Paolo85

3 hours ago, Stub Mandrel said:

 

I would...

Ok, I take it back 😁

I do not understand the clickbait criticism. Lobster is clearly running a business. Seriously, what person owns a Rick and buys a £190 Harley Benton copy? How many people spend their evenings making 20 minute videos (writing down, presenting, recording, editing, all to a good enough standard)? Ask anyone who makes videos for a living: it's actual work. Fun, but work.

He's running a respectful business that helps people like me with limited experience getting an idea of what their perfect bass may be.. within the budget.

As a person running a business he hopes to get viewings and he presents his stuff in certain ways, the same way a small local newspaper bumping into a story that is of impact for the local community would run it in the front page with big headlines. Even if the story would not in itself be remotely worth the attention of a national.

For a channel entirely dedicated to cheap basses, the fact that the Gretsch is cheap does not mean anything. In fact, it makes it even more topical. For some, few hundred pounds is a lot.

I do however understand the "so what, it sounds great" criticism.

That's a very interesting question. I have a 34" fretless that I love playing. I am also craving a Squier CV Jaguar 32". My intonation is already not very good as things are, so I am holding back with the Squier..

2 hours ago, Cliff Edge said:

I’ve had TI Jazz Flats on my SR900. They played really nice, and I got the neck pretty much flat. But they didn’t sound as good as LaBella DTB flats which I’ve been using forever on other basses. YMMV of course. 

Many thanks! I think I'll try that next time. I have TI flats on my other two basses and I love them (at the same time, I agree that LaBella flats sound better especially for the purpose of sounding like flats proper.. if only they were low tension!)

By the way on that I have to report that I have put some TI Jazz on, but rounds. Playability is incredible. I had to add a bit of relief, but this is more than offset by the low tension of the strings (maybe they are the lowest thension strings on the market?).

At the same time, there is some buzz if I dig in hard (I rarely do). Also G is .043 and E is .089. For as good as the strings can be, this is noticeable. They sound surprisingly aggressive and maybe not "full" enough. I would not buy them again. But given the cost, I'll let them age a bit and see if they get better.

Overall I would say the work well for an Ibanez (G)SR, however, as long as that's the sort of strings one is looking for. Maybe if I was playing metal, as I was many many years ago, and I was chiefly concerned with speed and coming out in the mix given that the guitar covers it all, they would be perfect.

39 minutes ago, shoulderpet said:

Yes no problem,

 

The first one was aesthetic, the neck was a lovely amber tone until you went further up the neck where it was pillar box red were someone had gone mad applying the finish. Even my wife thought it looked dreadful.

 

The second one the frets were completely knackered, no amount of adjustment would get rid of the buzz and I think they realised this in the factory as the action was jacked up sky high

 

It was a shame the first one was so aesthetically jarring with its dayglo neck as it played well

 

Very helpful thanks! Yes it looks it's not minor issues that can be overlooked

On 21/02/2021 at 21:10, shoulderpet said:

I have a Mezzo that I brought because I wanted a medium scale bass, I initially wanted a medium scale Squier CV jaguar bass but after returning 2 of them due to QC issues I didn't feel like playing a lottery on whether or not I would get a dodgy one. I have to say though the Mezzo body shape despite being a bit more pointy than the typical Fender body shape is surprisingly ergonomic.

Apologies for quoting a 2021 post, but may I ask you what sort of problem did rhe Jaguar CVs have? I'd really like one but I find this discouraging

Unfortunately it's not the right time.. I'd love it!

I have just now received a refund from Bax for a Stagg EDB I had decided to return after a few days. They would always reply to my emails within a day or so. I must say the logistics of the return it has not been a simple matter. At some point I suspected they were planning not to give me the full refund because the box was broken - it was already when it arrived and I explained to them I had a video of the unboxing. But to be honest I think there might have been a misunderstanding. Their policy is that you have to put the product box into a Bax box before returning it and stick the address on the latter. You cannot stick anything on the product box. But I received my Stagg without Bax box (I imagine because of the size), and as the product box was I figured I would need to put a lot of tape to ensure the Stagg would survive the shipping.

So I told them that and their answer was that they would then make a decision on the full refund upon reception.

Someone smarter than me would have immediately figured out that I could just wrap the product box into something and then put tons of tape outside.  I eventually did that and now I have a full refund with no discussion.

The experience overall was unpleasant but I think I could order from them again if needed - either "low risk" items or things that it seems I cannot get anywhere else.

9 hours ago, Obrienp said:

All the Ibanez basses I have bought new came with a D’Addario tag hanging off them, so I assumed they were OEM on all 

Edit: I have always found D’Addario work well on Ibanez basses, although I tend to go for a full medium, or light set, rather than the light top/medium bottom sets they tend to put on OEM. I find the hybrid sets a little too bright on the top end but they are probably ideal for slapping (which I don’t do).

Interesting note on the string, which I will have to change one day I guess! Does anyone know how reportedly low-tension roundwounds such as DR sunbeams or TI Jazz would fit on a SR-serie bass?

[Edit] I have just learnt that Ibanez actually makes strings:

https://www.thomann.de/gb/ibanez_iebs5c_e_bass_string_set_045.htm that might be what they put on the cheapest basses!

Just bought an affordable ticked to this club with an Ibanez GSR205b. I wanted a bass to see if I can get into five strings, but at a price I would not really regret. I couldn't be happier with the choice, great value for money.

I am particularly impressed with the neck, not only because it is slim - this is just a know fact - but because it came (I understand straight out of factory, although I bought it in a shop) with a very low action with minimal buzzing. Height for E at 12th fret 2.5mm, and relief... little more than 0.05mm. Basically flat! So I guess very good fretwork.

