Jump to content
Why become a member? ×

Jateca

Member
  • Posts

    23
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Jateca

  1. Only used for light gigging and in a rehearsal room. Selling due to smaller size requirements. No significant abrasions, marks, dents etc. Wheels is great condition, smooth rolling 4x12 neo speakers so very light for a cab this size. Easy to get about thanks to build in wheels, tilt bar and wooden runners on the back for lying flat in transit. Can lift its weight comfortably by myself, 2 people make it super easy. Works with GK's Biamp system or just a regular full range amp (switch on back panel) with Speakon or jack connections 4 Ohms, 1200 watt, huge sound for a single cab, 12-inch speakers give a nice balance between 10" punch and 15" boom Pick-up from Liverpool city centre only since the thing is realistically too big to ship!
  2. Hi all, Just a quick question for you all, are there any musical instrument shops in the Northwest of England (or even the Western Midlands) that stock double basses? I ask because I am finally looking to upgrade on my entry level Thomann instrument, but I have not had much chance to place on other instruments besides my own, so I really have no idea what to be looking for in an upgrade outside of my own experience. I'd really like to find somewhere that has multiple instruments that I'd be able to try out to see how they sound and feel compared to mine. Any recommendations would be much appreciated! Thank you
  3. [quote name='stingrayPete1977' timestamp='1484687686' post='3217589'] I think you'll get a better carbon fibre bow in that price range, does it have to be wood? [/quote] I suppose not, I was just going on what was suggested from some of the reading I've done... do you have any suggestions? And thanks for the tip tinyd, I'll have a little look at that cheers!
  4. Hello! I couldn't find a topic with information on this when I did a search, so posting a new one I've recently been playing upright bass and am looking to add arco techniques to my arsenal. Basically I'm looking to find the best value bow on a budget. I'm looking to spend somewhere in the region of £100-£120 and am looking for a french styled bow, ideally made from wood and with real horse hair. Does anyone have any suggestions for brands or where I could get one? I hesitate to pull the trigger on an online sale without reviews to back it up, and the only ones available locally are wayyy out of my price range Also, since I'm asking, would I be right in thinking that a 3/4 size bow would be the standard (as 3/4 is the standard size for instruments) Thanks a lot!
  5. Apolgies to anyone interested, I'm withdrawing this from sale. A project has come up that I may be able to use it for! If not then I will be relisting it at a later date!
  6. ********************** *Edit* - I may be starting a project that could make use of this instrument so I am withdrawing it from sale for now. Apologies to anyone interested! ********************** Price or Trade Value: £450 (not including shipping) About 2 years old, from new. Never gigged and rarely used. 42" scale length made from a single piece of Mahogany (Honduran I think). All Ergo instruments are hand-made by Jesse Blu (the owner of Ergo) and comes fitted with a piezo pickup under the bridge. I think he now uses Cherry or Walnut for his basses [url="http://ergoinstruments.com/5-string-eub/"]http://ergoinstrumen...m/5-string-eub/[/url] Unusually this is a 5-string with a high C and low E, so it is typically tuned EADGC . Finish is a beautiful deep-red burst, like very dark mahogany faded into black I bought this for a folk project a while back which unfortunately split up shortly afterwards! Sadly I've mainly been playing in electric bands since with little call for an upright sound. Shame to sell such a beautiful instrument but I've got to be ruthless if I want a new amp! This plays beautifully and sounds great with a bow (during a brief experiment when I initially got it) as well as played with a pizzicato technique. In excellent condition... the only non-original part of the bass is the bridge. The stock bridge was a piece of lightweight pine, or something (which is included!) but when experimenting with different sounds I had a new bridge made from solid maple by Chester based luthier Matthew Bascetta ( [color=#006621][font=arial, sans-serif]www.mjbluthier.co.uk/ )[/font][/color] who did a great job. You can see the new bridge in the photographs, it's a lot denser wood than the original which seems to give a slightly bassier sound than the stock bridge. The original is included though so you can swap them very easily! The stand included is the original that came with the instrument. Also included is a home-made gig-bag with a pocket to wedge the stand into. It's perhaps not ideal but I'm not charging any extra for it! Am based in Liverpool and would be able to travel to anywhere in the Liverpool or Wirral area, or Chester City Centre for collection. Unfortunately I don't drive so transport elsewhere is difficult! I will look at estimates for shipping if necessary. Any questions or additional pictures required let me know!
