lozbass

Some great comments here - one of the most informative and informed threads I've read. 'Not sure I can maintain the standard but (and to reitarate comments above)...

Amp - I recently sold my Series 6 AH200 and regret it (massively) - nothing wrong with the amps I have now but they don't do the Trace sound. For what you'd get for the TE head, I'd say hang on to it and experiment - I'm sure it can do what you're looking for (but if you do sell, sell to me!)

Bass - I think that either of the Sei Jazzers on here would be an excellent choice...however, the Barts would need to come out. If you can stretch, an alternative would be a nice '70s Fender Jazz (probably expensive, but should hold its value).

Strings - before doing/selling anything, I'd try new strings. Personally, I hate Elixirs (and Rotosound Swing Bass, whilst very bright, hate my frets and fingers). I've been using D'Addario XL nickels and find them very piano-like and punchy on a Jazz. They seem to have decent life-span but for regular playing/gigging, I'd say change every two to three months (I'm always amazed at the difference after re-stringing). I know that guage is a very personal issue, but for the tone you're seeking, I wouldn't go under 40-100 (or 120).

Cabs - for me, this is the area in which we've seen the greatest progress in the past ten years. I've been very pleased with an Epi ul112, but any of the modern, small, lightweights should fit the bill (the only high-end cabs I really haven't been impressed by are Markbass - it's probably just a personal thing).

If you've made it this far...probably the biggest issue is strings - I really wouldn't do anything without a bit of experimentation - a good set-up with nice, shiny new strings can be as good to me as a complete change of rig!

Good luck with it all...oh and if the AH200 is going...

Hi, it is truly lovely! What's the scale length (32" or 34")?

Thanks BassBod and Musky - your responses are very helpful and accord with the bit of research I managed earlier (I didn't think of Talkbass before posting the question). It appears that nitro was used on the headstocks (to avoid transfer cracking) but poly elsewhere. As you suggest, what I'm probably seeing on the worn parts of the body is the sealer under the poly. According to views on the Talkbass site, the poly used in the 70s wasn't the same as that used today and can exhibit softness, significant yellowing and susceptibility to wear etc. I'm still not sure that my Jazz hasn't had an overspray, but it seems more likely in the light of what I know now that the yellowed clearcoat is the original poly. Thanks again - any further inputs very welcome!

I'd certainly go for the maple/ebony combination with rounds...it's what I have on my Jazz. When I had the bass set up by Martin at the Gallery, I was initially a bit concerned by his suggestion of roundwounds. They do mark the board, but Martin's advice was that the 'channel' simply adds to the characteristic mwahh - he also suggested that if I don't like the look I can just get a re-shoot.

Are the holes in the Mesa 1u apart? 'Seems like a strange place to put them unless Mesa expects you to rack with ventilation space. It looks like you're in for a bit of drilling and filing ('should pass an hour though it'd take me a day and I'd still cock it up). I have an SKB (4u) but can't get to it just now - I'll take a look later

Yes to the above, the Bass Gallery is a stockist - you'll find the range here:

[url="http://www.thebassgallery.com/bartolini.html"]http://www.thebassgallery.com/bartolini.html[/url]

Martin and Alex are incredibly knowledgeable and very good people to deal with

Hi all,

One for the many Fender experts on here. I bought an early '76 Jazz a few years ago. The finish is natural with a lot of playwear and a few bumps and grazes (the bass was imported from New York where it had clearly been played fairly intensively - no damage/major changes, just a well-cut and seated replacement nut: a fantastic player/sound after a fabulous set-up by Steve Robinson here in Manchester - much recommended!)

It's not a big deal to me (I'm not an avid Fender collector), but I'd like to know more about the finish if possible. The clearcoat on the body is very yellowed (a kind of deep honey colour - similar to the aged nitro finish on the headstock). It's also soft and quite worn in places - I think a previous player used a pick and wore some kind of bracelet. Where there's wear - very little of this goes down to the wood - there appears to be a harder (poly?) undercoat that is much lighter with a very slightly satinated feel/look.

So to the question, does anybody know what Fender was doing/using for its mid '70s finishes on natural basses? Was it a poly undercoat with a softer (maybe nitro or something similar) top coat? I've seen a few worn basses that look like mine but some that don't look as dark - if it's a newer, non-original overspray, no real problem, the bass is still a great player/looker but it would be nice to know.

