Clunker

I had a similar problem playing an A on the G-string, only really a problem amplified (I don't bow) and despite having a fishman and experimenting with the phase button. I bought one of these wolf note eliminators, experimented by moving it to different positions between the tailpiece and bridge, and in no time at all, my wolf note was eliminated, exactly as is says on the tin. http://omegamusic.co.uk/buy/wolf-be-gone-wolf-note-eliminator-and-cello-for-double-bass?gclid=CLWeiofNkL0CFYWWtAodCmcAig (Other makes and vendors are available) Ewan

Another Hybrid Gedo user here. I use an Audio Technica Clip-on mic for the quieter jugband gigs (because it sounds so sweet acoustically) and an inexpensive "Hurley Virtuoso" pickup for loud rock 'n' roll, stood two feet infront of a 4x10 with no feedback issues whatsoever. The only anti-feedback device is a fishman pre-amp with a phase switch. I can't recommend Gedo enough.

I used to have this problem. I got one of the rubber mutes mentioned before, which helped a great deal. After advice from Paul King, I also stuffed the gaps in the "comb" with some pieces of soft sponge.This damps the vibration considerably more than the mute alone. You have to strap the mute to the bridge with a piece of velcro to stop the sponge from lifting the mute off. I've also made some plugs for my f-holes from more dense foam (the sort used in flight-cases). I made templates from paper, then cut the plugs out a few mm oversize so they fit fairly tight. The effect of both these methods is considerable. I would estimate it stops at least 70% of the acoustic energy and I can practice whenever I like really. I hope this helps, and will take some pics if anyone is interested. Ewan

You don't necessarily need a seperate clicky pickup either. I know a rockabilly bass player who's been playing for 20 years + without one. He uses a K&K bridge mounted pickup into a fishman platinum pre-amp and Ashdown stack. The click is accentuated a little with eq on the fishman and band's PA system. It's a slightly more subtle click than some rockabilly bands I've heard, but it's plenty IMO. This is the route I'm going to try if / when I'm good enough to join a band.

Thanks for the advice guys. The crack does move when I press it, so would require a repair. Good news is, the supplier have agreed to exchange the bass for an un-damaged one, so I'd prefer to go down that route. It's hard to understand how the instrument got through the staining process, laquering and presumably some king of QC checks, without someone noticing this very obvious crack, and flagging it up before it was packaged up and despached to me. Oh well, I would expect that two loads of carriage costs will make them a little more vigilant about it's replacement. In the meantime I'll have to go back to slapping the "ugly stick" as my wife would call it. (My Stagg EUB that is !) "Why do you need a Lutheran?" is another one of hers. I think she's been watching too much Tudors on TV

I got my first upright bass delivered this morning. It's a 3/4 size solid top job from a company selling on the internet (will remain nameless for now). There have been good reviews on here and elsewhere, so to be honest, I'm really disappointed that it's damaged. [url="http://img340.imageshack.us/i/basscrack.jpg/"][/url] The crack is about 2" long, and judging by the discolouration of the crack itself, must have been there before the instrument was stained. I know very little about acoustic upright basses, so have no real idea how serious a crack of this nature is, or the costs involved in repairing, or at least stabilising it. The company have offered me a £50 refund, which I have rejected. I'm awaiting a response from them, but in the meantime, I would value your opinions and comments as to my options. Ewan