Pbassred

I think that DHL paket must be a different service to DHL. Picked up on the Tuesday. New years day (Friday) was a holiday. It didn't move from Koln until Monday and its been stuck at "The shipment has arrived in the destination country" for 2 days. It hasn't even got to Parcelforce yet. So the lesson is "don't rely on DHL anytime around Xmas". Its "Wednesday now. I might get it by Friday.

Oddly enough I had the same thing with mine.I made myself an Isolation riser ( I didn't realize that you could buy them!) except the I made some of the rear foot detachable, so the cab leans back a 5 - 10 degrees and its 3 inches higher anyway. Its not much but it made a difference.

[quote name='Merton' timestamp='1451735392' post='2942878'] Remember also that an 8 ohm cab is only 8 ohm at certain frequency/ies - it's higher than that the rest of the time. So the difference between 8, 6 and 4 is basically the number an not an awful lot else. [/quote] Not really. The maker's stated impedance is the [i]nominal[/i] (within a degree of accuracy) across [b]a range[/b] of frequencies. Slightly lower at lower frequencies and increasing at the high end. As a guide, the DC (no frequency) resistance of an "8ohm" driver is about 6 ohms. The point is, that at the same frequencies that an 8 ohm driver is[i] actually[/i] 8 ohms, the 4ohm driver will be [i]actually[/i] 4 ohms. They don't cross into each other's range. They are still different. You still don't want 2 X 4ohm cabs in parallel. (buuzzzzert poof!) On the other hand, if you're saying that the only real difference (in a solid state system) between 4, 6, or 8ohms is ego, then I completely agree. I have also been that idiot and paid the price in complexity and inflexibility. If Barefaced had made the Super 12T in 8 ohms, I'd have bitten his hand off for it. One day I might even ask about a driver switch.

I don't own a home practice amp, and anyway why would i want to practice with a different amp with different controls etc? I have a Littlemark Tube 800 and a Barefaced super 12T (4 ohm). Its too loud for a 5 piece soul band, never mind an office. So I'm thinking, what about making a cab with a 4 - 6inch 32ohm driver. Or make a power soak l-pad - but its a lot of power to dissipate. How bad could that be?

Anyway with 2 X12ohm cabs you're running at 6ohms. The difference between that and 4 ohms is maybe 1db, but a lot less heat stress on the amp. You just got a fist full of extra db by using a more efficient cabinet. There are a whole bunch of comb filtering/ floor resonance/ speaker angle/ placement issues to worry about (or just don't) before 1db shows up on your tonal radar. If you NEEEED that 1 db, then perhaps you need a bigger amp. but you don't. You really don't.

thanks for that

I ordered something which is coming from Germany via DHL paket. I don't think that DHL actually deliver those themselves. Does it go through Parcelfarce or the regular postoffice parcels? I was hoping that I might get it tomorrow (dec 30) but (dec 31) is looking more likely. If it all goes wrong, and its PF, they don't deliver on Saturdays and Monday is a work day - so I'm not home. I hate G.A.S.

Compressore arrived safely and on time. Working well. Cheers kev.

well padawanguz, "transformer saturation does seem like what I originally meant. I never intended to suggest that ALL of a tube sound is the transformer. Only that some of it could be added in. It looks like John K got there first.

Sorry..... how did this turn into a LMT800 slag fest? The TVR analogy is good though. More expensive to run, less reliable, the requirement to warm up/warm down the engine. Not something that you want to take to the office everyday. However you can upgrade the shocks and brakes on a Renault to get something fast and reliable that you don't have to treat like silk. My Markbass LMT800 and barefaced cab has grunt that I haven't found a use for yet. I had to make a special attenuatior to tame it. Meanwhile Back to THIS thread which is applicable to ANY amp.

I confess that I thought a search might turn up several threads, but perhaps I used the wrong terms ... I like my Littlemark tube amp although the tube is completely inaudible. Reading around what "tube sound" is it find that most of it is in the power section so a tube pre isn't going to warm it up as much as singe it. Since the intention of my amp is to use it in various volume settings (including as a DI once) a pure valve amp wouldn't suit. However I also read that much of the classic valve sound actually comes from transformer saturation. So it surprises me that no one markets a "Transformer Saturation" pedal, and no one discusses making one.

[quote] Speaker driver ratings are the same ones used for DJ speakers which run heavily compressed full range music all night. That limit assumes that you are delivering is RMS value constantly. If a bass player does that, he's a poor player. ************************************** A bit unfair perhaps? If the music/band/situation calls for it (and it could happen, I suppose!) then surely that makes you a good player? Doing what is required? Just a thought! ][/quote] Actually Conan what I meant was that a DJ is pumping out full frequency range music containing compressed instruments and a heavily compressed final mix, and it never lets up. Only ever a few db below max limit - For hours. Bass players play discreet notes. So, for a bassist to break a driver by emitting the constant power to overheat, he's not playing notes, and he's probably impossible as well. Maybe somewhere there is an art-house demand for a guy to play 2 hours of sustained feedback.

Thanks. It makes perfect sense. It would work for any pedal.

There have been a few threads about modding the older pedals to true bypass but most of the drawings are long since deleted. Does anyone have details?

I was expecting a lot more technical opinion to jump on this thread early. You're fine. The first limit of a cabs capability is its ability to cool itself. Speaker driver ratings are the same ones used for DJ speakers which run heavily compressed full range music all night. That limit assumes that you are delivering is RMS value constantly. If a bass player does that, he's a poor player. Secondly, as the speaker coil gets warm. its resistance increases. The increases in resistance causes a reduction in current - power. Thirdly, you run a 800w amplifier full on all night? Forth (and some technical backuo required) The physical resistance to moving air within the cab must cushion and therefore protect it. fifth - no one can hear the difference between 800 and 900 watts anyway. Sixth - your amp's PSU will probably sag before your speaker does.