kevin_lindsay

Down to 2 available!

Down to 3 available.

Down to 4 available.

Now down to 5 available!

Mullard capacitors (0.015uf) arrived today.

If anyone else wants to try a swapover, drop me a pm and I'll send you one as a freebie (I've got 6 available)

[IMG]http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y289/kevin_lindsay/296436BD-32F4-4AAE-9F56-30177F78127E-247-00000028BEE42123.jpg[/IMG]

Dear goodness that is tragic news. My thoughts also are with his friends and family, and with Elton, his band and crew.

At home I have all my instruments (guitars and basses) on stands. That way, they're easily accessible whenever I feel like playing any of them. Whenever I go out to gig, I can then select which instruments I feel like using. The cases are stored in a walk in cupboard in my hallway.

Edit: I just found a Taylor Doyle Dykes Desert Rose acoustic an a built in wardrobe in my bedroom - I'll need to buy another stand so I can get that out on display too! Hahaha

Pino didn't play on Don Henley's "Boys Of Summer", that was Larry. Pino played on Don's "New York Minute".

"and then one day you find, ten years have gone behind you.
No-one told you when to run, you missed the starting gun".
Time by Pink Floyd

[quote name='SlapbassSteve' timestamp='1344725406' post='1768576']
Really sounds like something I should try on my Precision, I hate that undefined tone when you roll it off a little to offset new string zing etc...


Is there a massive difference between these ones ([color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]0.015uf paper in oil cap) and those Sprague Orange Drop caps that are mentioned on here a lot? [/font][/color]
[/quote]

Drop me a PM with your address and I'll post you a Mullard 0.015uf vintage capacitor so you can try it out. Ice ordered 10 of them and they should be with me mid-week. As soon as I receive my order I'll get one off to you as a freebie.

Cyrene - if you fancy doing it also, drop me a PM and I'll post one to you also as a freebie.

Here's how the Mullard "tropical fish" capacitors look:
[IMG]http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y289/kevin_lindsay/0868105d.jpg[/IMG]

The paper in oil caps are supposed to be the best, but to be honest, I think it might be smoke and mirrors. The sane value of "orange drop" cap will still filter the same frequency range so you'd get the same result (I think).

As far as ease of changing the cap - soldering iron on, heat the existing solder connections and remove the existing cap.

Cut the leads to size on the new capacitor, heat the solder points on the pot and attach the new cap in place.

Plug in your lead and check the connections are solid and the tone pot works. Then simply screw the control plate cover back down and your set to go.

Time taken? Around 3-4 minutes. Dead easy.

No idea mate. Changing the single capacitor is about the limit of my wiring capabilities! Hahaha

The body is swamp ash. I don't have scales here at home, but it's lighter than any of my other instruments, including my Eric Johnson Strat (which is the next lightest of my instruments).

I also changed the capacitor today. A pet peeve of mine is the way the tone control on P-Basses when it's rolled off cam make the sound really dulll and muddy. So, I changed the 0.022uf capacitor on my bass to a 0.015uf paper in oil capacitor. It's made a great difference, the doings with the tone rolled off now has midrange definition and the harsh top end is all that's removed with the tone rolled fully back.

Here's the cap that was originally in place:
[IMG]http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y289/kevin_lindsay/2222f268.jpg[/IMG]

And here's the new replacement one installed
[IMG]http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y289/kevin_lindsay/73f171ed.jpg[/IMG]

I've always loved that throaty growl you get from a P-Bass with the controls fully open. However, whenever I've rolled back the tone knob on my P-Basses, I find that the sound becomes a muddy "thud" with little definition. It's funny, but on my Jazz basses I have no problem with the tone being rolled back - maybe due to Jazz Bass pickups having s different inherent tone compared to the P-Bass?

So, on my new Shell Pink P-Bass I removed the 0.022uf capacitor and replaced it with a 0.015uf paper in oil capacitor. The capacitor cost me less than £3 (thanks to eBay!), and took 2-3 minutes to remove the old one and solder in the new one.

