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alittlebitrobot

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About alittlebitrobot

  • Birthday 01/01/1984

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    Ireland

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  1. Could you post the measurements whenever you get a chance, please?
  2. Haven't done one of these for a year (or two?), I'd love to give this a go if I can find the time.
  3. Sub'd So good to see this here. I looked at that listing every day for a couple of weeks thinking "will I, won't I?" Keep us posted. I'm sure this is gonna be great 👍
  4. Yes yes yes. That is gorgeous.
  5. Just bumping again to clarify that this is a full electronics kit, not just the pickups.
  6. For me, because changing the blade is a massive pain in the joolies, I tend to stick with the widest blade. It's best for straight cuts, and anything with a tight corner can be achieved with relief cuts, rather than one continuous cut.
  7. Nice one! First of all, really take the time to set it up. True the table, get everything nice and perpendicular, watch videos about how to get the blade tension right (extremely tight is not better - it can lead to wandering when trying to cut a straight line), remember to de-tension the blade after every session (and remember to tension before turning it on the next time!) Dust collection is a necessity. As with any power tool; let the tool do the work. Don't push wood through with any force - let the gullets clear to avoid burning the woods and overheating the blade. Watch this video. The bandsaw was invented for butchers to cut through bone. Bear that in mind. A lot of people who've been maimed by a bandsaw got bit when they were pushing the piece through and, just at the end, an unexpected soft spot in the wood meant that the last centimetre or so happened way quicker than they were expecting, and the thumb followed through... Always use a push stick or sacrificial block for that last bit of the cut when the blade is about to pop out. Never cross-cut through a pipe/cylinder (eg. a log) freehand - make a jig. See YouTube. If cutting curves (like a body blank) make sure you have a blade of the right width for the job. Narrow blades are good for tight bends but less reliable for long, straight cuts - and vice versa. Snapping a bandsaw blade is a real change of underwear moment. The one time I did it, I realised in hindsight that I'd been so focused on the curve I was cutting, I lost track of where "straight" was. That is, the imaginary straight line from the front of the bandsaw, through the blade, and out the back. I had been moving the wood (MDF actually) around the table in a way that was twisting the blade. The great thing about the bandsaw, unlike the table saw, is that it's not trying to suck your fingers in or throw wood at you. If you're making a cut and you don't like how it's going, just stop pushing, leave one hand on the workpiece and turn off the saw with the other. It's a great tool, and it looks like you've got a good one. Enjoy!
  8. That's good to know. I've a bunch of wood from an old front door. I'm pretty sure it's mahogany but I was wondering if it might be teak. No particularly noticeable smell when cut.
  9. Me again. This never sold, then I had a baby, and now I'm slowly getting back to reality 😁 So I'm bumping this with a note to any potential buyers; if you're in the UK and you're willing to be patient, I am willing to hop across the border and post this from Northern Ireland to avoid any import duty etc.
  10. Holy mackerel, a Rob Allen. Some day....
  11. Just got a lovely set of strings from @spacecowboy Good communication and speedy delivery. What more do you want. Highly recommended seller 👍
  12. I was on Denmark street years ago, looking at all the nice things I can't afford. I played a Peavey Grind at the time, so when I saw a Cirrus, I wanted to know what the difference was. The second I had it in my lap, I could tell it was spectacular. The guy working there was bemused, and amused, that I wasn't bothered about plugging it in. God I wish I could get on with the 35" scale cause otherwise the Peavey neck is made for me.
  13. Kala Ubass with a LOT of packing.
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