makita" decals.

Thanks Phil and BotB, I hadn't thought about those points. Though I have to say as the potential seller of a couple of lightly used commercial cabs in the near future (based on the impending success of my basschat 1x12, of course) my gear is always placed carefully in the back of the van rather than chucked.

Aldi hole saws - how much?! The look of the cheapie ebay things that Stevie and BotB used scared the sh*t out of me so I bought a hole cutter from Wickes, but I'm ashamed to say how much it cost me. Let's just say my wallet feels violated. And that was just a single cutter.

Can I just take the opportunity to add yet another comment to a thread about what a great community Basschat can be at times, with people sharing their experience so freely and taking time to respond to numerous questions. Cheers all!

[quote name='Beer of the Bass' timestamp='1459516144' post='3017334']
That's a much better way of doing the baffle holes than my "freehand with a jigsaw followed by lots of cleanup" method!
[/quote]

There's a certain obsessive-compulsive part of me that appreciates a very neat and precise result, but there's another part that will hack out the hole for the speakon plate with a jigsaw because I can't be bothered to make a template for that!

Hi Stevie, yes I'll definitely use battens all round for the baffle rather than gluing it, but not so sure about the back panel yet. Being a belt and braces type I'll probably go for it, but I might check what the weight is like first, though the difference will probably be negligible

Likewise I'll probably go for some minimal bracing as suggested by Phil in response to my question over on the Basschat 1x12 thread, though I have been poking around in my Purple Chili 112 cab (not too easy, but managed to take a few photos with an iPhone) and also my Ampeg PF115HE (very easy - the lid comes off...) and there's none that I can see in the PC, and only a single vane type brace in the Ampeg, hence the question.

The other question that came to mind from looking at the Ampeg cab was about the importance of sealing. I've read a lot about making sure the glue is well spread in order to ensure a good seal, and I'll probably use some form of caulk as well (like I said, belt and braces), but the lid on the Ampeg cab is only sealed with some gasket tape and is designed to be taken off frequently, so I can't help wondering whether the whole issue of sealing is a little overblown.

There were quite a few reasonable pieces left over from the sheet, so I thought I'd try to make a template for routing the baffle. I have access to a bandsaw, which I thought might be easier to set up than a router. I didn't really have much of a clue how accurate I'd be, but I wanted to make sure the fit was a close as possible as I'm planning to use T nuts to secure the driver, and I don't want to be drilling the holes for them too close to the main cut out.

The spec says 277.5mm diameter. I aimed for 278mm, and by some miracle that's what I actually got. Not bad for what is essentially one piece of ply nailed to another and rotated round...

[URL=http://s1172.photobucket.com/user/andrewjdowden/media/1x12%20Build/IMG_0444_zpsykqpaaf8.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1172.photobucket.com/albums/r573/andrewjdowden/1x12%20Build/IMG_0444_zpsykqpaaf8.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

I'll be waiting for the driver to arrive and checking it really does fit before I route the baffle, though!

Having thought about doing a 2x10 build for a little while, but being a novice at this sort of thing, I've decided to have a go instead at the basschat 1x12 (or hopefully something very much like it - I'm building in advance of the full write up, and my DIY skills aren't always the best!).

There's a few reasons for going 1x12 for a first build but most importantly it's the opportunity to build the thing that I've been reading about for some time, and the fact that it seems to be pretty well received by the (albeit relatively limited?) audience that's heard it so far.

I've bought enough materials to build two cabs, although only ordered a single driver so far, since the cost of the driver itself is the best part of half the cost of the cab. I plan to build both cabs and once I'm sure that I'm happy with the sound I'll order the second driver.

I got the ply from Avon Plywood in Bristol, and they've cut it (very accurately) to size. I've gone for 18mm Poplar, so it wasn't cheap - just a shade under £60 +VAT for the full sheet, so a total of about £82 including VAT and cutting. The small cutting cost seems like an absolute bargain to me - I don't have a circular saw, and I didn't fancy using a router to square every edge.

I'm not sure whether to reinforce every joint with a batten, but I've cut enough to enable me to do so. Raw materials so far, including template for routing the baffle:

[URL=http://s1172.photobucket.com/user/andrewjdowden/media/1x12%20Build/IMG_0442_zpsctww53in.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1172.photobucket.com/albums/r573/andrewjdowden/1x12%20Build/IMG_0442_zpsctww53in.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

[URL=http://s1172.photobucket.com/user/andrewjdowden/media/1x12%20Build/IMG_0447_zpsfv93bgxe.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1172.photobucket.com/albums/r573/andrewjdowden/1x12%20Build/IMG_0447_zpsfv93bgxe.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

Right, one more question and then I'll try and shut up. Actually, two more...

Terminology point here perhaps about what "front" and "rear" mount means - I assume you're mounting the driver from the front of the cab, i.e. the driver will sit just proud of the baffle on the outside, but from what I can see the Beyma only has a sealing gasket on the front of the driver? Do you need some form of gasket on the rear to mount it?

Also, from the drawings it seems the baffle sits 30mm back from the front of the cab - is there a specific reason for that, as it seems quite a deep recess? I'd probably be thinking about leaving a smaller recess and then adjusting the port length to account for the additional volume if necessary.

So that's actually three questions, or four if you count the assumption...

Phil, can you give us a rough idea of what the bracing will be like for the 18mm cab? I notice you said that the unbraced 18mm cab vibrated less that the braced 12mm cab, so I'm wondering whether it's absolutely necessary to brace at all?

Following my post a few days ago I now have the Beyma driver on order, and I also have my plywood, so I'm eager to get going - I'll start a build thread when I do, as I don't want to hijack this thread, but hopefully at the moment I'm asking questions that other people might also have. Current plan is to build the basic box but not glue the baffle in straight away, so I can try different port lengths if I feel the need to experiment. I'm hoping that some gasket tape on the battens to which I'll screw the baffle will provide a good enough seal.

Anyone else got one (or more) of these in progress yet?

The post your pedalboard thread is pinned, and I had got quite used to this one being the same.

Personally I think you should stick it, if you see what I mean...