The difference in tone is remarkable. Now, when I roll back the tone knob, the sound still has midrange definition, with only the harsh top end taken off. Wonderful! I know some guys might like the dull thud of the standard control, but for anyone who wanted more definition on their P-Basses with the tone off, this is a really easy and inexpensive tweak.

This was the original 0.022uf capacitor:
[IMG]http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y289/kevin_lindsay/2222f268.jpg[/IMG]

And here's the new capacitor in place:
[IMG]http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y289/kevin_lindsay/73f171ed.jpg[/IMG]

Here's a link to the Delta Resonator Cones website. There's a link on the right hand side where you can hear the tricone sound.
http://www.deltaresonatorcones.co.uk/tricones.html

Chris is based in a workshop at the 78 Albion Rd location - beside the Easter Rd football stadium.

Doing setups and small jobs is Chris's mainstay, just give him a call. Here's a link to his website which has a location map (you can also dee a good location view using Google street maps)

http://www.mcintyreguitars.com/

You need the cover in place, the instrument wouldn't last 10 minutes without it! Hahaha. The cones are made of really thin aluminium, so having them exposed would leave then open to dents (which would result in a dead sounding guitar very quickly). I just took the pic with the cones in place to show how the bridge acts on them.

I'm out gigging tomorrow night, so it'll be Saturday before I can get the instrument set up with the new cones in place. I'll post some pics of the reassembly and setup as I go along. I'll try and get some sound clips posted too.

I tried silver polish first - didn't work on the finish, that's why I turned to T-Cut. Not the car polish, the metal polish stuff like this:

[IMG]http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y289/kevin_lindsay/0b1e2cf4.jpg[/IMG]

The "shiny" finish isn't a mirror-like chrome look. Rather, it has a slight reflective shine, but looks like an older finish. Kinda cool.

I'm still awaiting delivery of new strings (I ordered 3 sets of D'Addario 16-56 acoustic strings)), and also awaiting the new hand spun resonator cones. It'll be great to get everything back together again.

I've never had s problem changing key. I started my playing in church in my teens, that taught me to change key on a whim, sometimes mid-tune.

I guess it gave me a mindset where I just try and adapt to whatever the lead instrument requires.

The bloke from Haircut 100?????

We were supposed to get excited about THAT?? whatever next, let's all spot the conga player from Ottowan playing for Renee and Renata???

John Taylor??? Is that who you thought it was iconic?? Dear goodness, you really need your eyes tested! Hahaha

None of us have any idea who this bloke is:

[IMG]http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y289/kevin_lindsay/aee6f292.jpg[/IMG]

Are we missing something??

I didn't get as far as 3:21, I was bored senseless by around 3:10.

I think the guy needs to develop another lesson along the lines of "don't meander, get to the point!!". Or in musical terns, "don't bore us, get to the chorus!!" hahaha

As I will have to wait for the new cones to arrive, along with some new strings (16-58 gauge. You need heavier strings to "work" the cones. Normal acoustic gauge strings don't really get the right "bite" to the resonator tone), I thought I'd try to clean up the body.

The body looks kinda cool with the dull finish, but I wondered if I could burnish it to get it a bit mire "gleamy"? I'd need to clean up the finish and then find some way to stop fingerprints or sweat dulling the finish instantly afterwards.

First step was to get a tube of T-Cut metal polish and start to clean up the dull finish. Once that was done I could apply a few coats of Mer polish to create a barrier between the metal and the elements.

So, the elbow grease, and disposal of a lot of cleaning rags takes the finish from this:

[IMG]http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y289/kevin_lindsay/1bd41ce6.jpg[/IMG]

To this:

[IMG]http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y289/kevin_lindsay/c581c3c3.jpg[/IMG]

And this:

[IMG]http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y289/kevin_lindsay/389f9b70.jpg[/IMG]

To this:

[IMG]http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y289/kevin_lindsay/bf01526d.jpg[/IMG]

I've still got some way to go, but it's looking great so far. I'll post more pics as things progress, and will post pics of the new cone installation and re-assembly.

For anyone interested, here's how the guitar looks with the cover plate off and the cones and T-Bridge assembly in place:

[IMG]http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y289/kevin_lindsay/724775ab.jpg[/IMG]