RustInPeace90

Hey

Here I have a set of Hipshot Ultralite 3/8 tuning pegs in chrome. These have the "Fender style" clover leaf pegs on them. I bought them to upgrade my bass but I then decided I want to make all the hardware black after fitting them so they were on the bass all of 10 minutes. These are the 4 in-a-line set too.

Admittedly, in the process of fitting one of them, i managed to slightly damage the corner of one of the nuts that tighten the peg to the headstock. My spanner slipped off and chipped the edge of it. It doesn't affect it but i have to mention it as i'm selling them.

I paid £70 plus postage for the set so i'm looking for £50 back from them so i can put that towards a black set for my bass or I will trade for a black set. Doesn't have to be clover peg ones, just has to be black 3/8" set. Reversible or non-reversible, doesn't matter which. Postage will be £5 so £55 posted.

I've tried to photo the damage to the corner of the bolt in pictures 3 & 4 but it hasn't really shown up as it's minimal scuffing but for the sake of being truthful, i've mentioned it and photoed it.

Thanks!

Paypal or bank transfer if posted, cash on collection welcome if collected.

[IMG]http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w99/Stevie_Dewar/2E6FA0A1-307F-42A8-9673-35375070931A_zpsbvkpbapb.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w99/Stevie_Dewar/4410D787-023A-413D-84E1-1854B945014E_zpsjyowsmcx.jpg[/IMG]

When I get to doing it (sometime this weekend looks more likely) I'll post some pictures as I go along. Y'know, as long as I don't kill myself some how or feck my amp up royally!

Thanks for all the tips and pointers KB, icastle & dad3533

[quote name='Dad3353' timestamp='1424739263' post='2699991']
I'd suggest simply running a short length of screened 'mic' cable between the present jack solder joints and the rear socket pins. No-one is going to be plugging into both at once, and, even if they did, what harm could it do..? Sometimes simple is best.
The cable shown in the link would work, but is overkill for the job. Have you not a jack lead with a busted jack that you could cannibalize..? You don't need vintage, cloth wrapped stuff; that's for pimping guitars. It'll work, but there are cheaper solutions, just as efficient.
Just my tuppence-worth.
[/quote]

Hey dude, sorry for ignoring your reply in my last post, i didn't see the last 3 posts on here until just now. I don't have any shielded cables around that i can break up at the moment so i've just ordered some. It's only £3.75 so it's not too expensive and if it'll do the job then i don't mind paying it.

If i'm reading what you said properly about where to attach the wires then i think that's what i was thinking of doing to test it out. But either way, i shall definitely bare this in mind for when i have a go at it.
Thank you for the advise

[quote name='icastle' timestamp='1424695280' post='2699177']
You can use that cable, but you only actually need a single core plus shield.
The earth connection isn't optional, it won't work without it.

The earth cable is used to connect the 'sleeve' contacts of the two sockets together.
The cores are used to carry signals from the 'tip'contacts.
If you try and replace the earth braid with core cable you'll most likely get an awful hum.
[/quote]

On that advice i ordered some of the single core stuff with the braided shield round it. Bought 2 x 2ft lengths of it so that should do the job and i'll have spare just in case!

[quote name='icastle' timestamp='1424695280' post='2699177']
I suspect it might not be that simple.
When you insert a jack plug it does two things, first up it connects the signal to the input of the amplifier, secondly it quite possibly removes a connection from something else (an anti thump ircuit for example).

Worst case scenario is that you 'might' need to stick a jackplug into whichever socket you aren't using.

If that's the case, and I never wanted to use the front socket again, I'd be inclined to slide a couple of thin plastic shims between the socket contacts and 'arms' to break that front socket connection.
[/quote]

Hmm, well what i may try and do is to attach the wire to the 2 lugs on the front jack then just touch them against the socket i'd be using for the rear input but have my cable plugged in to see if there's a signal. If that doesn't work, i'll try it against the other 2 lugs then failing that, stick something in the front jack to break the connection.

[quote name='KingBollock' timestamp='1424715149' post='2699538']
I did wonder about that, but then, for some reason, chose to not consider it. Would one way around it be to disconnect the post break lugs of the front socket from the circuit board, then wire them to the pre-break lugs on the rear socket. Then go from the post break, rear lugs, back to the front, into the holes left vacant by the front socket?

Does that make sense?
[/quote]

I think i know what you men by that, again i'm stupidly replying when i'm desperately tired which is never a good idea. As said in the previous bit replying to icastle's suggestion, i'll try touching some the wires on the jacks together to see which way will work.

What i'm hoping for is what you said about before where putting a jack in to the front input would disable the back input but not the other way round just for ease of use if i'm ever lending my amp head out to other bands at gigs and they can just run their cables in to the front of my amp without unplugging my cables from the back. (i don't usually like letting others use things like my Sansamp and compressor for obvious reasons).

With a bit of luck all the bits will be here by friday so i'll be able to report more by then.

