alittlebitrobot

There's obviously no right answer, but Bakithi uses rounds, so I use rounds.

Yeah, I agree - I'm reshaping the pickguard and will probably have to rout the cavity a wee bit so I think I can fit three pots while keeping the input jack where it is. I'm just not convinced about the VVT approach. I'd like to have some blend so I'm exploring my options now.

Beautiful combo! I just bought a squire Bronco and I'm replacing the stock p'up with two jazz pickups like yours. I was going to go for full-fat jazz bass wiring (volume, volume, tone) but I see you've just got two pots. What's the wiring setup?

With orders coming in thick and fast and companies bending (their employees) over backwards to deliver your order the very same day or sooner, it's bound to happen. The thing is how they deal with it. They once sent me my order of 4-5 small to medium sized items, and everything was there, except there was also a 4 pack of Vic Firth drumsticks. Maybe one of the staff was just feeling generous. [insert Oprah Winfrey meme "and YOU get drumsticks, and YOU get drumsticks!.."]

Hi @deadshed Buying from the UK has become fairly nightmarish post-Brexit. The cost of postage in both directions is insane and then there's customs. I occassionally buy and sell in the classifieds section here - if I'm selling, I go across the border and post from Newry to avoid the other stuff but when it comes to buying, I have to include a hefty mark-up postage and customs markup in my budget when it comes to buying from other BC'ers. An Post have a thing called Address Pal that gives you a virtual UK address, so that reduces the cost of postage to the seller, but it's not way of bypassing the other costs to yourself. Adverts and DoneDeal are the best place to buy second-hand and, in my experience, Gear4Music are the best option for new (or B-stock) gear because they're fulfilled from Ireland so the postage is cheap and there's no import. Anyway, welcome (where's NA?)

Yeah, another vote for keeping the thin pink line. This is coming together so nicely.

Haven't done one of these for a year (or two?), I'd love to give this a go if I can find the time.

Sub'd So good to see this here. I looked at that listing every day for a couple of weeks thinking "will I, won't I?" Keep us posted. I'm sure this is gonna be great 👍

Yes yes yes. That is gorgeous.

For me, because changing the blade is a massive pain in the joolies, I tend to stick with the widest blade. It's best for straight cuts, and anything with a tight corner can be achieved with relief cuts, rather than one continuous cut.

Nice one! First of all, really take the time to set it up. True the table, get everything nice and perpendicular, watch videos about how to get the blade tension right (extremely tight is not better - it can lead to wandering when trying to cut a straight line), remember to de-tension the blade after every session (and remember to tension before turning it on the next time!) Dust collection is a necessity. As with any power tool; let the tool do the work. Don't push wood through with any force - let the gullets clear to avoid burning the woods and overheating the blade. Watch this video. The bandsaw was invented for butchers to cut through bone. Bear that in mind. A lot of people who've been maimed by a bandsaw got bit when they were pushing the piece through and, just at the end, an unexpected soft spot in the wood meant that the last centimetre or so happened way quicker than they were expecting, and the thumb followed through... Always use a push stick or sacrificial block for that last bit of the cut when the blade is about to pop out. Never cross-cut through a pipe/cylinder (eg. a log) freehand - make a jig. See YouTube. If cutting curves (like a body blank) make sure you have a blade of the right width for the job. Narrow blades are good for tight bends but less reliable for long, straight cuts - and vice versa. Snapping a bandsaw blade is a real change of underwear moment. The one time I did it, I realised in hindsight that I'd been so focused on the curve I was cutting, I lost track of where "straight" was. That is, the imaginary straight line from the front of the bandsaw, through the blade, and out the back. I had been moving the wood (MDF actually) around the table in a way that was twisting the blade. The great thing about the bandsaw, unlike the table saw, is that it's not trying to suck your fingers in or throw wood at you. If you're making a cut and you don't like how it's going, just stop pushing, leave one hand on the workpiece and turn off the saw with the other. It's a great tool, and it looks like you've got a good one. Enjoy!

That's good to know. I've a bunch of wood from an old front door. I'm pretty sure it's mahogany but I was wondering if it might be teak. No particularly noticeable smell when cut.