roycruse

excellent that sounds amazing what kit do i need to do the loops I thought the fretted / frettless idea was kind of cool - the higher octave of the guitar being fretless. Ive even seen a few basses that had a lever that retracted the frets down the entire neck.

Not sure if you all may have allready seen this as its not a new video - but i just love this clip... I would love to be able to play like this one day. [url="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W-9wY57AZIs"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W-9wY57AZIs[/url]

Thanks for the tips - I will spend some time trying to improve my hand/arm position in the morning.

Hi... Not sure this is the right place for a question like this as the forum description mentions "pushing the boundaries" Maybe a beginer forum would be a good idea as I feel like im a bit out of place. Ive been teaching myself to play bass for the past couple of months using a book "Crash Course Bass" which basically gets you practicing for a least an hour a day every day for 8 weeks. The first 2 weeks are the very basics then it sets out to touch on a different musical style every week after that. week 3 is blues, week 4 pop and week 5 disco and so on. Anyway Ive got to week 5 and the disco style of pumping 8th note octave bassed lines are really causing me alot of pain. After sailing through the book to this point im suddenly hit with finding the lines physically tough to play. Im finding that after only 1 minute of playing one of these lines my little finger is on fire and completely fried and cant do it any more. Im not struggling to learn the actual exercises (not any more than the rest of the book anyway) but just finding it physically tough on my little finger, so on to my question... Is this normal - is swapping from your index finger to your pinky back and forth rapidly just tough and ill get used to it or is my technique or hand position bad ([url="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jTZ7p0zgTNc"]please see video clip for a poor quality recording of my left hand[/url]) at the end of that clip my hand was burning with lactic acid I can paractice literally for hours on the pop and blues style lines with no fatigue but the disco lines are killing me. Any help, comments, criticism gratefully recieved.

bassed on alex's advice im going to scrap the isobaric chamber and put all these bits in a new cab configured the more traditional way nwith both 8 inch drivers visible and facing forward. With some playing around in bass box pro software i have finalised on a 600mm x 400mm x 300mm box with a 68 x 220 tuning port which gives the attached yellow plot line (orange plot is the cab as it is now in isobaric config). Ive also decided to adda tweeter to the box - dont really think it needs it for the bass guitar but when im practising and I am using the drum loops in the Zoom b2.1u they sound very dull. so on to my next question. Ive decided to add a very cheap piezo tweeter and have ordered one of these [url="http://www.skytronic.co.uk/product/index.php?s=902.475"]http://www.skytronic.co.uk/product/index.php?s=902.475[/url] I liked the idea of it being high impedance and not needing a crossover. but it does say it needs to be connected with a "small series resistance" but I cant find any information about how small that needs to be. Ideally I would like to add a variable resistance and give my self a seperate control on the back of the unit to adjust the level of the tweeter but havent got a clue where to start... ohms, kohms Mohms ??? and also dont know if I need a linear or log type pot. Any ideas appreciated.

[quote name='alexclaber' post='415837' date='Feb 20 2009, 10:27 PM']About 60-70Hz. Good isn't so much managing to lower the F3 alone as also managing to increase power handling and thus maximum SPL as you drop further below 100Hz.[/quote] Im aware that i am one of those dangerous people where a little knowledge is worse than knowing nothing at all So please bear with me if my logic is floored. If avarage bass guitar cabs have an F3 of 60-70Hz then this means that any signal fed to them below this will be a minimum of half as loud as notes higher up where the SPL is nominal - (is my logic ok so far) This means most bass cabs have a much lower SPL on any notes from about C2 downwards. This to me raises the following questions 1) is this actually the desired sound for the bass guitar where the lowest notes are less loud. or 2) bass guitarists buy rigs far bigger and more powerfull than they need and use EQ to make up for the quieter low end or 3) i dont know what the hell im talking about (in which case please help )

[quote name='alexclaber' post='415163' date='Feb 20 2009, 11:59 AM']Ah, as I suspected it's high Qts. It I were you I'd take the back woofer out, plug the port and then stuff the whole box with polyfill. That should get rid of the hump yet still get you a lower F3 than most bass cabs. Alex[/quote]Alex - Whats the average F3 for a low-medium cost bass cabinet and what would be considered good...

