NewUser

Desired tuning, starting with the lowest, E A D G B E 

I have a six string electric guitar, (not a bass) B.C. Rich S.O.B. and came across these strings and wondered if I put them on my guitar, if I would be able to tune the whole guitar down an octave? Don't know if it matters but guitar has an emg 81

Thanks in advance!

I've been thinking about getting one of these.

https://reverb.com/item/4875605-chicago-stompworks-octave-up-green-ringer-boutique-clone-pedal

Fast forward to 2:10 there you can hear it pretty good, like an orchestra, it's scattered throughout the song but there it's pretty rich. 

Hoping one of these will get me there, but which one?

I think I've narrowed it down to either a 

STRING9

STRING ENSEMBLE

https://www.ehx.com/products/string9/

Or a 

MEL9

TAPE REPLAY MACHINE

https://www.ehx.com/products/mel9/

These things are kind of expensive so I only afford one, please help me decide.

Yesterday I tuned the C string to a B and played for a few hours and liked the results.

I'm just playing E minor backwards.

Here in a few days I'll get the courage to flip the strings and bridge around backwards and try that out.

13 hours ago, zbd1960 said:

For clarity for me - are you talking a standard (apart from the five strings) sized viola that you play with a bow? I'm assuming 'yes'. I'm a cellist and obviously the viola is similar in that it's tuned an octave higher. The two obvious issues are they are tuned in fifths not fourths and they're usually fretless... so 'fretted' is new to me. Five string cellos (and presumably violas) were a thing in the cross-over period from the demise of the viola da gamba and the rise of the violin family around the mid to late baroque period.  

 

What is not obvious is that instruments like violas are not symmetrical. You cannot just 'flip' the strings around. It has a bass side and a treble side. There is a bass bar on the inside of the top (on conventional acoustic instruments anyway). The finger board and the bridge are not symmetrical. The reasons for that are mostly to do with bowing.

 

There are fingering patterns for cello but unlike the bass they are not quite as 'fixed' (because of the tuning in fifths). Viola fingering is not the same as cello fingering. On a cello for scales, apart from some open string ones, the 'standard' pattern is to use 1, extended 2, and 4. If I were to play E major two octaves starting on the C string it would be:

 

C string: 1E 2F# 4G#, shift back whole tone

G string: 1A 2B 4C#, shift back a semi-tone

D string: 1D# 2E 4F#, shift forwards and stay on D string 1G# 2A 4B, shift back

A string: 1C# 3D# 4E

 

Above that E you're in 'upper positions' and fingering pattern for an octave changes to 12 shift 12 shift 123 because fingering is now nearer to violin fingering as the spacing has narrowed a lot.

 

The awkward thing there is the 2 shifts needed on the D string.You could avoid that by opting for the open A string and putting 1 on the B, 3 on C# then small shift to 1D# 2E.

 

Viola is not as large as a cello so you might use 'violin' fingering which is different - because they're smaller, you can have semi-tone or tone between all fingers, which you cannot do on a cello.

 

The elephant in the room: viola uses a C clef - C3 aka alto clef. For entertainment, cellos use bass (F4), tenor (C4) and treble (G2)... 

 

Hopefully someone more familiar with the 5 string viola will be along to provide better info. 

The instrument is a 16 inch electric Viola meant to be bowed, I have a bow but am more interested in playing it pizzicato.

I've read your message several times, thank you for writing all that out!

I just got this and have no training so forgive the sloppiness.

Plucking each string then bowing each string.

Clean

 Big Muff

Tel Ray in cocked position combined with Big Muff

Ratt wide open combined with Tel Ray in cocked position and Big Muff

The Ratt is connected to a Morley FX treadle so in this clip, no bowing or plucking, just jiggling the strings with fingertips, I'm pumping both the FX Ratt and the Tel Ray

So I've been playing bass for about, I don't know maybe around two years seriously when suddenly a 5 string viola got my attention. I just got it. What a challenge this is. I'm stubborn and must figure this thing out. I have the will power, I hope, to master both instruments. I only know one scale on bass, E Minor. My bass is a 4 string tuned standard E A D G the 5 string Viola is tuned C G D A E and the viola has 12 frets.