  7. [quote name='gelfin' post='806655' date='Apr 14 2010, 10:45 PM']Hi I would just like to say that B-String is one of the best contributers on any bass forum. Well respected on the GK forum and a very helpful and knowledgable guy. He really knows about GK kit. Also I'm pretty sure a replacement driver from Polar audio would not have cost much more than a Wembley recone. When you eventually get it back, if you are not happy with it Pm me and I may be able to get you one at trade plus postage. A couple years ago I had to replace my 15" GK combo driver, it cosy me £92. Good luck. Also, it is just as likely to be able to damage a speaker with an under powered amp. An overdriven power output stage and clipping are driver killers.[/quote] The cheapest I could find a replacement speaker was on Thomann.de for £125 (143 euro). Polar audio's quote was considerably more than that (I forget the exact amount but I remember it being about the same as buying half a new speaker cab). This was over a month ago so my memory is a little hazy. Thank you for the offer of getting it on trade, but hopefully I will not need to do that. We will see. Finally, I understand that the idea of damaging a speaker cab by underpowering it was a myth (my current cab is the neo 412, rated at 1200w rms at 4 ohm, but the most powerful amp GK makes is rated by them at 1080w rms at 4ohm, so underpowering would seem inevitable with GK gear, if it was an actual problem) Overdriven power amp I can understand, though I never turned the master up past like 2 o'clock before the problem happened.
  8. Just a quick revival of this thread. It finally looks like I'll be getting my speaker back reconed. I'm very aware that is has been more than a month since I sent it off and I intend to post a report on how well it works and also the service provided by Wembley Speakers. First though there is more faffing to do since apparently Wembley have posted the wrong speaker to me, meaning I'm going to have to ship it back to them as soon as it arrives. Without going into too much detail yet, this is fairly in line with the service I have received so far.
  9. Just a quick update, I have been quoted approximately £70 for Wembley to sort the speaker (inclusive of VAT and shipping). In the spirit of enquiry (and desire to spend less money) I'll be turning the speaker over to them to see what they can do. Overall I'm pretty optimistic about how it will all turn out. I'll post a report on how the fixed speaker matches up to the old one, and also how well the remaining driver coped with being caned whilst I was determining the problem.
  10. [quote name='stevie' post='743428' date='Feb 12 2010, 07:44 PM']You actually seem to have ignored the best piece of advice you have been given (by Alan). Call Wembley and ignore those 12-year olds on TalkBass.[/quote] Members of Talkbass have been very helpful to me, both now and in the past, why the hostility? And I didn't ignore anything. I've contacted Wembley and been looking into speaker repairs and will report here if I find anything that may be useful to other users (like whether it's more economical to get it repaired or replaced.)
  11. [quote name='MIJ-VI' post='743209' date='Feb 12 2010, 03:44 PM']Just in... [url="http://www.talkbass.com/forum/showpost.php?p=8687860&postcount=28"]http://www.talkbass.com/forum/showpost.php...mp;postcount=28[/url][/quote] Thanks for that, seems my only option. For my own reference, people are mentioning that having one speaker in the cab will damage the remaining speaker. The speaker is 16 ohm and rated for 300 watts. I understand that running it by itself will damage it, but why is that? The amp will be putting out around 300 watts at 16 ohm (at a guess), so is it because the higher impedance will somehow damage the speaker? Problem is that it had been run by itself fairly intensly before I diagnosed the problem. Hopefully it has escaped harm, but I guess I'll just have to see
  12. [quote name='JTUK' post='742866' date='Feb 12 2010, 10:13 AM']My reservations here are that you will be lucky to get away with just the one speaker being damaged. I hope that is not the case.[/quote] How so?
  13. [quote name='MIJ-VI' post='740501' date='Feb 9 2010, 11:51 PM']Right then! You've got it cornered! 1) Perhaps e-mailing G-K re sending you a re-cone kit to be installed by a local repair shop? 2) Have Gallien-Krueger send you a new speaker?[/quote] Unfortunately, having spoken to the GK contact in the UK, my speaker is out of warranty (I've had it for about 3 years) so they won't replace it and they do not offer a re-cone kit as far as I'm aware. Do you think there's any way I could remove the dust cap from the cone without causing irreperable damage? The only thing I can think of doing is getting at the wires that go to the voice coil and checking them.
  14. And finally I hit the root of the problem (for real this time!) Whilst checking the spade connectors I realised that the upper woofer isn't actually doing anything at all. This was confirmed when I tried running the speakers individually. It seems the air pressure from the working woofer in the cab was making the broken cone move in sympathy, tricking me into thinking it was still working. There are no signs of the speaker being damaged when examined, the cone moves back and forth easily with traces of why it wouldn't be working, all I know is that it isn't. Used a multimeter to test it too, showed up nothing on the broken speaker and what was expected on the working one. Seems that the fix is simple, get a new cone. No idea how I could fix this myself without damaging the cone. Bit of a bummer but at least I know at last where my problem is.
