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BigBeatNut

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Everything posted by BigBeatNut

  1. [quote name='BigRedX' post='7173' date='May 26 2007, 04:01 PM']Is the Lakland HB a lined fretless or are thos just very skinny frets?[/quote] It's a lined fretless .... which was very disorientating after playing unlined for a couple of years (the dots are in the wrong place, too, compared to unlined).
  2. Can anyone recommend a teacher in London, preferably North London ? PM me or post messages here as you like. Thanks, Andy
  3. [quote name='EdwardHimself' post='6562' date='May 25 2007, 03:14 PM']i was looking at one of them lakland semis on 'tinternet b4 actually, they seem nice.[/quote] It's very nice to play. It's actually completely hollow, which makes it a bit different to most basses that are described as 'semi'.
  4. BigBeatNut

    My lot

    My lot ... in approximate order of how much they get played at this moment in time. Reghin d/b, 3/4 Lakland HB Status S1 Status Eclipse Status Electro Lakland 55-94D Hohner B2AV '79 Precision DeArmond Starfire
  5. BigBeatNut

    charvel

    [quote name='steve-norris' post='4518' date='May 22 2007, 04:35 PM']I like it![/quote] Is that yours ? Whoever it belongs to, I am soooo jealous ....
  6. [quote name='velvetkevorkian' post='3621' date='May 21 2007, 01:40 PM']Looking at it again, for me it all comes down to how bad the cracks are. As long as the top can be made structurally sound (and my untrained eye suggests you shouldn't have too much problem, although I have no idea of cost) then getting the soundpost and bridge in the right place is a moments work for a luthier.[/quote] My untrained eye is telling me the same thing. It's outside the line of the bassbar, which I assume is providing the structural strength, and near a free edge (the f-hole). I'm hoping the crack can simply be left alone, but I'd like a luthier to confirm it. [quote name='velvetkevorkian' post='3621' date='May 21 2007, 01:40 PM']That said, what's an extra inch and a half on top of 41"? [/quote] To someone like me who's used to 34/35 inch scale, it's exactly an inch and a half too much
  7. [quote name='daflewis' post='3469' date='May 21 2007, 10:52 AM']it looks like the top is solid wood, if that's true for the rest of the bass then it could be worth a bit more than you thought.[/quote] The top looks solid to me (you can see all the exposed grain where the edges have been scuffed). However it's a flatback, and the back appears to be several pieces of wood. The label in side says "Made in Roumania, Reghin" .... I've checked the current websites of romanian bass makers, and my bass (I think) appears to be the sort of thing that currently sells for 800 euros. Suspect with the luthier work coming up I might have been better off with a new Eastern European bass .... except mines got a lot of (cough) mojo of course Thanks for all the advice (everyone) and the luthier info in particular. Andy
  8. [quote name='velvetkevorkian' post='3505' date='May 21 2007, 11:34 AM']Nice! Regarding a tilted bridge, this is copied from Bob Gollihur's advice I got with my new bass... "As you bring it up to pitch, watch the bridge’s angle — it should be at ninety degrees, perpendicular to the top of the bass. If it’s a little off, give it a gentle “karate chop” at the top to move it to the proper position. Of course, the feet should be centered on the inside cut in the f-holes. You’ll see that the side of the bridge facing the tailpiece is vertically straight, and that’s the side that should be perpendicular to the top. Otherwise, string strain will start to warp the bridge on you." Hope it works well! edit- although looking at those cracks on TB, I'd probably get that seen to first.[/quote] Velvet: I'd be willing to try that, but for one thing, someone seems to have deliberately moved both soundpost and bridge towards the endpin by maybe an inch and a half. So I could do a couple of things 1) Follow your advice and finish up with a scale length that's an inch and a half too long 2) Figure out (with a luthier) why the bridge was moved (relieve pressure on the crack, maybe ?) and get the whole thing put right. Any way you look at it, I'm going to need a luthiers advice I think.
  9. [quote name='daflewis' post='3286' date='May 21 2007, 02:27 AM']i'm sure she's a beaut' ...welcome to the club! hard work but well worth it.[/quote] Thanks for the welcome, but I'm not sure 'beaut' is right ... looks like [url="http://www.talkbass.com/forum/showthread.php?t=334101"]it may need a luthiers attention[/url]. Can ayone recommend a London luthier ? Andy
  10. Okay ... I'm in the club ... here's my new toy Slighty iffy quality photo for a slightly iffy quality bass
  11. Does anyone know if the [url="http://www.bassbooks.com/shopping/shopexd.asp?id=432"]DVD 'Evolving Bassist' (Rufus Reid)[/url] is useful on it's own, or do you need to have the book too ? I'm really looking for something (Book or DVD for preference) to get me started on correct technique / posture etc, so if this isn't the right thing I'm open to suggestions. Cheers, Andy
  12. [quote name='owen' post='1444' date='May 18 2007, 02:45 PM']To the general public, anything to do with Double Bass is a 'cello of some kind![/quote] Surely not ... a real double bass is nowhere near in size to a cello ... appreciate some people might get confused over EUBs ... but double basses ?
  13. [quote name='subaudio' post='1203' date='May 18 2007, 09:31 AM']Cool, if you havent played DB before I would highly recomend getting a teacher, its a different animal to electric bass altogether, and it will save a lot of time too, enjoy your new bass [/quote] I plan on getting the ray brown book (looks like a bargain) and the "evolving bassist" one too, perhaps the DVD in that case. If I have problems figuring it out (a distinct possibilty) I'll find a teacher. I'm well aware you can do yourself damage with incorrect technique, so I'll be taking it easy ...
  14. [quote name='subaudio' post='1203' date='May 18 2007, 09:31 AM']My first DB had a fingerboard the same as yours, if you sand it down to key the surface (light grade paper) and use ebony wood stain it will come up really nicely, dont take the strings off though.[/quote] Why not take the strings off ? Because the soundpost might move ?
  15. Hah ... I just passed on a reasonably priced CR4M (didn't sound uprighty enough for me) and bought [url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=150119117990"]THIS[/url] instead as my way into the upright world. Looks like I might have done the wrong thing ... ... or not ... I guess I can always get my EUB later. Andy
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