So far I only know E minor on bass and I'm ready to move on to something else; but wish to learn this scale also on Viola. I'm really hoping for advice on where to go from here, finish mastering E minor - learn a scale that goes with E minor that has a old world ancient allure, Egyptian Latin Persian - Conan the Witcher - Romantic and Gothic - Seductive and Suspense - and fun with a blast of distortion and speed. I want to master E minor on both bass and viola but can't find a tab for 5 string viola, only 4. Please (someone) fill in the e string.

I do not have all the letters memorized on the fingerboards yet, I'm determined and working on it.

Searches have turned up these scales, that could be what I'm aiming for? I've not tried them yet.

(1) E Double Harmonic Major

(2) E Suspended Pentatonic

It would be nice if there were a way to mash it all together and have a super scale. Or maybe there is a different scale to be recommended. 

I really need tabs for 5 string viola.

Rather curious idea, might flip the strings on the viola around backwards and have the low C tuned to low B so it would become High to low E A D G B on viola and save me a headache and might create some interesting sounds. 

Thanks in advance and please go easy on the novice here.

It's here!

I love it and will never part with it.

Now I need to learn how to use it.

No promise but will do my best to get sound clips tomorrow.

Would someone please give me e minor viola 5 string tab?

Some type of Persian Egyptian scale that goes well with e minor would be well appreciated too. 

E minor is so far the only scale I know how to play on bass.

Thank you in advance!

2 hours ago, BigRedX said:

 

My experience of various exotic stringed instruments is that the moment you stick them through any kind of distortion/overdrive deice they sound just like guitars. The only advantages you get is that if it's something with very different tuning intervals to a standard guitar, it then opens up possibilities for playing/writing parts that would normally be difficult to play.

 

I built myself a solid electric balalaika in the late 70s (it was a practice run for making my own electric guitar the following year). Musically there was very little I could do with it that wasn't sonically close enough to playing the same thing on my guitar.

Thank you, this is good news then because this was pretty much what I was hoping to get out of it.

On 09/10/2022 at 11:05, pete.young said:

Pickup looks like this to me: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003196228239.html?_randl_currency=GBP&_randl_shipto=GB&src=google&src=google&albch=shopping&acnt=494-037-6276&slnk=&plac=&mtctp=&albbt=Google_7_shopping&albagn=888888&isSmbAutoCall=false&needSmbHouyi=false&albcp=17859472720&albag=&trgt=&crea=en1005003196228239&netw=x&device=c&albpg=&albpd=en1005003196228239&gclid=Cj0KCQjw4omaBhDqARIsADXULuUp1hGsKf2poaPNpt1tHPvTDmxQ3vEeJd_syUgm3DXUWBpmDk4afkQaAmtxEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds&aff_fcid=343f2b700285474da6227621918b0597-1665327653019-01938-UneMJZVf&aff_fsk=UneMJZVf&aff_platform=aaf&sk=UneMJZVf&aff_trace_key=343f2b700285474da6227621918b0597-1665327653019-01938-UneMJZVf&terminal_id=15a6422552a94fc88720a94ab69051a2&afSmartRedirect=y

 

It'll be a piezo transducer under the bridge feet, and the box probably includes a high-impedance (> 1MOhm) preamp. The cable on the Mark Wood violin looks like a right-angled  mini jack on one end and a 6mm socket on the other. You can probably get Studiospares to make one, or buy the bits if you can solder.

 

There's probably no point in replacing the friction pegs - you get all the fine adjustment you need on the tailpiece adjusters. Ebony bridge probably won't improve the sound, but with this it probably doesn't matter.

I've been searching for a cable and found.

Hosa MHE-100.5 1/4" TRS to Right Angle 3.5 mm TRS Headphone Adaptor Cable, 6 Inch

Is that going to work for me?

Thanks in advance!

2 hours ago, Rich said:

It has shipped, going to be a long wait. Cargo boat from China to U.S.A. estimate delivery day is November 28th 

I would be interested in sharing the sounds I get from the instrument. 

I thought frets would help me transition from bass guitar over to viola. I have no interest in using a bow anyway and intend to play pizzicato. Frets just make sense to me, finger taps, hammer ons - pull offs.

I'm plugging it in my bass amp, can't wait to hear it with ratt distortion and a tel ray wah.  Really hope this all works out.

