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Samuel Burns

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Posts posted by Samuel Burns

  1. 7 hours ago, Dan Dare said:

    A private individual is not  a business, unlike Bass Direct/bass shops. By what right are you demanding that that someone should post an item (and accept the risks of doing so) to you? If you want it so badly, either arrange your own courier/pick up or get off your behind and go and collect it.

    No seller is off the hook if they packed the item poorly! The courier is there to collect, not to oversee packaging and confirm everything is secure unless hired for such a service. If I, as seller, am a silly billy and throw the bass in a $5 carry case how is the courier or the buyer responsible when the bass gets damaged on its way to the buyer? No offense but I find this simply excuses for insecure sellers to sleep better at nights. You either offer both collection and shipping or just collection.

    Dan it is no demand. If not clearly stated in the  for sale ad "collection only" i will kindly ask the seller if posting would be an option, again "ask" not "demand". If the seller offers shipping I will then politely ask how will he ship? In a Tesco bag, original carton, HSC? I will always pay for the shipping costs, as is my obligation as a buyer.

    I am still trying to understand if there is a UK law relieving the seller from all liability when he ships an item only when the buyer "arranges own courier"?

    • Like 1
  2. I participate in many forums globaly and I have to say this is a british phenomenon. Almost every other ad says "buyer arranges own courier". This has to be the most bothersome thing to do in a sale. And as much I have read the answers of those that practise this, I still can't get it. "Collection only" is understandable, hustle free sale. But "buyer arranges own courrier"...

    • Like 1
  3. So this bass came up for sale near me. It's an Indo, the seller has made clear that the nut is stripped from a professional.... He's asking 150€ (a lot) but I'm going to offer 70€. A luthier localy is asking for at least 350€ without having even seen the bass, so I figured I'd shave the damaged alloy with a dremel and free the cavity then get a replacement screw with an allen head, use loctite or the likes and glue it in place tight. Now this is a dual action rod, which as I've found out, is welded to the nut. I have seen loctite holding many kilos of torque on cars, but I'm not sure wether something like this is possible. I've gotten mixed opinions on FB from luthiers, but thought I might ask the commnunity as well.

    IMG_1583660487386_31013.jpg

    IMG_1583660487394_66649.jpg

  4. 4 hours ago, Gottastopbuyinggear said:

    A few years ago I built this - effectively a Fender Champ clone but with s solid state rather than valve rectifier: http://www.ampmaker.com/store/WF-55-4w-tweed-style-amp.html.  However it seems that AmpMaker aren't currently taking orders (check the site for the reason - I daren't mention the word here!), so I'm not sure whether this will be an option within the next few months. 

    I spent quite a lot of time looking around for a suitable kit and at the time, for UK based suppliers at least, couldn't find very much at all other than AmpMaker.  There's quite a lot of stuff available from the US as I recall, and I also looked at a far east company called Ceriatone who had a pretty comprehensive range.  From a quick search it does look like there might be more options in the UK now, though.  (Edit - just spotted that you're in Germany, so these comments probably aren't relevant!)

    I found the instructions very comprehensive.  I spent a lot of time reading through them before I even bought the kit, and followed them to the letter.  I have a healthy appreciation of the dangers of 230v AC, but if you heed the warnings, follow the instructions carefully, and do absolutely all the checks, then you should be able to build safely.  I built the amp over a few days in the Christmas holiday period, maybe spending a couple of hours a day on it.

    The one small thing I did over and above the instructions when I was testing was to use a second multimeter constantly attached to the power supply capacitors so that I could always see whether they held any charge or not.

    The one I built was a turret board construction, and came with a pre-drilled chassis.  To answer the question "will it last", then I'd say absolutely yes, as long as you build it carefully in the first place.

    A final comment on safety.  You absolutely can't take any chances.  If you have even the slightest doubt about understanding the schematic (I don't mean how the amp works, but how to wire it up according to the schematic and instructions), or having the relevant practical skills to construct the circuit board, mount it and the other components, wire it all up correctly, and carry out all the tests, then you probably shouldn't embark on the project.  

    Thank you. I was actually going to try and source a decent kit from the UK, because the pricing in Germany is ridiculous! I haven't built anything in a long time, but I have a very good understanding of circuit schematics  although my builds where hi-fi amplifiers, pedals, power supplies and in general devices operating with low voltages and currents. My concerns where about how carefully these amps where designed and if people have actually built and operated them sucessfully.

    I will be having a lot of time off in the coming year and I wanted to put my time into builds that don't take up much space, are rewarding and when finished have a function other than hanging from a wall.

  5. So I actually got a decent deal for the Tour 450 and a 410TVX for £250.The amp offers loads of different sounds, very present in the middle frequencies (found it very unpleasing), surprisingly quiet function I might add. Still messing with it, I'm having trouble having my Ray34 to sound like one through this amp.

  6. To be honest I have never really thought about the legal side of things. I'm not planing on building to sell on, but you made a solid point. I'd have to check with local laws on the issue.

    Any insights on the actual task at hand? Are these kits calculated to last or not?

  7. I've been toying with the idea lately to build a tube amp from a kit. Has anyone here ever tried one that they can recommend? Are there any tips in general, because I don't want to start something that for marketing reasons is represented as fairly easy. I have some background as a hobby electronic and from technical education in high school so I believe I can finish a kit.

    • Like 1
  8. On 22/11/2019 at 20:25, Bill Fitzmaurice said:

    Do you play with the amp dimed and ignore the warning of impending doom that heavy distortion signifies? If so you can blow that cab with a fifty watt amp. If you play at sensible levels and turn it down if the speakers sound strained you won't harm it with a thousand watt amp.

    This will be my first rig, thus my dumb questions. My only experience is a PF-500 through a 1X15" Ampeg at the practise room and my own practise amp.

  9. I have been playing only at home with a practise amp and at the practise studio with a PF-500 through an Ampeg 115. I decided to get my first rig, for maybe small gigs and to get my own tone in the practise room. Since it's my first, and I don't know how far I'm going to get with the band I'm currently in, I decided to go used in hope of to get good, cheap gear and if things go south I get to get back most of my money. I've narrowed my search down to the "Peavey 700 tour series" and the "Hartke HA3500". The Peavey is stronger, more robust while the Hartke comes with both a SS and a tube preamp but has less maximum output. Both have a bright band EQ and receive great reviews across many boards. Are there any pros and cons or any tips you could give me for each of these amps? Which would you recommend to a new starter like myself?

     

    Thanks in advance!

    • Like 1
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