olliedf89

Tony bought a pedal from me and it was a good experience all round, and he was wonderfully patient through the annoyance of postage delays! Lovely chap, highly recommended. Thanks. 

MXR Bass Distortion £100 posted

Bought this brand new for £130 about 6 weeks ago, good pedal but found some other things I prefer since. Forgot to return it to Anderton’s in time.

brand new condition with box etc had about an hours play time

Darkglass Vintage Microtubes SOLD posted

Bought this second hand on here a few years ago, I think it’s an older model, sounds great and offers a lovely vintage style overdrive. Served me well but time to move it on. Good but used condition with box.

Bananana Effects Matryoshka Synth SOLD posted

Bought new last year from amazon for £189 and it’s fun but I have other ways I like to get my sounds so it’s goodbye!
has box etc and is in essentially brand new condition but with velcro.

All pedals in good working order and with postage included within UK.
I am open to trades but not looking for anything specific right now. 

Fire away any questions! Thanks!

PM’d!

Sold pending usual...

Hey all...

I’ve got a Malekko Scrutator which I love and use all the time- has since new 3/4 years ago, but it’s just started playing up.

I really need to get it fixed but don’t know the best route to go down. I’ve contacted Malekko but not heard back yet- their website wasn’t overly helpful.

Would I be best to find an amp fixer? I’m in Sussex and I don’t know of anyone locally- took a pedal once to a locally recommended chap and it ended up worse off so and I ended up £200 down so I’m a bit anxious about trying anyone who isn’t highly recommended. 

Id do it myself but i looked inside and it was way beyond me 😂😂

Any and all advice appreciated! 

Ollie

Hi all, selling my EQD Bit Commander, I'm sure you all know of this one by now.

1 octave down, 1 sub, 1 octave up, dry signal and all are affected by distortion/bit crushing lovelyness.

Selling because I don't use it as I have other pedals that do the same job.

£110 posted- original box and candy etc. Owned for about 18 months and only really used a handful of times. It's the V2. Picture to follow.

NOW SOLD THANKS

Earthquaker Devices Sea Machine Chorus V2

Crazy little chorus pedal, full of warble and wobble and makes for an interesting chorus. Owned since new for a year or so I think. Works great, sounds great, original box and bits.

£110  NOW £100 posted within UK

smallsound/bigsound Team Awesome! Fuzz Machine- NOW SOLD

Great fuzz with clean blend and a gated boost button which maxes out the fuzz setting. Can go from simple overdriven sounds to all-out war fuzz sounds. Bought on here a wee while ago, works great, sounds great, original box.

NOW SOLD

No trades for now thanks... unless you have an interested envelope filter... I'm saving up for a Proton.

Hi all, I recently saved up all my pennies and bought myself a Tensor for a bit of fun. It's bloody amazing! I thoroughly recommend everyone at least tries one at some point, it's wicked.

Ive noticed a problem, however, that in a certain mode in combination with certain knob twiddles (it's a complicated pedal) I'm getting a clipping/distorted sound, like a dodgy cable or connection. Now the pedal works fine and does what it should do, but every time I switch to this mode (which happens to be my favourite so far) it clips and fizzles like the speaker cant take the sound. Now I've tried everything you normally would- cables/amps/power supplies/basses/firmware update etc etc and it still does it. The settings are NXT mode with sound captured, with both Rand and Time engaged, it is MUCH more apparent when I use the expression pedal to bring in these controls, though does it without it. It happens erratically and I can't actively trigger it to happen- also not to be confused with the glitchy purposeful pops that can be found. Being a brand new pedal I haven't opened it up or anything just yet.

However, I shot Red Panda a message (as it's such a complicated and expensive little pedal and it did get sent from DV247- now in Germany) because I wanted to be sure I wasn't doing anything wrong.

Andy at Red Panda has been very helpful and informed me it was likely that it wasn't receiving the correct mA, which is stated to be 250mA on the rear of the pedal and Andy himself said it runs better closer to 300mA, especially when using a lot of the features as there is more headroom and less chance of it breaking up. Fine, some pedals need that, however, I don't have a power supply that will give me that (he suggested using a onespot- though I haven't heard great things about them and don't really wanna drop £20 on one just for the sake of it) and I've run through a standard 9v Boss power supply (200mA) and a Voodoo Labs Pedal Power 2 (which has options from 100mA to 250mA) but none of these seem to work.

"you will need to use a larger mA power supply. A lot of power supplies are supplying just under what it claims it can do and the power can waver, and so Tensor needs to be fed with over 250 mA to operate at its best and not break up when using full power. Do you think you could borrow a one-spot or something to try this?"