I can't help you with where to get the pick up from apart from on eBay or here if they pop up but i've heard the Aguilar OBP-2 (and 3) pre amps with those pick ups and they sound amazing so that would get my vote then you just need to choose whether to go for 2 or 3 band.

Correct me if I'm wrong here but from what you're saying, I need to use the pins connected to the 2 lugs that don't lift on the front input but to the 2 that do lift on the rear input?

Thanks very much KB!

Edit: is this the sort of cable you think I should use?
http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=191502194984

I always use Graphtech Black Tusq nuts on all my guitars and basses, never had a problem with a single one. They last, they let the strings guide through without resistance and it would look especially good with the black binding on your Geddy! I believe its the PT1214 for jazz basses

edit: on closer inspection and comparison, it's a 4 pin mono socket so i've just ordered some 4 core shielded cable (£1 per metre) and a 4 pin chassis jack socket (£1.25) from Audio Spares. £2 postage. Should be here Wednesday.

In the mean time though, i still need to know how to do this haha

[quote name='icastle' timestamp='1424655697' post='2698883']
Nothing wrong with doing that.

A couple of things to remember though.

1) Make sure you put a cloth anywhere that swarf could get or you'll end up risking a short circuit.
I'd use it as a good excuse to get the hoover out and give everything a thorough (gentle) dust afterwards.

2) Your warranty (if you have one) will be void.

3) If you're running from the front to the back of the amp, you'll probably be needing to used shielded cable.

HTH
[/quote]

Oh aye i would be laying one of those anti-static sheets over the PCB boards to keep "swarf" (had to look up what that meant, guessed it was shavings/dust etc though) away and i definitely will be taking a hoover to it after. I have a mini USB powered one which should do the trick.

As for the warranty, it's out of warranty now anyway as it's about (so many) years old so I don't really mind doing this. If i think I may end up selling the amp at some point though, i will probably take it to a tech to be done professionally.

This is the cable i was thinking of getting for it, it's a 6 core plus 1 earth cable. I wouldn't know where to send the earth cable to though and it's probably pointless isn't it?

(photo for reference)



[quote name='KingBollock' timestamp='1424656697' post='2698888']
It looks like the socket is the kind with switched contacts. So if you wire the rear socket after the switched contacts the rear socket will be disconnected if there is anything plugged into the front. I am trying to think how you can do it the other way around, too, but can't get my head around it right now, too bloomin' tired. I need to figure it out, though, because I intend to do the same with my Peavey T-Max.
[/quote]

Yeah it has the contacts in the jack socket that (excuse the poor terminology here, i too am tired) "spread" open when the jack is inserted. What i was thinking of doing was running 4/6 wires from the solder terminals underneath the front input, lightly twisting them together (to keep them neat) and putting heat shrink tubing over them to keep the out the way then just copying the wire layout on to a jack socket that's the same as the front input one.

Again, please excuse me if none of this makes sense. I'm running on bugger all sleep and keep having "what if i do this..." and "maybe i should get that..." or "maybe i'll trade (insert piece) for (insert piece)..." so this is my main mind boggler tonight!

Thanks for the help so far both of you and if you think of anything KingB0ll0ck then please let me know.

Hello

I have an Ampeg B2R in my rack rig but it annoys me having to keep an open slot for running a cable through to it so i have been thinking of installing a rear input on the amp so i can keep all the cables in the back of the rig and keep everything tidy.

Has any one on here ever done this before to an amp and has it worked properly? Also, is it dangerous in any way? (i'm guessing not as it's seems like it's simply a case of running some wires from the existing input and wiring them to the rear input in the same order?)

There seems to be plenty of room inside to place it and plenty of space on the back of the amp too. Would something like this need a switch involved on it to stop the other from working at the same time?

Thanks!

(photo from google of the inside of a B2R back -> front)

Yes it would, exact same pocket dimensions.

How much for just the retrovibe pre amp?

Don't all rush to reply at once guys

[s]Hey guys

My trusty DBX 1066 compressor has recently developed a bit of a fault. Well, 2 faults actually but one I tried to ignore.

Basically, on channel one of my 1066, the output meter is very intermittent and sometimes just stops working. DBX have said this could be a problem with the molex connectors (bastard things) or just the LED meter being faulty. This problem I can ignore, it's the main one that worries me.

Again on channel one, every once in a while the sound will drop out near completely leaving a thin husk of a sound, kinda fuzzy sounding and keeps doing this. For a while I tooibht it was my Sansamp or my actual Amp but I switched over to channel 2 on the compressor and the problem hasn't occurred since (touch wood). I know some people will just say "well why don't you just use channel 2?" Which is all well and good but I ised to have my compressor set up with channel one for passive basses and channel two for my active bass.

My signal chain is bass (Fender Precision or Jackson CMG) -> DBX 1066 -> Sansamp RBI -> Ampeg B2R (with a Korg DTR1000 tuner in the effects loop of the Ampeg).

I tried it all with out the DBX first to see if it was that and everything else worked fine so that lead me to try channel two which worked fine so it must be channel one.