Thanks in anticipation of your help.

Cheers, Loz

[quote name='Golchen' post='182921' date='Apr 22 2008, 04:18 PM']Wow - awesome looking bass. I'd love it but my skills are so unworthy!

What's the difference with the scale length then? (ignorant peasant)[/quote]
Hi, I'm sure others will offer more detailed/accurate responses, but 34" is usually thought of as standard 'long scale' (and 32" as 'medium' and 30.75" or 30" as 'short scale'). A 35" or 36" scale is not uncommon on higher-end or custom 5 & 6 string basses (the scale length is frequently specified by the indivudual purchaser/commissioning purchaser) - amongst other benefits, the extra scale length offers greater tension/tautness for the low B. Personally, I find 35" a bit too much of a stretch and tend to prefer lower string tension. I hope this helps (and I suspect others will chime in with alternative explanations).

[quote name='bobpalt' post='182687' date='Apr 22 2008, 12:03 PM']Hi.

It really is lovely!

Its a 35" scale.

Cheers,
Bob[/quote]
Thanks, thought so and thus too long for me. Nonetheless, good luck with the sale - the bass looks stunning!

'Looks lovely - what's the scale length on this?

[quote name='6stringbassist' post='180512' date='Apr 19 2008, 02:49 PM']I'd like to see yours, I bet the flamed ash looks nice, is there a photo of it on the Sei website ?.[/quote]
Hi Kevin,

I'm afraid there's no photo on the Sei site - I think mine is the first s/c that Martin built (I didn't commission it but it's every bit as lovely as you'd expect). The flamed ash is subtle but very nice - there's no exotic facing on the back so the ash is visible in all its full glory (the neck is a bit unusual too insofar as it's non-figured ash and maple laminates with a macassar ebony board). The bass desperately needs a set-up so I'll be down at the Gallery in the next week or two - I'll get some photo's when the set-ups been completed. Apologies for the earlier mail - I'd indicated erroneously that the facing on my bass was Burl when it's actually Thuya.

Cheers, Lawrence

[quote name='6stringbassist' post='180019' date='Apr 18 2008, 06:02 PM']Hi Lawrence

It's buckeye burl front and back over a walnut core, it's quite heavy but has an amazing acoustic sound, probably the loudest I've come across.

Bartolini P4 pickups and an East preamp, blue side LED's.[/quote]
Hi Kevin,

Buckeye burl is certainly one of my personal favourites and I've seen some of the gorgeous timber that Martin stocks - I'd love to see your acquisition up close! On the volume issue, I've had the same experience with my s/c 6 - it's unusually loud and resonant when unplugged (it's burl over flamed ash) - possibly something to do with the s/c design and neck width (there's a lot of timber in there!)

Cheers, Lawrence

"TBH I'd want one with the original case..."

As indicated above, I sold mine with the case but these aren't much to get excited about - just an early ABS style form-fit - a picture (the best I have ot the inside of the case) attached below:

Thanks Kevin - absolutely stunning! Knowing Martin's work, I'd imagine it plays and sounds as good as it looks. I didn't make it to the Gallery last week so missed out on an intimate introduction - I'm looking forward to more photographs when you get a chance. What's the facing timber on this (and is it the same facing on the reverse)? Cheers, Lawrence

[quote name='Marcus' post='179473' date='Apr 18 2008, 08:17 AM']Thanks Guys....... I've bought an Aguilar DB410 (4ohm)

Great Box !! Talk about Grunt and Heft, can't wait to use it live

Mark[/quote]

Excellent choice no doubt - I haven't played or heard a DB410 but I imagine it will sound amazing with the 750!

I sold one of these for £600 around 8 weeks ago - identical (LPB) but in much better cosmetic shape than that in the photos (and with the brass thumbrest and original case). The circuit had a little damage (easily repairable) and the original pick-up had been swapped for a DiMarzio. In sum, the bass was extremely heavy but played beautifully and sounded great (when the circuit was operational) - the neck was much more slender than a standard precision but not as slender as a Jazz. In my opinion, Specials look really cool and are a real cut above other late '70s and early '80s Precisions (see Hoosiers videos for current users of the CAR version). At £900, I'd say the bass you're considering is over-priced. However, I wouldn't be surprised to see early 80's Fenders (and Specials in particular) continuing to rise in price. I would wait and try to find a cheaper Special (they do become available in the US fairly frequently), however, I know what desire can do...