Strings feel low tension, which I like, although this may be an impression I get because of the low action. Does anyone know what these strings might be?

Done it with a D from another set of fairly new strings I had recently removed from another bass. It still buzzes. Definitely less I must say, but I believe this is because that D is higher tension than my TI's A (in fact, relief went from around 0.3mm to around 0.33-34mm with the new string on).

On one hand, it seems if I was playing with higher tension strings maybe the problem would be negligible, on the other hand it seems there's something clearly happening at the 7th fret. And I want to play with TI's anyway! It's time to bring it to a professional!

many thanks for your help!

18 hours ago, Dad3353 said:

Could it be the frequency of the note itself causing this, with a 'resonance' provoking excess string excursion..? Easily tested, perhaps, by tuning down the whole bass a tone, and seeing if the 'buzz' occurs at the same spot..? Just a thought. 

Interesting! I have tried that, as well as tuning up, it seems the buzz remains on the 7th fret in this case!

16 hours ago, Andyjr1515 said:

 That is possible.  The ideal relief is actually almost none!  When you hold down at the 1st and the 16th, the mid point should have 'just perceptible movement' when you tap it.  If it is hard against the fretboard on either the top string or bottom string, then the trussrod needs slackening off, but as long as there is air underneath both strings, that is enough relief.  And yes - if you are trying to spot a high point, the fretboard should be ideally flat to start with. 

I see, maybe I'll bring it in before I flatten the neck, just to avoid playing wit the truss rod too many times possibly without getting anything out of it

16 hours ago, Andyjr1515 said:

  It might also be a duff string with more 'slop' than the others.

That could be the case - I am using TI flats so they are already sloppy to start with. Interesting it happens at as specific point in the fretboard though

Many thanks! I have tried a credit card as well as a rectangular metal ruler (5cm and 9cm/3.5" sides). No bump that I am able to detect. I'll try to find a straight 6" object

Would it be possible that the relief hides a bump? So maybe in that position more than a bump there is lack of curvature?

I have pushed relief up to 0.3mm and string height at 2.5mm. The buzz, while still there, becomes acceptable once amplified. Still I'd love a very low action and I am interested, even just for personal knowledge/future purchases, in understanding how low action can go on a very good neck.

I understand this depend on personal taste on buzz, but the situation I am/was in is that one single note on the fretboard sounds extremely different from all others nearby so I imagine one could "objectively" say that's not great

Hi all, I have a question:

I have Cort B4 fretless, around 10-year-old, with 0.24mm relief, 0.35mm height at the nut and 2mm height at the 12th "fret" (without fretting in first position).
I get a big buzz at the 7th "fret", especially on the A string. This buzz diminishes if I increase relief so it is probably not buzzing at the bottom of the neck. Pushing string height to 2.5mm would not solve the problem for the A. And truth is I'd like a low action and the rest of the fretboard sounds just fine to me.
Do you think the problem is that the action is very low, and I am bound to have some issues especially at the 7th fret unless I get a bass with a perfect ebony fingerboard or something? Or does it look like there is an obvious lump and a luthier can sort it out?

Purchased a Sire V5 last week. Very nice guy, very nice bass. I would definitely buy again from him

Turns out it's all well! Thanks all

17 minutes ago, Paulhauser said:

If I were you I'd first put on a new set of strings to see (hear) if there is anything to fix. 

 

Good point

4 minutes ago, Paul S said:

 

Wouldn't that glue the strings to the nut?

 

Also works with superglue/graphite powder, albeit slightly more slowly, if you need a dark grey finish.  I've repaired a few non-bass things with that including the snapped-off arm on a favourite pair of sun glasses.

I was assuming I could reap them off easily, but that was based on not very much so I guess that may not be a good idea!

...sounds like gauged files would cost more than having the nut replaced. Question: I have an old set of .045-.105 strings.

What if I put them on, and try to put baking soda and superglue at both sides of each string to fill the gaps?

Would that make sense?

1 hour ago, kodiakblair said:

Not ironic, it's a tried and tested method for filling nut slots.

 

 

Looks like something I want to try!

Thanks. Unfortunately it is U shaped, I assume V would have been better. The bass is a Cort B4fl. As for the budget, I try to spend as little as possible as long as I am not at risk of making any damage.

At some point I will bring it in, there are a few things I need to do and I may as well have the nut replaced if needed. But happy to play around for a period. Is the superglue and baking soda suggestion a thing, or was it ironic?

Hi all. I have recently filed thr nut slots of my bass to fit some Rotosound 88 but I kind of regret it. They sound great but I have intonation problems and tension is higher than I had expected (btw, I strongly reccommend against if you don't have a string-thru)
Is it ok to just move back to normal gauge strings, or do I need to have the nut fixed? What sort of problems may come out that I have to watch out for?
Thanks

Just over a week ago I bought a Stagg EUB online. The neck was terrible, there was an obvious bump on the E string so when I would play a G it would be almost muted no matter what I did.

On top of that, it was very hard to play. The neck is very big. I had set string height at 6-7mm which I understand is sensible for an upright. My left arm was hurting after minutes. Granted, this is certainly mostly down to the fact thay I do not know the right technique.

The seller seemed accomodating: they said they could either fix the neck or replace the instrument. I could have gone all in (have it replaced, spend 150-200 for soft strings, try to learn proper technique) bit I gave up. I am returning it for good. I am a bit paranoid about pain because od a very bad tendonitis years ago. In the future I will try other, more pricey options if I have the opportunity and see wether the problem is the Stagg or wether EUBs/DBs are just not for me.

So I guess what I want to say is: careful with the Stagg. Should you want to get one, try it first