thinman

In what's a bit of a departure for me I need to learn Jamiroquai's "Love Foolosophy".

I love the bass playing on that but it's not my usual thing.

Any guidance, tips etc that anyone can offer to playing this sort of thing?

[quote name='velvetkevorkian' post='899372' date='Jul 19 2010, 08:34 PM']Across three strings I would play all the notes at the 7th fret with the same finger (probably the 3rd finger), in a kind of combination barre/rolling motion. If it was like this:
|---------------------------------------
|------------------------7--------------
|---------------------7----7------------
|---------------5-----------------------

I would play the 5th fret with my first and the 7th fret with my 3rd and 4th fingers on different strings.[/quote]


I must admit that I tend to play it like this as (for perhaps no good reason) I avoid moving my hand up and down the kneck and try to use all my fingers instead. I wouldn't play it all with my first finger (not saying it's wrong!). Moving it to where it can be played open-stringed is clever but I only gave it as starting at the 5th as an example.

Maybe I should have the courage of my convictions and accept what I do instead of worry that there must be a "conventional" way that I don't know.

I envy those players that play a flurry of notes without barely moving!

Say you were playing something that goes across the strings, i.e. same fret, what would be the recommended fingering? E.g. if the following tab makes any sense how would it be best played :



[font="Courier New"]
|---------------------------------------
|------------------------7--------------
|---------------------7----7------------
|---------------5--7--------------------
[/font]

[quote name='gilmour' post='898431' date='Jul 18 2010, 10:23 PM']My O10.5s have a 4 piezo flat array and they're great for PA. When you consider most commercially available cabs only have 1 !

As far as I'm aware most people have suggested that it's not worth changing an Omni for a Jack as the performance diff is very subtle. Size wise They're pretty much the same.

Also how do the T39s go with the Omnis?



That's really good to know, thanks.[/quote]

I use the Omni10 for my bass and the T39s for the PA.

I've got a bit of a strange PA but it works quite well - I've a pair of db Technologies Opera 405s which are bi-amped 250w+50w active and they do fairly well full range for smaller places for vocals and little bit of kick drum. For the larger places I have a crossover and send everything 120Hz upwards to the Operas and everything below via a StudioMaster 700D into the pair of T39s. Seems to work very well - sounded great in a marquee last week. Just looking for a big scrap of ply to make a "V" plate for them now. And last week a lady also found the mouth of a T39 a very handy place to keep her handbag whist dancing.

A lot more goes if there's a hint of humour/irony in it. Look at The Darkness.

Which reminds me of the worst band I ever saw. It was "Satans Empire" in 1983 at The Woolwich Tramshed. Imagine The Darkness hammed up tenfold but with no sense of humour and a singer that looked like Max Wall in spandex. At one point he jumped off the stage to threaten the soundman (who I was sat near) to accuse him of "deliberately making them sound sh1t!".

Silly man.

Actually, speaking of piezos and how pricey they are now, Leland Crooks who posts on Bill's site runs [url="http://www.speakerhardware.com"]Speaker Hardware[/url].

He's not allowed to ship Eminence to the UK as Adam Hall has the distribution rights but he tells me he can do anything else.

His 1016 piezos are only $2 (about £1.30!). Obviously there's shipping and VAT but when buying a good quantity I think it might pay in. Leland suggested UPS's flat-rate boxes that go from $10 to $50.

[quote name='RichardH' post='897819' date='Jul 18 2010, 09:48 AM']I would suggest making another Omni 10 and the use the pair for PA, rather than hacking the one you have about. Bigger boxes, but I think they would be a more capable rig. Then make the 2 Jack 110s for your bass rig. Then when you only need a mini PA, use a single Omni 10 for bass and the Jack 110s for the PA.[/quote]

Thanks for the suggestions.

My Omni 10 only has 4 piezos - I doubt that would be enough for PA? I would have thought I'd at least have to add another 4 in a flat array or even go crossfire melded?

I'm not certain I'd want to lug a pair of Omni 10s about for PA use - I already have a pair of T39 subs so I think Omni10s as tops may be a bit overkill (and I'd need a bloomin' trailer!)

Maybe I'll just make a pair of Jack 110s and use the Deltalites from the Omni 10.

[quote name='escholl' post='897534' date='Jul 17 2010, 07:50 PM']Yes, hopefully it will be obvious, as it sometimes is quite obvious, but other times it will be nearly invisible to the naked eye and you will just have to re-flow any solder connections that look questionable.

Attached image should show roughly what it looks like, although that is a particularly bad example and you issue may not be as obvious. There is also, of course, the chance that it is not a dry joint at all but something completely different. [/quote]


That sort of cracking around joints is very common - especially on large components or anything subject to any vibration and not firmly fixed. I had it on the joints to the pots of the tone and volume controls of one of my heads (so much for superior German engineering!) - the pots were mounted to the front panel but the board they were mounted on had a bit of flex in it. The result was cracklng and cutting out. Easily fixed with the soldering iron (and more fixings!).

I also had exactly the same problem wih a boiler control PCB. Useless for bass anyway.

As stated above, they are dificult to see. A bright light and magnifying glass help.

My first bass was a Kay. It may as well have come from Kays catalogue.

[quote name='Sonic_Groove' post='895487' date='Jul 15 2010, 11:59 AM']IMHO if you are doing cover versions you should do them in your own style.[/quote]

Agree - but sometimes the sound just goes with the part!

If I can convince the rest of the band I wouldn't mind having a go at Roxy Music's "Same Old Scene".

However, I think that bass sound is very striking.