They have several headstock/scroll options. Personally I like and choose traditional scroll. Also had frets added, and also got the ebony bridge I wanted. They sent me these photos after completing the build. Now comes the wait, shipping by cargo ship from China to the U.S.A. Probably be a month to get here, hope there's no problem with customs, tariffs, hidden taxes, etc.

Can someone help me find one of those cable things that's on that woods violin?

Thanks in advance!

Seems to be the same pickup system used by Mark Woods.

I just ordered one. 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/264353568384

I want one, about to buy one, there are all over eBay. I like the Viola Crazy 1

They're cheap, I'm hoping someone here can advise me on upgrades for it.

Better preamp, I'm wondering if the JOYO JE-307 5-Band EQ (guitar) system would work? -or- Something similar if anyone could suggest it would be welcomed. It's hard to find stuff geared specifically for electric silent viola's.

Also wondering if I can ditch the wood pegs and replace them with some Graph Tech Ratio Tune-a-lele Ukulele Tuners?

I'm not really understanding the pickup on this thing, how it works or what to upgrade it with. I did find an Ebony bridge I thought would look better but want to keep the pickup hidden.

Also think I'm getting a harp style ebony bridge.

(( I don't know anything about these electric bowed silent instruments, any upgrade advice will be greatly appreciated, thanks in advance. ))

P.S. Talking to some people around me, they want to know,

Question. Why do you want this?

Answer. I don't know.

Question. What are you going to do with it?

Answer. Play with it.

Question. Why not a Violin, nobody plays Viola?

 Answer. I don't care. 

Question. Why that one?

Answer. It looks cool.

Question. Why not a different brand, a better one?

Answer. I only like that one.

Question. Do you even know how to play a bowed instrument?

Answer. No. and so what.

Looks like a fire hazard, but makes me sound better than I am.

1 hour ago, SumOne said:

I'm trying to get a Diamond Bass Compressor Jr but it seerms almost impossible. Internet searches point me to one sold on Basschat over a year ago, no UK shops stock them, there's nothing on Reverb or eBay - even globally.

 

From what I gather, the Mooer Yellow Compressor (£40) and the Caline Pressure Tank (£30)  are 'inspired' by the Diamond.  But does anyone here know how 'inspired' they are? i.e. are they Diamond clones or just using the same principle of a compressor with a tilt EQ? Neither of them have the 250/900Hz tilt center switch so I guess they aren't exact clones and are just using the same principle.

 

Edit: I've just found via onvilab that the Mooer Yellow does not replicate the sound of the Diamond 

 

I will open it this weekend and show what's inside the case, if that helps?

I got one today, a stellar eq compressor. I like it so far, I'm keeping it. Simple, works, no noisy hiss. 

Only thing bothering me, I can't figure out what the knob labeled EQ is doing. All the way counter clockwise seems dull, all the way clockwise gets sharp tone. Least that's what it sounds like. I'm keeping it at 12 O'clock for now. I'm wondering if it's boosting and cutting mids.

I searched and seen no topics on this pedal yet so here we go.

I'll disassemble it if you all want to see what's in the case.

On 02/12/2021 at 09:29, Baloney Balderdash said:

Currently own, use and love following dirt cheap pedals :

 

- Joyo Orange Juice (own 2 of these amazing tiny pedals, used as sort of dirty preamps towards the start of my signal chain, miniature clone of the Tech 21 Oxford, analog Orange amp style preamp/drive emulation, but without the cab sim of the original pedal and with simplified EQ controls as well, to accommodate it's miniature size, can get really grindy (next pedal that I will buy will be the new full featured Tech 21 Oxford clone, the Joyo Oxford Sound pedal, though I do still appreciate the smaller size of the Orange Juice, and the other options it not featuring a build in cab sim and a simplified, but somewhat different EQ section, gives it compared to the new full sized and full featured version))

 

- Joyo American Sound (clone of the Tech 21 Blonde, analog Fender amp style preamp/dirt emulation, used as clean preamp towards the end of my signal chain)

 