Anyone know what it could be? I'm really annoyed this has happened as its a big part of my rig.

Thanks![/s]

Ignore, turns out the molex connector on the LED meter had shook slightly loose so after pushing it back down, it fixed everything. No problems at all now & works perfectly.

I have 3 basses I miss although only 2 of them i would buy back

1: Spector Legend Classic 5 in trans cherry red. My first 5 string and my first (and only to date) Spector. Bought it as I wanted a Spector so bad and wanted to delve in to 5 strings. Couldn't get on with the 5th string and ended up selling it. Regret selling it but wouldn't buy another. Bought and sold it for £300.

2: Tobias Toby Deluxe V: Bought it for £100 off here with the intention of fixing it up and giving 5 strings another go (this was a year after the Spector). Stuck a badass V bridge on it, EMG BQC pre amp and it was one of the best basses I ever owned. This time, i wasn't really using the low B much so i felt it was a waste, went back to my 4 string P bass and moved the Tobias on. Really wish I hadn't of done it and would happily buy it back if I could. Sold it for £200.

3: Squier VM77 Jazz bass. Black with maple board. Came originally with the pearl bound/blocked board but i swapped the neck with someone who had the natural VM Jazz (maple, black bound/blocked board) so it looked more like the Geddy Lee bass (after all that was the reason I bought it) then fitted a blue pearl pick guard, Fender neck plate, CTS & switchcraft electronics, graph tech black tusq nut, bridge/pick up ashtray covers and slung it low with flat wounds. Felt perfect to play and sounded good (i planned on upgrading the pick ups to SD QP Jazz at some point, didn't get round to it) but I needed money so it had to go. I would definitely buy it back if i could. Sold it for £250. It was worth more than that for definite!

Thanks for replying Lozz.

With my amp (it's an Ampeg B2R) which only puts out 350w (which I believe is at 4ohm though so only 250w at 8ohm), I run the para EQ on flat with the graphic switched in when needed only slightly boosting mids/highs. I've never actually run the amp above 5 either so it's not been maxed out.

With that in mind, would that cause a problem?

Hi Greg,

Thanks for your reply. I understand that the cabs are tuned to the speakers spec and this is one thing i would kind of been worried about. I used to use a 4x12 that had a mix of celestions and eminence speakers in it. I didn't notice any discernable difference but then again, I didn't know the speakers where different until id owned it for a few years so I didn't really know much difference with it.

As for where I found it, it was on thomann, I'll post the link below. Available immediately too.
http://www.thomann.de/gb/hartke_10_ersatzlautsprecher.htm

Hope that helps your friend

Hey guys and girls.

I've got an Ampeg SVT410HE cab which I love but I also love the old Hartke 410XL cabs with the aluminium speakers so I was thinking of trading out 2 of the speakers in my Ampeg for a couple of the Hartke aluminium speakers. Essentially, I'd have it so I had the 2 Ampeg ones at the bottom with the 2 aluminium ones above that.

My main question is whether or not this would be dangerous for the cab at all?
I would go for 2 cabs but I don't want to lug 2 cabs about and I don't want to move down to using 2 2x12 cabs or changing my cab. I considered getting one of the new Hartke HyDrive cabs as they sound phenomenal but they're a bit expensive.

The speakers (new) are £50 and there rated 8ohm @ 100w each where as my cab is an 8ohm cab rated at 500w.

Has anyone mixed speakers before? Did it work?

Hi IKAY,

I've added this to the original post but here are the dimensions:

External Dimensions: 197 x 546 x 445 mm

Internal depth: 311mm.

Weight: 4.5kg

Oh sorry, you would be welcome to collect it or ill have it couriered for an extra £6

Hello

I'm looking to sell my 3U Gator Rack Case. I got this last year to temporarily store my bass amp before I got my bigger case (which is also for sale on here). I only used it for about a month as i didn't want to damage my new amp and it's sat ever since with my spare rack drawer and pre amp to keep them safe but i'm sure someone else will benefit from this more than me! I paid £75 for it from GAK so i'm looking to recoup around half of that.

Anyway, as said, it's basically new still and only left the house twice for band practise. Front and back butterfly clips, removable foam pads inside each lid for added protection, metal handles on each side and front and back racks.

External Dimensions: 197 x 546 x 445 mm

Internal depth: 311mm.

Weight: 4.5kg

Picture below

Thanks
R.I.P.!

Hello there

I'm looking to sell my 10u rack case.

It doesn't have a make on it so i'm afriad i can't put anything for that but it's a standard plastic moulded case with metal rack rails and 4 butterfly catches on each side.

Condition wise, it is very used and the rear rack got partially removed by the previous owner so you can only mount units in the front of the case (which was never a problem to me). Apart from that, all the locks, handles & doors are fully functional and there are no cracks in the case. it's served me well for the last year but i'm thinning down my bass rig so i have no use for it any more.

I haven't got any pictures but it's exactly the same as the one below

Collection is welcome or i will courier for an extra £8!

Thanks
R.I.P.!