ikay

I used to have a two pickup version of the EQ01 which had an LPF for each pickup. The signals were then blended after the filters (ie. you could have different filter settings for each pickup). This one appears to have inputs for two pickups which are then blended before going through a single LPF. This is a simpler configuration and arguably more practical in terms of usability. There were so many sound combinations with two filters it frankly blew my mind!

1 hour ago, tom1946 said:

So it's just a matter of fiddling about with pickup heights until you arrive at the optimal 'spot'?

Pretty much! With the P pickup you can drop the 'A' pole which should help. Playing around with string gauges can also help to even things out a bit (eg. a lighter gauge for the A string)

I'm having a clearout and found several old ICs from the 1980s in my parts box. 

24-pin controller chip from a Roland Jupiter-6 synth
14-pin CD4006CN
14-pin CD4016CN
14-pin CD4030CN
14-pin CD4016AE
14-pin CA3280E

May possibly be of use to someone who does DIY electronic projects. Free to anyone who wants them, just drop me a message.

I also have a bass which weights 10lbs. I like a bit of variety 😄

17 hours ago, neepheid said:

What's the matter with the stock tuners?  Just curious, not being argumentative.

Nothing wrong with the tuners. The bass is a very comfortable 8lbs 3oz and ever so slightly neck heavy. Nothing a grippier strap won't sort to be honest but I quite like the idea of a sub 8lb bass!

14 hours ago, LeftyJ said:

https://g-gotoh.com/product/gb10/?lang=en

Thanks! The bushing hole is 15mm for anyone else who would like to know.

I'm thinking of putting some lightweight tuners on my Silver Series P (pic below). Before I start dismantling things, does anyone happen to know the diameter of the hole in the headstock and whether the bushing is rebated or just sits in the top of a 'straight through' hole? The bushings are quite compact with in inside diameter of 12.2mm and outside diameter of 18mm. I'm guessing the hole is somewhere between 14mm and 16mm, which narrows down the replacement options somewhat (I don't think there's an exact drop-in replacement), but it would be good to know for sure before I start messing around. I know that changing tuners isn't always as easy as it might seem! Thanks for any input.

If you haven't seen these TB posts already there may be some clues here (no wiring diagram though):
https://www.talkbass.com/threads/help-with-the-controls-on-a-mij-pb-555.1585452/

https://www.talkbass.com/threads/fender-boxer-pj-80-wiring-diagram.1642052/

Can you add a photo of your bass? The TRB 6P preamp circuit seems to have varied a bit over the years. This pic for a '92 model on Reverb is different from the one in the TB thread.

https://reverb.com/item/38797509-yamaha-trb-6p-six-string-bass-second-edition-1992-amber-ebony-fretless-neck-through-japan-hardshell

This cross section of a Fender bullet trussrod might help with understanding what's going on here.

When it's properly seated and functioning correctly, the amount of 'bullet' nut protruding from the hole should always remain the same. Tightening the nut should apply tension to the rod and straighten the neck, but the nut itself shouldn't sink further into the hole when you tighten it (it just remains seated on the washer at the base). Typically about half of the nut should be visible. A bullet nut is 1" long, so about 1/2" should be showing, give or take a bit.

However, the area at the base of the nut, where the washer sits on a thin shoulder of wood, can be a weak point with tension trussrods of this type. Sometimes (particularly when being overtightened) the nut/washer can chew its way into the wood and sink further into the hole.

That's the main area of concern here. The nut in the 'after' pic in the first post does seem to be quite deep in the hole, which could indicate that it's started to chew its way into the neck. Most necks can tolerate a little bit of movement, but if it sinks too far into the neck, then the fretboard near the nut can buckle or crack. The block inlays on 70s basses, being cut into the fretboard, further weaken the wood in this area and exacerbate the problem.

It may or may not be what's happening with this particular bass, but a deep set bullet is a common symptom of the problem (or an impending problem down the line).

Looks a bit odd to me. When a trussrod is maxed out the nut sinks deeper into the hole so the original pic does't really look maxed out. When you add washers it shouldn't sink even further in.

Sold my travel bass to Andy.  A quick and seamless transaction, prompt payment, good comms, all round a pleasure to deal with.  Thanks Andy and enjoy the bass!

I'm the lucky new owner of Ead's Silver Series Precision, and what a very lovely bass it is too! A complete gent to deal with, kept me up to date with posting arrangements etc and it arrived supremely well packed. A pleasure to do business with. Many thanks Alain!

Thanks for all the interest, now sold!

My funky little travel bass is getting less use these days and looking for a new home. I commissioned this from Paul Rose (ProseBass) in 2011 to have something to noodle with on holidays and trips. It's been a loyal little companion over the years! Easy to throw in the overhead luggage on flights. I mostly used to wrap it in a towel and pack it into my suitcase. Here are the main details:

Scale - 30"
Overall length tip to toe - 89cm
Weight - 2,596gm (5.7lbs)
Body - Spanish cedar (natural oil finish0
Neck - maple/rosewood
Pickup - BelCat humbucker
Controls - Vol/tone
Bridge - licensed Steinberger type

It's not the finest luthiery when it comes to finesse (it's a little rough round the edges in some places) but it was never intended to be. It was built to be solid and practical, to withstand the rigours of travel and possibly being thrown about a bit.

It's a really handy bass to have around even when not travelling. I always had it somewhere easily to hand for working out songs or for incidental practicing and twiddling at home. A cool little bass.

Comes with a RockBag which is a tight but snug fit. Price includes shipping in the UK.
 

PM'd

PMd

Thanks. From the shape of the pickguard it looks very like a 70s Telecaster with the pickup moved to the P position. Agree the headstock shape is a little pointier so maybe a custom build rather than a modded 70s Tele.

@sblueplanet can you post a link to the trailer? Had a look on youtube but couldn't find anything.

Thanks and good to hear that there's been some progress 👍

I'd be interested in a progress update on the Stoneham if anyone knows?

Re nitro or poly finish, if you want a definitive answer it might be worth dropping an email to Hofner HQ at [email protected]. I've done this before on a different matter and had a helpful reply.

Thanks Richard, I love these old BBs but unfortunately it's a little heavy for me. Although considerably less than my old BB2000 which weighed in at a little over 11lbs! 

What does it weigh please?

Thanks for all the suggestions! Will check them out and see where that takes me.

Can anyone point me in the direction of a drive pedal with an adjustable frequency X-over which allows the lower freqs through unmolested and only applies drive to freqs above the X-over? I'm after a vintage/valve break-up type of sound (not heavy drive or fuzz) to add character and thicken up higher notes while keeping the punch and attack of 'dry' low notes intact. Thanks for any suggestions.