Mr. Foxen

Turns out got a gig on 21st, given choice between playing with everyone else's gear, and playing my own really stupid loud (like two Barefaced Super 15s and 200w valve heads), my stuff gettin an airing wins. If the wind is in the right direction, y'all should be able to hear it though.

I have a guitar rig along with the bass rig. Drive and definition from that, just the girth from the bass rig.

[quote name='rageingtelephone' timestamp='1378988561' post='2207379']
I reside in Bristol. So far I have had it serviced by an independant guy called Jesse James and later on by Justin @ [url="http://www.heronmusic.co.uk/"]Heron Music[/url].
[/quote]

Justin is Subthumper on here. I send ampeg stuff to him, because I don't like working on it, despite the rep, the stuff is plain badly made. Throwing valves at a problem amp is rarely the way, problem is elsewhere, if its more than about 15 years old, its probably capacitors, ampeg way underspecced them and they die pretty early. finding the problem is fun because of the way ampeg make the amps, can't run them open to figure whats going on without specialist looms, forcing you to go to Ampeg approved techs who just bulk replace entire PCBs and charge you accordingly.

Loud entirely depends on cab. Passive valve FMV eq is about as musical as you will get. If you get the eq wrong, something else is wrong. 500w is enough.

Heh, this next gig is gonna be ridiculous, street party.

Shim material is pretty unlikely to have made that dramatic a change. Lowering action can a bit, generally up to a point, high action sounds better. The high side of 'right' basically (where I keep my stuff), lots of people are into the clinky clunk thing though.

[quote name='JPJ' timestamp='1378843993' post='2205547']
Still for sale on Big Ginger Gits and on [url="https://www.facebook.com/groups/musiciansmartne/"]https://www.facebook...usiciansmartne/[/url]

I advised the seller of this place but so far he doesn't appear to have taken the bait. If any basschatters are interested, I'm only 3 miles from this if you need an intermediary for collection/courier pickup. In his post on facebook he claims to have the original packaging so courier should be no problem.
[/quote]

If you are cool to cash the guy if I paypal gift/bank transfer, and I can sort a courier, can work with that.

[quote name='stingrayPete1977' timestamp='1378839497' post='2205450']
By tilting from the neck pocket you are keeping the correct string to body angle at 90 degrees and passing over the pickups evenly too, lowering it your way on a Jazz would mean the bridge pickup would need screwing in further, on a Stingray the strings would pass over the poles at a funny angle.
[/quote]

Know why there is two screws on one side of a MM pickup? So you can change its angle. Fender would have used less screws if he could without losing function.

[quote name='Bassnut62' timestamp='1378840991' post='2205483']
Just scored an immaculate Burman 501 1x12 guitar combo that sounds better than anything I've ever heard and it's a heavy bugger.
I would love to hear a Burman 4000 bass head and cab. I bet you could knock the Sun off its perch with one of those.
[/quote]

Back of the room on a handheld recorder, but its a 4000 into a Barefaced S15, and a Pro502 into a Barefaced Vintage: [url="http://warriorpope.bandcamp.com/"]http://warriorpope.bandcamp.com/[/url]

Edit: And a Pro2000 combo for guitar.

"Hi, can I have this picked up by my courier?"

"No, its pick up only."

Guess its only for people with a a light motor vehicle with an open-top, rear cargo area then.

Without saying what speakers are in the cabs, doesn't really tell very much. Lots of the old boxes were the same thing in different colours, and came with different speakers in depending on what they could get their hands on at the time.

Through necks tend to need a thicker fingerboard, and the fingerboard tends to be expensive fancy wood, so bolt neck is cheaper in that respect, unless the bridge is routed into the body.

[quote name='MisterFingers' timestamp='1378836260' post='2205383']
I understand, but surely something like string tension affects that arc-and the consequence is a higher string action if (for example) you use a heavier gauge. So in that case you would adjust the truss rod [i]and[/i] lower the action at the bridge to compensate.
[/quote]

Truss rod needs to compensate for string tension change. Action needs to be adjusted as a separate thing because the lower string deflection means you can set it lower. Should not use the truss rod to compensate for the action being set wrong elsewhere, two independent factors in playability of an instrument.

[quote name='MisterFingers' timestamp='1378822556' post='2205113']
truss rod adjustment couldn't pull the neck back any more
[/quote]

Truss rod is unrelated to the shim/bridge thing. Truss is there to ensure the right amount of arc relief in the neck, overall action should be adjusted elsewhere, relief just determines how consistent that action is along the neck.

[quote name='stingrayPete1977' timestamp='1378820487' post='2205065']
I'm probably not explaining it very well, hopefully someone else can do a better job?
A big part of the set neck is to over come the problem, and it usually does.
[/quote]

Problem with set necks is you can't shim them when the action is wrong.

[quote name='Ghost_Bass' timestamp='1378819982' post='2205052']
Well... we all know that. It would be better to get a Sadowsky, Allevo, Sandberg, etc and not worry about build issues...
[/quote]

[quote]Both [i]Sandberg basses[/i] I've owned came with factory installed maple [i]shims[/i].[/quote]

http://www.talkbass.com/forum/f18/shimming-more-if-you-already-have-shim-factory-668740/

Shims are not signs of issues.

[quote name='BigRedX' timestamp='1378812041' post='2204852']
If you aren't giving your audience something worth watching then why are you even bothering being on stage?
[/quote]

I've not ever had a venue that would let me play from the bogs, even when I bring my really long lead (I get nervous before gigs).

[quote name='Ghost_Bass' timestamp='1378813226' post='2204867']
In my POV if a factory needs to shim its necks then they urgently need to rethink their design. A shim isn't part of a setup like a fret dress for example, a shim is a fix to a build flaw...
[/quote]

Fender basses: in need of a design rethink. Apparently.

[quote name='MisterFingers' timestamp='1378751594' post='2204257']
I'd be interested in finding out whether this is still common. I'm guessing that with computer controlled routing neck pockets are damn tight these days, but has anyone discovered that their new bass has had shims added? Do you think that this affects your opinion of the instrument, or of the makers? I'm genuinely curious folks.
[/quote]

Its about neck angle, rather than tightness, so its as necessary as ever. Can't rout an angled pocket very well, need a very fancy machine that can do tilting, no real point when a shim works.

He has literally jsut posted that amp on ebay. Linked him to thread now.

Think Umph might have one of those SVT power amps.

Rack mount cuts options right down. Peavey ones, and Mesa Strategy.

Got a lovely burman slave amp that would do otherwise.

Cab pair up ant brand with the bass terror. Barefaced Compact is a popular choice.

If I made this, could anyone give me a lift to Walthamstow after?

[quote name='timmo' timestamp='1378573217' post='2202013']
Apart from advancements in tuition etc, has there been an innovation to make learning and playing a bass easier from the first basses ?
[/quote]

OK basses being really cheap has helped. Compare to the nasty Woolworths jobs in the 60s, you can get very serviceable bottom end basses, like the £50 pink Westfield jobs and the Sue Ryders. Problem is proper setups are about as rare as ever, and more instruments about than ever before.