Mr. Foxen

I generally have stuff picked up by my courier, I have a contract, and if they wreck it, I have the evidence to hand too. They risk their contract if they dick me about. "I will post at buyers risk" is meaningless on ebay, it's seller risk regardless. Just because you don't want to take responsibility doesn't mean you don't have to.

The better the quality of the pot, the more you can assume they are perfect electrical devices. "a pot is a pot" assumes the pot is a perfect electrical device.

You need to put this in the for sale section, with a price.

Spend it entirely in BCs for sale section, on stuff people are selling to buy other things in the for sale section, and get some movement on there.

Are chromes flat/ground wounds? The missing bit being what is ground off. I think flats are ground too so they are smooth.

Dying caps can go pop, you'd be looking for swollen ones as an indicator.

Sounds like bad caps, but without the excuse. Ding the valves with a chopstick and see if any are microphonic, they can be from new, and makes funny noises sometimes.

Frying eggs sort of sound? How old is the amp, more than about 15 years? Bad capacitors do that, they die over time, and Ampeg run then really close to tolerance so they die pretty easy.

I think its more that people assume daisy chaining means connecting in series, and it doesn't, because the connectors on most cabs allowing you to go from one to the other are in parallel.

Bolt on is better for consistently usable instruments. But CNC and kiln drying has made through necks more consistent through automation. As long as you don't cut a pickup route right through the neck where it meets the body so the body wings give no support, that would be ridiculous design.

A shaped metal plate on top of body would do.

Tiny holes in them. Probably best looking outside of instrument stuff.

On the P the bridge covers the job of ferrule, need something of the string will eat through the wood.

A drill press, start with a small hole and a sharp drill, then make them bigger from the back, that way you can line them up from the front so they are right, and have some wiggle room when you reo from the back, plus usually finish flaking from going through from the back if covered by the bridge, not so in this case, so just take care.

If it is emulsion, might be fine finish underneath. Fairy power spray and clingfilm with get it off (clingfilm stops it drying out while it works), without taking off the poly finish or being stinky.

[quote name='Lozz196' timestamp='1373325439' post='2136341']
The Likeness - a great tribute to The Darkness.
[/quote]

Saw them, got the impression they were an actual 80s hair band. Also 'We have an hour long set to fill and we are a tribute to a band with only one 35 minute album out, so here are some B-sides".

[quote name='iiipopes' timestamp='1373329928' post='2136384']
Marshalls - yes, old Marshalls can be used, because they have huge power and output transformers that can handle the amperage even when, or especially when, depending on your preference, they are over-driven.
[/quote]

Marshalls are all about the undersized transformers, that's why they overdrive so much. Some have big tranformers, but not the typical ones.

A valve pre and not clipping it is a bit of a waste. You should probably send it to me and get a mic pre.

I went to Aldi earlier, they are selling caster sets there.

Pics of casters would be good.

Yes.

You like the sound of the other cab? Same driver is best bet there. Once you are mixing up cabs, no way to predict how the combination will sound, so can't actually make recommendations that are useful.

Ported or sealed box? Port tuning if so?

SPL/power requirements?

Tone?

[quote name='Prime_BASS' timestamp='1373199632' post='2134565']
My maths maybe very out but does tat mean you paid £20 for a 200 watt head?
[/quote]

1000w amp.

10p/Matamp watt, get money's worth per lb too.