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Flats warm up with a little playing time. People used to mention a bucket of fried chicken to hasten the process , I was never in that much of a rush.

Happy to hear you’ll be home. 
And maybe some playing in time …

I keep looking at 350 or 500 watt Aguilars with a single twelve. They’re a lovely combination , and I would certainly appreciate one. It would cover both gigs that were not overly loud , and playing at home. There’s a ton of used stuff around , sometimes for a good price. I’ve even watched some come and go on the local market.

I also already have a bunch of amps , and cabs. But I look at amps and cabs in a similar way some look at guitars. There’s room for both Teles and Les Pauls in my shed.

I can pick up a bass , play it for some seconds , and know it will be fine once it’s set up.
I’ve also been setting them up for close to fifty years. 

I had a Mono Block back in the later 70’s. 

Traynor is quite famous for making good sturdy robust gear at a decent price point.

It doesn’t carry any boutique cachet , but it will generally do the job it was designed to do , without fail , for damned near ever.

A bad setup can throw one off , but it’s funny how that can change in twenty minutes with a couple of screwdrivers and an Allen wrench. Whenever I look at any bass I check neck relief and look carefully at the nut. There are a lot of instruments with poorly cut nuts , both new and used. 
 

I always tweak things when I bring a bass home , and my preferences are not extreme. 

Slow and steady , do what they say to do.

I hope everything will be all right.

Always check the relief , it only takes a couple of seconds. 
I immediately do it after any string change. Or if I sense any change in how a bass plays.

The other thing to check is nut height. But once you’ve settled on that you leave it alone , unless you are making a major string change.

I have an old set on a Unicorn bass , they seem to have normal tension. Just check the neck relief and give the truss rod the appropriate turn. It’s not difficult to adjust , most basses will do seasonal shifts so it’s a very handy thing to set.

With Monique I totally bypass the front end and go in the effect return.

Some that have bought them have said the factory setup was not very good , and the factory strings were terrible. However , once the nut was filed ,  the bridge adjusted , and fresh strings on … they were very happily impressed with the bass. Especially at that price point.

Those little MB GKs have a unique baked in sound , some absolutely love them , some not so much. 
For their size they do sport a surprising slam. I loved a little MB200 at low volume as a practice head at home.

The tone stack in my amp is a four band , with near surgical control , and when I bypass that my preamp has a three band eq with a fairly broad sweep.
Now that is much faster to dial in… 

There’s a lot to be said for Class D heads , but the modern hifi clean is not the same as the old tube warmth. Two entirely different things , despite the creation of hybrids with tube preamps. 
 

I use the effect return to bypass the tone stack and front end of the amp , I run a multi tube pre so l get a warm tube sound with some serious slam behind it. 
Downtuning a Pbass that far might cancel that though.

The top ten mindset reminds me of the uneatable pursued by the unspeakable.

Wear a glove on your plucking hand.

That modded Mustang looks as funky as heck.

Recently imported a preamp from the US , and the exchange was brutal , and I was dinged for taxes by UPS. It arrived faster than some things that have come from Ontario.

Wound up being considerably more than the initial purchase price indicated. 
There’s a lot to be said for buying locally. 

Welcome Oliver. Lovely collection!

I have several guitarist friends that use the real tube driven Fender spring reverb. They have no interest in little pedals for that.

I picked up a Fender TreVerb pedal after buying a Squier VI. It’s perfectly fine for my limited needs. And there’s several reverbs in the Darkglass Suite for my Exponent if I want to go there.
 

The reissue spring reverbs often fetch around $1500 , vintage fetch double that. So $50 was a heck of a deal. It sold quickly , somebody got lucky.

I know what they generally go for. I tried to tip off a good friend , but he passed. It’s only an hour and a half away. I don’t buy stuff to flip and mostly just buy what I might have a need for. 
Heck of a deal though …

I always loved the classic Fender folded bridge. So simple , and easy to adjust. Leo had a knack for making things that were easy to adjust , unlike some other manufacturers. They were also simple and cheap to make.

Genius.

And yet recently took a metal adjustable bridge off a Danelectro and replaced it with a popsicle stick. The wooden Dano bridge sounds better , and there is a sweet spot for it!

Also went the other way and replaced several 3point style bridges with Hipshots.

I’ve been suffering some bridge madness.

A Fender Reverb tank appeared in kijiji here for $50 yesterday!