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verb

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Posts posted by verb

  1. Thank you for your replies.

     

    I understand that Tuffcab is designed for a textured finish. I wasn't clear in my post with regard to the finish I had achieved on my test piece, the finish was textured but smooth, if that makes sense. 

     

    I don't mind a slightly rough surface, it's the white marks where the raised bits have been that I would like to avoid.

     

    I prepared the surface as you described and don't appear to have any adhesion issues. I only filled some screw holes using wood glue and sawdust.

     

    I will try altering my application and see if I get better results. 

     

    Thanks again

     

     

     

     

     

  2. Thanks for the baffle paint recommendations, I went with the Rustoleum in the end.

     

    Now I am looking for some advice applying Tuffcab. I want a smoothish finish so am using plain foam rollers. I did a test on an offcut of ply and achieved the finish I want. When I applied the Tuffcab to the cabinet I cannot get the same finish. The painted surface is rough and has little bits on it. The bits come off easily, with a wipe from a hand when the paint is dry, leaving a small white mark. Has anyone else experienced this problem, or have any recommendations to avoid this.

  3. I've purchased a couple of sets of EMG pickups from Dont Tell The Wife Guitars via ebay, the transactions went smoothly and the parcels cleared customs without charges. I also found if you watch an item you may get an offer of a small discount.

     

    Thomann have the 40TWX due in stock in a couple of weeks, but the MM5TW isn't due for several months.

  4. Rather than starting a new topic, I thought I'd ask in this one.

    I'm using tuff cab for the outside of my 1x12, but what paint should I use for the baffle and inside the ports? 

  5. 3 hours ago, Baloney Balderdash said:

     

    Regarding factory setup I never quite understood why some people include it in the reviews, this has nothing to do with the actually quality of the bass, it's made adjustable for a reason, and one should expect to have to do a proper setup on as good as any new bass or guitar, regardless of price tag, certainly for goes for all mass produced basses, but even then you should expect to have to do one to get it to your desired measurements.

     

    That a bass has a poor factory setup is a bit like complaining about the adjustable direction blades in the vents of the air condition in a car not haven been set up to fit your height and preferences when you got your new car, as said, it's a adjustable, it is literally made with the purpose of being fully adjustable, you having to adjust it to get it to fit your personal preferences is exactly what it is meant form, it's not a fault of the instrument.'

     

    Same thing with stock strings, though I guess one could argue for the actually being somewhat relevant.

     

    Personally I'd expect to change strings on every new instrument regardless of price class, along with a full proper setup, to make it fit my personal preferences, regardless of what the instrument might have costed, weather that is 100 or 2000, so what it might or might not be from factory doesn't interest me and is totally irrelevant as far as I am concerned, you might as well complain about the color of the cardboard box (if mail ordered) it comes in not being to your personal preferences, absolutely nothing to do with the actual quality of the actual instrument.

     

    Also that the pole pieces of the pickups doesn't always line perfectly up with the strings on a bass is perfectly normal, even for higher end basses.

     

    Sorry about the rant, I do appreciate you review otherwise and contribution to this thread, I just don't get the fixation on the setup in reviews, and it isn't just you, I see some people consequently including it every time they review a bass, and it just doesn't make any sense to me as it, as said, has absolute nothing whatsoever to with the quality of the actual bass, nor affect it in any possible way, and is in fact made with purpose of adjusting it in mind.

     

     

    I thought I'd mention the factory set up because people often state how their HB was good to go out of the box. I would think this bass is designed as a first bass, and having a bass that is easy and enjoyable to play would be important. As a beginner you may not know that a bass is adjustable, also, having to pay for a set up may be an unexpected expense.

     

    I stated that the bridge pickup wasn't  central, not that the pole pieces don't line up with the strings. The pickup cavity is actually 2-3mm out of alignment with the center line of the bass. 

     

    I thought I'd do an honest review of what a new HB could be like. 

     

     

  6. I have two Harley Bentons, a PB50 and a JB20. I bought the PB50 as I had never owned a P bass and thought it would be a cheap way of trying one. I have to say I was impressed by it, the neck is as chunky as most reviews say but not unplayable. The standard strings, D'Addario stainless rounds I think, gave it a nice growly tone. I fitted some cheap flats, another first for me, it has a good thud but I prefer the rounds. Fit and finish are all good, the set up wasn't bad but it did benefit from a few tweaks. 

    I bought the JB20 because I wanted the neck for a body making project I have planned. I had ordered an Allparts jazz neck, but returned it due to a few faults. When I received the JB20 I was surprised at how much I liked it, so I'm leaving it in one piece for the moment. The set up when I received the bass was poor, the action was very high and the intonation was out. The neck relief was fine, the nut was cut to the correct depth and there were no sharp fret ends. I found the standard strings were quite harsh, to the touch and to the ears. I replaced the strings with 45-105 D'Addario Pro Steels and gave it a set up. With only slight neck relief, I set the action at the 12th fret at just under 2mm on the G and 2.5mm on the E without fret buzz. Three of the tuners were very notchy, the other one was very smooth, I messaged Thomann and they sent me a replacement set. The replacements were slightly different but using the original mounting plates and all the other parts from the replacement tuners I now have functioning tuners. The pickups are a bit bland but functional. I have a set of EMG pickups that I decided to fit, but discovered the HB pickup mounting screw hole spacing is about 4mm narrower than standard J pickups. I may route the body and trim the scratchplate to fit the EMGs, if I don't like the gaps I can get a new scratchplate and make something to tidy up around the bridge pickup. I've also noticed that the bridge pickup is not central. The volume and tone pots seem to work mainly at each end of their travel.

    For all its faults I really like this JB20.

    • Like 1
  7. Do you need the circuit diagram for the preamp board or the bass? The bass schematic diagrams can be found in the support section on the Warwick website. By three knob version, I assume that is three band EQ. The Masterbuilt Streamer Stage 1 section shows various years of schematics.

  8. On 02/03/2022 at 14:06, Silky999 said:

     

    I’m then undecided whether to use a very sharp chisel or teardrop burr with a Dremel to extend the width by 5mm as I don’t have/feel confident to use a router. 

     

    I'd never used a router before I decided to install bigger pickups. I purchased a Vonhaus palm router, made the template, did a couple of practice routes in some 4x2 and then attacked my Warwick. Take it slow and respect that blade spinning at 20,000 rpm 

    • Like 1
  9. I made a template for some EMG TBCS pickups using 2 inch wide stripes of 19mm MDF. I used the correct size router bit to get the corner radius I needed. I got the MDF from eBay, it was a set of cut lengths from the craft section. I arranged the pieces around the pickup with a credit card along one long and one short side to give clearance in the routed cavity. I can't find any pics but this should explain how it is adjustable before glueing. Obviously the edges and corners need to be square.20220226_131351.thumb.jpg.b8a3ed53cff36aac613404927d4a86b9.jpg

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