Ajoten

Sold. 

16 hours ago, TheGreek said:

Did nobody recommend a semi acoustic? There are lots available including Chownys and Jack Cassidys and they do have a certain style about them...IMO a better option than some of those mentioned earlier.

I reckon your Nanyo 5er is a lot lighter than you estimate. Still for sale? 

Dare I risk fretless being my only bass never having played one ever? Aargh! 

What's the weight? 

Physio ongoing and awaiting MRI scan. Irrespective of whether bass is the cause or not, it's not helping and I've started to dread just carting the thing about. And who knows exactly how body parts interact with each other and how one part adjusts given strain in another, with neck turned to look at fretting hand at same time etc. 2-shoulder strap is a good thought in that respect. 

Thanks everyone for the excellent suggestions. The non-light bass now for sale, replacement choice depends on proceeds of course... 

Can't keep an eye out for anything till this has gone. But yes, P-Lyte be ideal

Want something meaty and classy?

Shoulder injury means I have to sell this, probably the best bass I've ever played tbh. It has an awesome sound and awesome chunkyish neck, with a nut width midway twixt regular P and J.

51 style body but with arm contour, Custom Shop '59 pickup, Badass bridge, and I upgraded the scratchplate from the one ply to pearlescent.

£420 or trade for something sub 8lbs... thinking 5 strings Ibz SR505, Yam RBXA2, Steinberger etc, or incredibly light Fender I guess, if such a thing exists. 

Pick up only from the from the Chilterns/western Metropolitan Line/a southern M40 services.

(note: will upload more pics when have better Web connection!) 

Thanks for looking! 

Further investigation suggests Traben can be light (if paulownia wood). Any experience of those?

Flimsy, that's how it will feel

Well given my budget is whatever I can sell my P for, sadly I don't think I can act on that recommendation!

I get VERY confused with these SR things as there seem to be millions of different models. How does it work, higher the number the higher the spec? And/or any giveaways in the model code as to the lighter versions?

Out of interest, what is the official lightness of this bass?

My mate John, as it happens. But I too struggle with the Mick McCarthy thing (that his name?). It's the robustness that bothers me most however.

I know what you mean re strap and neck dive, I was just wondering if a lighter body makes it a tad harder to control.

The other one on the radar is the Yamaha RBX A2 btw.

Spose I need to buckle down and sell the thing. This thread isn't helping with that!

Can't really grumble about its balance. FYI Mike Dirnt MIM Precision. Probably the nicest bass I've ever played tbh.

Will have to play it sat down for a few weeks and see if things improve. Not very rock n roll.

Recently I have been suffering from painful tendons in right shoulder and elbow - Dr reckons rotator cuff thing.

My bass weighs 13lbs. Is that particularly heavy? And even then, given the weight is supported by wide strap on the painless shoulder, it might have nowt to do with it. 

Any road up, I am musing on getting something nice and light - that won't neck dive. I'd expect Steinbergery things to fit the bill, but what else should be on the shortlist? Apparently Danelectros are light, but it might be that the lighter the body the divier the neck. 

Andrew

I have Silver Slaps on.

The thing only cost me £350, I bet proper luthier work be a healthy %age of that. I was wondering if cutting/filing down the notches c. 1cm be worth a pop (and more commensurate with its value).

(I understand how personal, and instrument-specific, setups can be, but I'm still surprised there appears to be NO used bridge market. Or market for different height new bridges.)

Definitive or not, it sounds like mine is horribly wrong. Which is good in a way, I thought it was just me being rubbish.

Never having played a DB until I got one a few months ago, I have no concept of what range is considered "normal" action (do we say "action" in bass viol world?). I was reading elsewhere someone set theirs up so at "12th fret" spot it 5mm. Mine is 15mm... 21mm at the end of fingerboard. Do I just have to man up, or do I take a hacksaw to the bridge?

(Any DB forummers in the Chilterns btw?)

I'd be foolish not to give that a go really.

Rather than start new thread I'm going to chip in here.

I currently have no need to amp my bass but would like to experiment anyway. In a very very cheap way.

Has anyone had any success with a £10 transducer or tie clip mic thing?

I have only ever played with one bow (and don't know what I'm doing with that) so have nothing to compare with. Now, I don't deny different bows make a different sound, but I don't understand the physics of why that should be.

(I am considering getting a new one ONLY because mine looks a bit battered and is a decades old ex-school freebie item. Which makes me fear it's rubbish, but I have no evidence why that should be.)

What's going on though? Do they just "go" for no reason sometimes?

So there I was, putting some strings on for the first time ever. G D A all on relatively smoothly, started winding up the E... a few clicks and creaks... then TWANG everything fell apart. Luckily I see it's not too catastrophic a failure as it seems you can buy them quite cheaply and easily, but for a mo I thought I'd completely trashed it.

But was I doing something wrong? All the higher 3 strings were on and vaguely in tune, but the E wasn't anywhere near concert pitch so I don't see how it could have been putting so much strain on the cable.

Bugger