- Mosky Black Rat (RAT clone, with both a Vintage, classic silicon diode clipping, mode and a Turbo, LED diode clipping, mode, used in Turbo mode, as part of my high gain super massive and monstrous heavy and ballsy, really raunchy and almost fuzz-esque, distortion setup, mixed in parallel, via one of my Boss LS-2 pedals, with one of the before mentioned Orange Juice pedals stacked into a Boss MT-2 Metal Zone, the Mosky Black Rat retains low end a bit better than both the original RAT pedals and most other clones on the market)

 

- Behringer VP1 Vintage Phaser (Pretty accurate clone of the original big box EHX Small Stone, and does a better job at that than EHX's own Nano reissues, used with the Color switch engaged (deep sweep/high feedback setting), and mixed in parallel, via one of my Boss LS-2 pedals, with my Monarch MFL-22 Stereo Flanger, for a super lush, swirly, somewhat quacky, psychedelic effect with a somewhat mystical oriental quality)

 

- Behringer SF300 Super Fuzz (Pretty accurate clone of the discontinued Boss FZ-2, which again was a take on the legendary Univox SuperFuzz circuit, but with an added active Bass and Treble EQ control, pretty gnarly and thick sounding high gain octave fuzz with a raspy and somewhat sputtery quality) 

 

- Behringer UT100 Ultra Tremolo (identical to the UT300 which is a later rebrand, and which while supposedly being a Boss TR-2 clone doesn't sound very much like the original, I prefer the sound of the Behringer to the original Boss version though, which I by the way own as well. The Behringer, beside having a more throby character, just having something about it that makes it sound a bit more vibrant and alive to my ears)

 

- Zoom G1Xon and MS-70CDR (cheap budget, previous generation Zoom, multi effects, personally prefer the effect models featured in these pedals to those in the newer generation Zoom B1n/G3(X)n/B1(X) Four/G1(X) Four multi effects (I own both the G1 Four and B1 Four myself), both the G1Xon and MS-70CDR loaded with more or less the same effect models, using a hack that allows you to install any effect from any of the same generation Zoom multi effects to any one unit, but the G1Xon I use for various reverb patches, among that one where I utilize this pedals build in expression pedal for volume swells with a thick lush reverb pad effect, and beside that a trippy reverse delay patch as well as a lush aggressive really quacky sort of "wOÚh" effect, using an effect modeling the Moog MF-101 LPF pedal, and also for this utilizing the build in expression pedal, assigned to control the Frequency parameter of the envelope filter, while the Sense of the filter is set to 0, whereas the MS-70CDR is used for an always on patch consisting of a model of the legendary dbx163a compressor going into some fairly mild EQ'ing, handled by 2 x 2 band fully parametric equalizer models, then going into yet another 2 band fully parametric equalizer, this used for a faux, EQ based, cab sim, approximately mimicking a LPF set at about 3.5kHz (-3dB) with a -12dB/Oct downward slope, finally going into a lush but very wide, roomy and big sounding (basically meaning a relatively high pre delay setting) church reverb model which can be switched on/off as one sees fit, this reverb often being used in combination with various other reverb patches from the G1Xon to enhance them further)  

 

 

I just got a mosky black rat today. 

What's the filter knob doing?

I think I'm hearing more bass counter clockwise and more treble clockwise. If this is right, would that make 12 O'clock mid boost?

Almost finished. I have a custom plate ordered that will cover the ferrule holes at the back of the guitar.

Having a slight possible problem with pickup height. I think my pickups need raising but if so I'll have to get some taller springs and thicker foam, I've got them both raised as far as they will go and think they should come up higher. I reused the springs and foam off of my Traben pickups.

Lastly, I put some way lighter strings on it, now the neck has no relief, it's perfectly straight and the notes on the first frets fart out. E string not so bad, A string can kind of hear it, D string yeah, G string >_< farts bad. Second frets E, A, D, G fart slightly but can hardly notice. I don't ever play around there so don't really care. I'm going to let everything settle for about a month then loosen the truss rod a quarter turn and see what happens; might hopefully fix it. String action is lower than any bass I've ever played too, but I really like it this way; don't want to raise them.

Still have a few kinks to work out.

Would some of you Traben owners please be so kind to measure the string distance between the strings and pickups?

I think my pickups need raising but if so I'll have to get some taller springs and thicker foam, I've got them both raised as far as they will go and think they should come up higher. I reused the springs and foam off of my Traben pickups.