JJMotown

Yamaha's are Yamaha's no matter where they are made. It will be a well made bass regardless.

Darkglass is all you need.

19 hours ago, BassApprentice said:

Not sure what or why, but I just wouldn't buy a Retrovibe. I guess I think they are quite expensive for what they are. Bitsa basses with a nice setup.

Totally agree. I saw a 51 style which I'm convinced is a Harley Benton PB50 with some mods, and they added the Retrovibe decal. A bit naughty if they did.

16 minutes ago, cocco said:

1975 Peavey T-40.

Didn't the t40 start production in 1978?

On 24/09/2025 at 22:41, Dicey said:

Took this silver P bass out this evening, we had a thoroughly fun time! 

Nice

Two tone body and pale maple neck with jazz width nut. Decal and pickguard has been changed.

Looks like a squier sonic with fake decal.

You know dhl have a maximum size limit of 120cm. So unless your parcel was under this size, it may be being held as its incurred additional costs.

16 hours ago, danbanbass said:

Great to hear Andy, I’ve said to hell with it and thrown caution to the wind. I’ve got one being built as we speak 😊 

What have you ordered?

Are you sure these are CS 62s, and not Original 62s? The pole ends look bevelled which are on the Original 62s, but CS 62s are flat.

These are great basses, I had a 51 style p which fantastic, great feel and sound. Also owned Limelights before, and both on par in terms of relicing etc.

1 hour ago, ian61 said:

It was actually a shop damaged blue VM P/J which I got for cheap. Plugged the bridge cavity kept the P PU and repainted....Its now a standard VM P bass albeit with a minor alteration. Great neck, under 8IIbs and nicely resonant.

Nice, I had the same PJ bass a little while ago, albeit, I don't recall it having Duncan Designed pickups.

2 hours ago, ian61 said:

Yep, plenty of SQ love around here. My VM P bass with those 'Duncan Designed' PU's is probably best P bass Ive ever had, and  Ive had a few over the yrs.

Which, the white or amber?

I've a sunburst sonic P with laural or whatever the faux rosewood is, instead of standard maple, with gold anodised vintera pickguard. Looks great, sounds really good with flats. Really like the narrow neck, nice and fast.

2 hours ago, Minininjarob said:

I asked on my local bass group if anyone could photoshop black hardware onto it and some joker did this for me. 😂😂😂

That looks like the work of a certain fleabay seller!! 🤣

5 hours ago, Hellzero said:

For your personal record, it used to be my job and I'm glad I'm now retired when I read your poor attempts to pretend you're the most clever person on earth, when you are so stupid.

 

You're now on my ignore list @JJMotown as I can't stand plain idiots unable to recognise their mistakes, and yes it's a plural.

Shame, you're sadly deluded. I'm not pretending to be anything. Your puerile comment above tells me everything your comments (plural) says about you.

Your ignorance and stupidly not to recognise YOUR own mistakes and lack of understanding of context, clearly sums you up.

The fact you apparently have an ignore list perfectly informs me of the type of person you are. Deluded.

11 hours ago, Hellzero said:

You are proving with your diagram that has created even more confusion to the OP that you are the one having problems, just see above the mess you've created.

 

I'm really fed up by people like you, unable to explain anything with the correct vocabulary and then pretending others are the culprits.

 

Next time don't interfere with such non sense as the OP was clearly lost and made it to other way round.

 

It's not because I understood your very ambiguous diagram that I agree with all the non sense you wrote.

 

Left is left, right is right and has nothing to do here when the correct words were clockwise and counter (or anti) clockwise, what everyone has been told at school.

 

Period.

Your ignorance is outstanding. Its not MY diagram, its one which backs up my advice is correct.

It's not confusing to a beginner, it makes more sense then throwing around words like clockwise or anticlockwise. I've been setting up basses for almost 30 years, and I know using clockwise etc is the right terminology. However, we're not giving advice to someone with knowledge of what they're doing.

Your ignorance to not comprehend the context of the OP and being a beginner with no knowledge what clockwise etc actually means, and apply appropriate language is both sad and disappointing. People like you shouldn't confuse the matter and cause this thread to become a mess. 

As I say, your ignorance is sad, period. Best you don't convolute further threads like this as you clearly don't understand context.

1 hour ago, Hellzero said:

Your instructions are "correct" with a drawing, but I hope you're not into anything implying direction or mechanic @JJMotown as your instructions would be a total mess.

 

Use simple terms like clockwise or anticlockwise.

 

This is also the same problem with people talking about front and rear pickups instead of bridge and neck pickups, because I have never seen a pickup at the back of an instrument... 

A mess???

Simple directions. Left to right is as simple as it gets. Clockwise or anticlockwise is more confusing because looking at the bass or headstock face-on, as per the diagram has no meaning., especially to a beginner.

Essentially. You have convoluted this thread making it difficult to follow, as you're saying NO, to my directions, which you then agree are correct.

The mess is being caused by you, not understanding your left from right.

38 minutes ago, Hellzero said:

Urm, urm, if you turn from left to right wherever you are, you are turning clockwise, which means tightening the truss rod, so exactly the opposite, except if it's a left thread, which is quite rare these days.

OK, so I've added a diagram to spell it out as simple as possible...

1, facing the bass

2, turn left (E tuner side) to right (G tuner side on an ibanez) to loosen truss rod.

Same a diagram below...

1 hour ago, Hellzero said:

@JJMotown, your explanations about the adjustment of the trus rod are bit ambiguous, because if I follow your instructions, I'll tighten it even more, which is the opposite of what has to be done.

 

If the first frets are rattling, it very often means that the truss rod is too tightened, so release the tension by unscrewing it a tad bit is way more easy to understand, don't you think. 😉

 

So, to @lvrossem, first thing to do before going any further is to press the E string (as it's the easiest to see), with the bas on your thigh, at the first and last fret and check if there's any clearance (called relief) in the middle of these two points between the bottom of the strings and frets, and from there if there isn't, just slightly release the tension by unscrewing slightly the truss rod, retune and check again until there's a little clearance.

 

If it's still rattling, your nut is certainly cut too deep, so you can raise it by removing it (a small knock laterally will break the glue), gluing a bit of veneer wood under it, shaping it to fit the slot that you'll clean free of any glue residue and regluing it, then use @RonC method to check the depth of the nut grooves and adjust in consequence by filing them.

 

Otherwise, a fast, easy and reliable solution is to go to a luthier or a shop doing these adjustments and while you're at it change the poor quality strings and have a complete setup made.

 

Watch what they are doing, ask questions and learn how to do it yourself.

Nope, the truss rod is headstock end on the op ibanez, so my directions are correct to loosen the tension. If you were looking at the truss rod from the opposite direction, i.e. looking from headstock end down the neck to the body it'll be turning in opposite direction.

Buzz from top 4 frets is one of two things.

1, the nut is cut too low (nut needs replacing or there is a superglue and baking soda trick, do a Google search for this).

2, neck has too much back bow (turn truss rod 1/4 turn from left to right facing the bass in upright position to resolve).

The other option is to change the strings to some higher in tension then your current ones.

Any 32inch flats will have more tension than TIs. Generally, the higher the gauge, the higher the tension.

Screws come in different widths, you may have slimmer ones, check dimensions and get next size up or some slightly wider.

Japanese dimensions and fit are different to standard. The curve you're talking about you'll have to judge by eye, some are rounded, others more angular.

Should try a different set if strings to rule out its not a dodgy string. Most dimarzio pups have adjustable poles, and sound great.

@warwickhunt your parcel didn't go to Suffork did it?