So in other words the reason you dont see alot of speakers set up like this as it doesnt really give you alot of benefits Can you suggest a configuration that might work better - with the hardware I got (using both speakers) - i dont mind spending another £20 on wood and starting again with the box. I just want it to stay as small as possible. What I did wrong here is pile into this knowing a little bit about speaker cab design - but nothing about what parameters make a good bass guitar speaker. But that is kind of the way i do things - i like to find out how everything works myself the hard way Details on the drivers are :- Re 7.1 Fs 53 Qms 2.4 Qes 1.13 Qts 0.75 Sd(CM2) 216 Vas(L) 20 Cms(uM/N) 300 Mms(g) 30 B x L 7.9 SPL 1W/1m2 86 Prms 100 Pmax 200 Xmax 5

[quote name='alexclaber' post='415037' date='Feb 20 2009, 09:48 AM']One thing I will add is that the rise in response you have around the tuning frequency combined with the low F3 you may find the combo sounds extremely bassy once room gain in a house is added. If you lower the tuning frequency by extending the port you should be able to solve this. Alex[/quote]You are right - the first couple of fretts on the E string do boom out noticably louder than the rest of the fretboard. I was going to just E.Q this out but ill have a play with making the port longer - Thanks for the tip.

Im afraid I will not be able to comment on how it sounds in comparison to anything else for a while. My Zoom B2.1u arrives today so will be able to plug it in with the correct line level its expecting later on. - I built this thing to keep me going while whilst I put some cash away for something decent. Ive really fell in love with the TC Electronics RH450. Im a complete gadget freak (i love the digital knobs on the front of that amp and the car stereo style memory buttons) but the price tag on that head and a couple of their cabs is way out of my price range for quite some time to come. (comments on whether this is a good thing to be saving towards also gratefully recieved) I used to play bass when I was in my teens (well kind of played - was never very good back then) but my bass got stolen from my flat and my life went in a different direction. I picked up another bass only a few weeks ago so am really enjoying picking up where I left off - So Im a fair way off of needing anything other than a practice amp anyway. One thing I would like to know from the boffins - will I have reduced the high frequency response of the drivers putting them in isobaric config. they were supposed to be good up to 8kHz - which I figured should be enough - but this is where my little bit of knowledge comes to an end. I was wondering if it would be worth putting in a small mid range or tweeter. I left it all out so far as simple and cheap was the main motto for this.

Its the result of several evenings of playing around with the softwatre "Bass Box Pro" I wanted to build something really cheap - that i could just use at home that wasnt huge but could still hold its own down in the 40Hz regions The Skytronic 8" Woofers were only £10 each - the velleman amp kit was £15 The problem I had was to suck the full 100W RMS out of the amp I needed 4ohms - which meant either a more expensive speaker or 2 cheap 8 ohm ones. Thowing the parameters of these cheap speakers into the software and asking for good performance down to 40Hz I was getting suggestions of huge 180 litre enclosures and after 2 days of varying port lengths and widths etc - i gave up and started looking at other options. I noticed the Isobaric Compound method of mounting the speakers in one of the pages of the software and Eureka I suddenly had a box that was only 400mm X 400mm X 400mm and held its own right down to below 40Hz. (see the attached plot from Bass Box Pro) The only control on the amp is a simple gain on the back - the amp has simple line level input - and my zoom B2.1u has line out so i figured why complicate things (and ramp the price up). I will use the amp modeling, eq and effects of the Zoom unit to give me control over the overall sound. Its the first time Ive ever done anything like this - so please pile in with the critisism as I like to learn from my own and other peoples mistakes. Only reason I posted it here was because its an unusual configuration and wondered if anyone else had seen anything like it.

100W RMS Velleman Amp 2 X 100W 8" Skytronic Drivers 100mm diameter X 195mm Reflex Tube Hoping to run it off of the Line output from my zoom effects unit (when it arrives tomorrow)

Thanks for you input - ive swapped the pots around... I swapped the top for the bottom and the left for the right - which now gives me front pair for front pickup and back pair for back pickup. the ones closest to the pickups are tone and nearest the ground is volume. This feels much more natural and logical now.

Hi - its my first post !!! I have just aquired a new Peavey Dyna-Bass which im really pleased with. One thing I find odd though is the volume and tone pair of control knobs seem to be the wrong way round. (see the attached pic) The front pair of knobs control the back pickups and vice versa Can anyone tell me if thats normal on this or any other bass and if so whats the reason for it. Im perfectly capable of re-wiring it but I thought id check here before I opened it up.