I've some experience with Epi and Aguilar - the former is easy - just a switch on the rear of the unit. The Agi (DB750) was imported from the US and needed an internal re-wire (basic - instructions available from Aguilar) and a new circuit breaker switch (again, available from Aguilar at about £30 including import carriage and duty). Given the potential savings available, I'd be tempted to buy in the US - just do a bit of research on the power issues before you go (I've found most US manufacturers to be very helpful) and beware of import duty on your return.

I play mainly 34" basses but have a 30" Danelectro Longhorn: it's really light, incredibly easy to play (with very low action and string tension) and fantastic fun. I think you can pick-up a re-issue at around £250 (and spend some more from your £500 on a decent pre - Fodera or Aguilar - to sort out the Danelectro's tone...far from brilliant out of the box in my opinion). Another useful trick with a Longhorn is to use the D'addario Jerry Jones barritone strings - these are very light, easy on the fingers, bend accurately and easily, and cheap.

Followng several weeks using a recently acquired ul502 (exclusively), I went back to the DB750 and spent all afternoon with it through an Epi ul112. What a pleasant experience! I love the 502 and hadn't thought I'd missed the heft and authority of the Aguilar but the difference was really surprising - two very different amps, each with its own strong character. The Epi is the only cab I have - I use if for on-stage monitoring (on the floor or at around waist height) and it works very neatly in most situations. It can be reasonably loud if it needs to be but remains tight, focused and articulate. To be honest, with PA support, I haven't found any situations in which its been unable to cope (though a loud rock gig might be beyond a single 12). I haven't had a chance to use two ul112s together (or a ul212) but I'd suspect the result would be pretty astonishing - the Epis have the attraction of being very light (about 30lbs) and might go some way towards compensating for the considerable weight of the DB750!

Hi Harry,

Given the gigs you indicate, I'd say Epi or TE (12 band eq) is the way to go. I've some experience of both - for me the Epi has greater warmth and hifi gloss and the TE a harder-edged (but rounded and full) punch. The problem with Epi gear is the price - it's certainly not cheap here in the UK (though there was a mint ul502 on BC for around £800 about six weeks ago). I've not used Markbass stuff personally (and in truth, was disappointed with what I heard at UK Bassday), however, MB is garnering plaudits pretty much everywhere. As you're a Sei player, I'd suggest a trip to the Gallery (with said bass) - try as many amps as you can! Also, have a think about importing from the US (due diligence required!). I've managed some good deals but be ready to add around 22-25% to the purchase price for import duty, VAT and handling charges.

Good look in your search - pre-purchase testing is half the fun!

Haha - thanks for the above - combination of this Quest with a light, clean pre would indeed be a bit lovely! You're right about Kev too (a man of impeccable taste and a gear list to make most of us green with envy!)

Thanks Guy for the very kind words (and thank you too for the very kind bottle on return of the amp - lovely!)

I'm sorry that the pre didn't work out for you and hope that you find a solution soon.

Good luck with the gigs and I hope we'll have another chance to meet soon.

I can reciprocate the recommendation here - Guy is a fantastic bloke to deal with - really friendly, accommodating and utterly trustworthy.

On the Epi Quest - it's still available to any interested Basschatters - the price is £310 including carriage (£300 if you want to collect). I don't expect to have it around much longer - I'm planning to take it down to London next time I'm there so it may be appearing in a bass shop in the captial soon. Let me know if you're interested or want to discuss.

Cheers!

Dave Lunt in Stockport 0161 432 9698 (I think - someone else posted in response to a similar enquiry) - Dave has an excellent reputation

[quote name='tayste_2000' post='142535' date='Feb 18 2008, 04:13 PM']Any one know a good one I might have some work that needs doing soon

Cheers[/quote]

Hi Daf, thanks and 'looks like Malta - another six months or so slaving in Manchester's half light first though!

Hi Daf,

It looks like you're enjoying reason 4! It's a beauty and you're photography is much better than mine.

Cheers, Lawrence