  15. Well, I've spent the weekend trying to diagnose the problem more thoroughly and it seems I was wrong in concluding that the problem was with the amplifier. Following B-string's (from talkbass) advice I rechecked my speaker cab with a different head and noticed something that is pretty much indisputable, the lower woofer is moving a LOT more than the upper one. This would seem to correlate with B-strings point about the speaker connectors. So I would guess that the upper woofer has a poor connection which has increased the overall impedance of the cab. I will try to fix this problem over the next couple of days. Thanks again to everyone for their advice
  16. [quote name='Phil Starr' post='735791' date='Feb 5 2010, 08:19 AM']Don't worry about the volume settings between the amps though, that's al about gain and sensitivity and a halfway position on one amps gain control need bear no relationship at all with halfway on any other amp. There is an excellent piece on this on this site but you could look at this too [url="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EbVKWCpNFhY"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EbVKWCpNFhY[/url]. Again if you play recorded music through the amp you should hear any problems as distortion. If you get the chance to try this then let us know what you find[/quote] Fair enough, but it is definitely pushing out less volume than two weeks ago (through different cabs when tested). Previously my master volume would be a shade under halfway for rehearsal, now it has to be almost fully up just to be heard faintly (not going to turn it up all the way, obviously). Currently the amp would be completely unsuitable for gigging. A fella on talkbass suggested that it may be something to do with the FX loop, so I'm going to try patching between the send and return to see if it makes a difference. Thanks for the link, I will try and get some music going through the amp later today. Edit: I've just watched the link
  17. [quote name='MIJ-VI' post='734924' date='Feb 4 2010, 12:04 PM']Mr. Obvious here: You might want to avoid powering up your 700RB-II in the interim.[/quote] No worries, now that I know it's the problem. I only tried my rig again after the tech said he couldn't find anything obviously wrong. Also, thank you for the effort you're putting in here
  18. So I got both the amp and cab back from the electronics shop yesterday, the tech said he could find nothing wrong with either. I managed to get a spare head to try though and have confirmed that the problem is definitely the head. Compared the GK 700rb II with an old Ashdown electric blue 180 watt amp. Set them both to approximately the same settings (EQ flat, master at halfway, input gain just below half) and the 180 watt ashdown was pushing out a hell of a lot more volume than the 320w (8 ohm) GK. Tried the GK in a rehearsal setting again. Where in the past I would turn the master up to about 11 o'clock, I now had to turn up the GK to around 3 o'clock just to be heard over the drums. Would not push it any more for obvious reasons. Used a different cab with both amps to double check, and different speaker cables. Don't know why there was a burning smell in the cab initially, but the most obvious problem is the head. Somehow the GK head is not producing the output it should (and has in the past). I've ruled out every other bit of my rig, and I'll be able to test the GK cab for any faults over the weekend when I get my Hartke head back from loan. Problem is I'm not aware of any amp techs in my area. I could take it back to the electronics shop again, now I now where the problem is, but I may get the same answer. Any ideas what could cause the amp to lower its ouput so much, so I can tell him what to look at?
  19. [quote name='MIJ-VI' post='732501' date='Feb 2 2010, 07:10 AM']Perhaps [url="http://www.gallien-krueger.com/dealers_world.html#"]G-K's dealer in England[/url] could recommend alternate repair shops? Have you tested your cab with a different amp? Do you have something like one of [url="http://www.pat-training.co.uk/socket_testers.htm"]these[/url] in your gig kit as a countermeasure to the inevitability of stage-wiring-by-club-owner's-brother-in-law? Here in the colonies an equivalent device is considered to be a potential life saver...[/quote] Unfortunately Polar-Audio, GK's UK distributors are completely useless. The staff seem to know nothing about the gear from the various companies they handle (GK, Beyerdynamic, etc.), only what the computer screen tells them. Most retailers I've questioned have also had little nice to say about them. Not had a chance to yet, will try over the weekend when I get my old head back from long term loan. I actually have a socket tester within arms reach as I type this. I'll re-test the room but I doubt I'll find anything. No worries, cheers for the advice anyway.
  20. Well, the people at PRS electronics in Liverpool were unable to find anything wrong with the cab itself, so I've dropped off the amp for them to check. I got the 700rb II 2nd hand about a year ago and it has been fine so far, so I'll see what they say. One other thought, could the power source have anything to do with this? The reason I ask is that the electricity in my band's rehearsal room is a bit dodgy (turn a lamp on from one socket and the PA powered from a different socket goes pop, kind of thing) and it's a possibility I haven't considered yet.
  21. Well, I removed and checked both coils and they both seem ok. Pushed both in evenly at the dustcap as suggested and didn't notice anything obviously out of place. There was also very little sign of any burning apart from a slight brown mark at the very back of one speaker (which could easily be something else harmless) and some of the fibre glass lining appeared melted near to the point where the cables connect to the other speaker cone. I'm stumped, think I'm going to get a fella at an electronics shop to look at it. Thanks for the help anyways. Any more suggestions would be welcome!
  22. ^ Cheers for the reply Not to worry, first thing I did when I smelled burning was to disconnect and separate the amp and cab. The power amp section on the amp never went past 1 o'clock, though I do make a lot of use of overdrive pedals. I wouldn't have thought they would actually damage a speaker though. The tweeter attenuator is low but never completely off. The damage to the 1/4" jack port is just cosmetic I think, just sheared off the plastic outer part in transit. The rest of the component seems fine. Think it was just coincidence that I noticed that just before the problem happened, but thought I'd mention it anyway. The input to the cab I was using at the time was GKs own speakon input which has separate signals going to the tweeter and woofers. It uses their 4-core cable but I don't think these have taken any damage.
×
×
  • Create New...