John Cribbin
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Posts posted by John Cribbin
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I'd try Kent Armstrong, they have been doing custom stuff forever.
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I'd guess box spanner, they have pretty thin walls.
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For years, I've protected new cables and cabs with Armor All Protactant, you can get it from most car accessory stores.
For old stuff. I wipe down with warm soapy water and use naptha for any sticky crud. Then I apply the Armor All. About once a year, I'll spray some on a kitchen roll and pull the cables through a few times, removes the old dirt and reapplies the protection.
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You need agedhorse who is one of the guru's at Mesa Boogie and is very active helping with MB issues.
I don't know if he is still active here, but I'm probably breaking a forum rule by suggesting if he doesn't pick up here, post the issue on Talkbass were he's certainly active.
Good luck with getting your issue resolved.
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Good luck for the op and a speedy recovery.
OK here's the tough love. Don't ask a bunch of randoms for medical advice, it won't end well.
You follow doctor / therapists advice. If recovery is slow, so be it. If you rush back before your body has recovered, you may cause more damage than you had pre op.
Take care and be patient it will be worth it in the long run.
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Years ago, I had similar with an Ibanez. I bought a cheap set from eBay to canabilise for spares. Something like this:
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You could used another sticker on the front, job done!
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Depending on age, Peavey may be able to help. Other than that, you may be forced to keep looking at eBay until somebody offers a used part. If the demand becomes high enough, at some point, somebody will create a 3D printed part.
In the meantime, I'd suggest velcro to keep the battery in place.
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It's a bit difficult to work out without the above details but ....
Working on the assumption that the loose wire has not strayed far from it's home, the bottom right connector just below the loose wire in the first two photos, does not have anything connected to it.
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Bunion's diagnosis is the most likely diagnosis.
Don't know your unit, so this is guesswork ....
If the pots are soldered directly to the PCB, there's a good chance if you remove the knobs and loosen the nuts underneath the contents will come out.
Or not as the case may be.
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Now that's easy peasey lemon squeezy.
Last one of those I dealt with I brushed on some Ronseal water based gloss varnish with an artists brush. Built up the level in several layers lightly sanding out any exess with 1500-4000 wet and dry. Finally using the T-Cut to bring up the shine.
I used the Ronseal, because it's what I had handy. A tube of touch up clear coat from a car repair shop would do as well.
There are those who use nail varnish or superglue on a scrape like that, but those are not methods I've tried yet ....
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I've had good results using T-Cut on guitars, but I've not tried on a metallic finish ....
My guess would be that clear coat is sprayed on top of the metallic in the same way they do on cars. In that case you should be fine. Without a clear coat, you would be polishing the metallic coat and that may be potentially problematic ...
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3 hours ago, Bigguy2017 said:
They never seem to last for long. Switchcraft are better than most.
Has anyone tried the Pure Tone ones with four spring contacts?
Pure Tone Hmmmm .....
I've not used or have any intention of using them. I have seen on some forums a few people raving about them and how they will last longer than the existing jacks. Now considering we are all aware of thousands of instruments and amps from the 50's and 60's that still have their original jacks still working, come back in 2080 and tell me they are still going strong.
They may sound good on paper. but in a guitar situation, I'd say they are nothing more than a solution looking for a problem.
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I've posted this photo before.
My active Ibanez had a faulty barrel jack and was replaced with a traditional stereo Switchcraft socket. It'll still be working long after I'm gone.
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Appart from stuff already mentioned. you'd have to recut the slots in the nut to fit those.
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A guitar needs to have an earth, that is part of the circuit.
It does not need to have shielding, that is the paint or tape in the cavities which helps reduce hum/interference.
If you can post photos we may be able to see the issue.
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Hmm, like the Borg say resistance is futile ....
Magnet type, inductance, number of winds, tightness off wind, potting. It all makes a difference.
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Could be the ground from the bridge? But that wouldn't stop the tone working.
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Unfortunately, you may need a selection to try.
The nuts may start out as either 4 of 5 mm, but for whatever reason get rounded and the correct size no longer fits.
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Forget about it!
Stain is designed to work on unfinished wood. To make it work on a previously finished surface, you would have to ensure that every bit of the old stuff is removed. That includes stuff that's sunk into the wood. Any wood that is not completely stripped will in effect have a partial seal that the stain will not sink into. You end up with a patchy ugly finish.
The top is almost certainly plywood. To strip the existing finish completely, there is every chance that the top layer will be sanded through. You end up with a patchy ugly finish.
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Don't get to hung up on water based, check the specs.
Most car manufacturers spray cars with water based paint these days.
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Hopefully this doesn't upset the mods....
Go over to TDPRI (just for this topic obviously!). They have quite a few pickup winders there. One of the sub forums is for all stuff DIY. There's a pickup winding thread going at the moment. People there are almost as helpful as here!
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Asian pickguard and pick-up mount screws
in Repairs and Technical
Posted
As it's Japanese, there's a good chance they've used JIS screws.