I read that Alan Spenner played it on a Wal - is there any chance of getting near it with a P or Jazz?

It's also amazing the range of stuff that he played on - ubiquitous is the word!

PS When I Google'd Alan Spenner I came across a TalkBass thread where someone wanted to get hold of Alan because they thought they'd got hold of a bass that had been nicked from him. Poor fellow obviously had no idea that Alan had an untimely death in 1991.

The A string on my Jazz has always had a tendency to jump out of the nut (towards the E) when played hard with a pick. The string does angle towards the E at the nut.

I can sort of get round it by making sure there's a lot of string on the tuning machine to keep the string more straight but the standard nut is quite shallow and I wonder if a deeper replacement might help.

Any recommendations?

[quote name='lee4' post='888855' date='Jul 7 2010, 07:45 PM']I work for a timber merchant,and our cut size ply/MDF supplier is in Reading.They are Arnold Laver,and thier ply is great quality.
Great work BTW![/quote]

What's a reasonable price for an 8 x 4 sheet of 12mm birch ply these days? Everything at my local timber yard went up by 20% earlier this year.

I'll be very interested to hear what you think of these.

I've got a Deltalite-loaded wide-bodied Omni 10. I'm about to embark cutting it in half to make two 10.5s for easier transport although a few people on the BFM forum didn't recommend that I did! But then I'm a fool like that.

On the BFM site there were reports that the Omnis "chuff" on loud low signals but I've never noticed that with mine.

The plan is to then build a pair of Jack 110s for bas and convert the Omnis for PA use by fitting a crossfire piezo array. Much wood butchery to be done!

If the ABM is as per the MAG then the head from the 2 x 10" combo is wider than that from the 1 x15" as the on the 2 x 10" the rivers are side-by-side. I wonder if yours came from a combo and was put in a sleeve?

Just posting this out of interest to see if anyone else has had similar problems:

I bought a Yamaha MG166FX mixer off eBay about 3 years back and one of the master out channels was dead due to the master fader being knackered.

I then bought a new MG166C and having had that three years I've had to change the master fader on that too as it went intermittent. Servisol etc didn't do the trick. It surprised me as it's kept covered and hasn't had much wear and tear.

Internally the fader is the same component as most of the other channels but they've been fine.

I expect it only takes the smallest splash of beer to cause a problem. That's the trouble with slider-type pots - they're far mor open than rotary types.

The can't be a shortage of bassists - I'm 44 and have been looking for a band comprising four 18 year-old girls to join for ages with absolutely no luck.

[quote name='JackLondon' post='884292' date='Jul 2 2010, 08:09 PM']What would be the difference between open back and closed? Is it really just that simple?

Cheers
Jack[/quote]


What you should do might depend upon what amp/preamp/effects unit you intend to use.

A basic guitar combo with an open cabinet gets its tone from the driver and amp, i.e. has its own sound created by its design.

However, there are quite a few "modelling" amps plus preamps like the Line 6 pod thingy that model, i.e. mimic, classic designs etc. To get the best from that arrangement the guitar amp needs to be a bit more neutral - a few modelling combos that I've seen have sealed enclosures and have probably been tuned to have a flatter response.

Bought an EHX Bass Synth from Gareth.

Excellent to deal with in every respect.

In fact, I'm amazed he's got anything left to sell!

[quote name='Alien' post='879822' date='Jun 28 2010, 01:19 PM']Should be fine. If you want to keep the resistor in clear air just hang it between the woofer and the tweeter - I've done that in the past too.

A[/quote]


Hmm - I'd be a bit concerned about hanging a heavy-ish component on its wires. It wouldn't worry me with hi-fi speakers but a bass cab is subject to a lot more vibration and handling shock. It may well be OK but solder joints are quite prone to cracking under vibration and stress. Personally I'd fix them to something solid.

[quote name='Mottlefeeder' post='879230' date='Jun 27 2010, 09:15 PM']From what you said, it is the lower two cones in a four by ten that have gone.

My understanding [citation needed here] is that reflected waves from the floor put more stress in the lower cones, which if true, may explain your problem.

Many years ago I was using column four by twelves for the vocals (anyone else remember those), and the evening we put them on the floor, and not on chairs, we lost the bottom cones on both columns.

David[/quote]

Blimey - that's interesting. I wonder if anyone's got any more anecdotal evidence of that happening.

[quote name='squire5' post='879080' date='Jun 27 2010, 06:48 PM']I fired an E-mail to Adam Hall who seems to be the UK agent for Eminence,according to their website.I've also attached some pics.Watch this space........[/quote]
It might be worth posting something on Bill Fitzmaurice's site [url="http://www.billfitzmaurice.com"]billfitzmaurice.com[/url] as most of his designs use Eminence drivers. If anyone's had similar problems it will be someone there.

[quote name='KiOgon' post='878947' date='Jun 27 2010, 04:51 PM']It appears some people have not a clue on the precision required to get a speaker to do what a speaker does! The chances of success with glue or duck tape or anything else must be a million to one. [/quote]

True - speakers are precision pieces - but I think the OP may as well have a go if he's already bought replacements. Don't assume that because we make a suggestion that we're clueless.

Thin bead of superglue? Possibly Evostick contact adhesive.

That is a bit worrying.

I had a similar thing with some hi-fi speakers. I had a pair of Heybrook HB1s on which the outside part of the cones appeared to perish - both went at almost the same time. My mother-in-law had a pair of them too and they went teh same way at teh same time - it's as though some materials have a self-destruct date! Maybe the glue in yours is similar!