My fears (and hopes to some extent) are that it is faulty, but if it ISNT and this is just how the pedal works, can anyone tell me? I don't want to return it and swap it for a new one just to find the same problem, but I also don't feel I would regularly use a pedal that requires SUCH specific power that it wont work with one of the most widely available power supplies in use- which never gives me trouble by the way. I mean part of the reason I dropped £300 on this and not £250 on the Pigtronix Mothership was that I wouldn't need a different power supply for just one pedal.

Any help would be greatly appreciated!!!

EDIT:
I got a onespot. still made the noise. RP confirmed they used same Voodoo Labs power supply anyway and I surmised that the unit was faulty after all, return is all sorted and fingers crossed for a new working Tensor next week or two! boom.

Just now, dodge_bass said:

On the Green Onion - is input one linked to output one and input two to output two? It do both outputs have the same signal coming out?

No, they are the same output, my original request was two outputs to bi-amp my sound so the two inputs are separate for two different instruments and the two outputs are the same.

Rat tail sold, posting tomorrow.

Last pedal left:

Darkglass B3K

Y'all know about this one, great little overdrive pedal, it's in good working condition and sounds grand. I believe this is one of the earlier USA models (number 741 inside). Bought on here a few years ago.

£75 posted in original box- no bits though.

Pedals will come in their own box if possible or a different box and well packaged and sent through first class royal mail within the UK. Postage discount for collection around Worthing area.

No trades at this time... saving up for something fancy. Thanks! Fire away any questions!

PM'd

PM'd

Hi all,

Selling my one week old flat light flanger, bought brand new and played with for an hour or two but it's just not my thing. I would return it from whence it came but I've done that a couple times recently and I feel bad so I'm popping it up here.

Perfect, as new condition but with Velcro on the bottom because I got over excited when I got it. All the box and papers and extras are there too.

Patrick Hunter does a great bass demo of this online if you want to check it out.

Price is £150 posted. 

Wanna get me some malekko instead!

Any questions shoot em over!

On 11/01/2018 at 13:13, Pearl_Jammin said:

Bummppp - some interest but still available.

Hey is this still for sale? Will PM!

On 26/02/2018 at 14:23, willcoupland said:

Is this still available mate?

Yes, PM replied

10 minutes ago, uzzell said:

I read this thread with great interest as I have noticed a similar problem with my Sandberg JM5 (tuned E-C). It was great to see all the potential fixes documented here so a personal thanks to all those who contributed. I may very well go down the route of a hi-mass bridge too. I see you went with the Fender one, so just wondering what people's thoughts are regarding alternatives? Anything particularly recommended or advised to stay away from? Cheers.

Ah glad it helped! Thank god it wasn't just me!

I chose the Fender hi mass purely because it was an almost identical physical replacement as far as screw holes and string spacing, then the reviews and price just backed it up. So that's my silly reasoning, just so happens it has reallyyyy improved the bass as well as fixing an issue.

Lots of people have recommended me in the past just try simple bog standard ones. I bought a cheap bridge for about £20 for my other bass and it's great! 

I'm sure other people will have some much better suggestions, mind!

So I got my new Fender Hi-Mass IV bridge today (props to Thomann for such quick delivery from the EU, not that I wanted to admit it!!!) I did search for some other options such as Wilkinson or my previously used Northwest guitars bridge, but the ones I wanted weren't in stock and this bridge was less than £40 including delivery, so I thought sod it why not, I'd read great things.

Anyway, I put it on about 30 minutes ago, and without really adjusting it, it already feels waayyyy better than my previous bridge. Dare I say it, I feel like the tone has improved as well, but maybe I've had too much coffee and am overexcited. 

Won't count my chickens just yet but I think I've got where I wanted to get! As you can see the string balls (pro term doncha know) sit further back on the hi mass VS the original bbot, I think that has properly increased the tension as I was hoping, so fingers crossed this fixed it.

Thanks for everyone's help! 

16 hours ago, LITTLEWING said:

IMHO you can't go wrong quality or price-wise with a Wilkinson bridge with brass saddles. Got them on two Precisions and they enhance the tone and even everything out nicely.

(And NO,  I have no affiliation with Wilkinson whatsoever before you ask!! They just supply really decent gear at nice prices).

Nice one, thanks buddy I'll have a look!

24 minutes ago, Grangur said:

If this bass is brand new,  Ollie, why don't you take/send it back and make this the problem of the folk who sold it to you?

It's crazy if you're having to buy new bridges and otherwise throw money and the bass, simply to make it do what it should do already straight out of the box.

I'd like to... I ordered it via a friend at GAK about 6+ months ago... the setup was atrocious when I got it so just kept fiddling and assumed the problem was me as I had the problem with a previous Squier P, but yeah if I could, I'd send it back and look into Lakland or Maryusczyk probably. But never mind!
 

6 minutes ago, Grangur said:

True, but is this the same amp that the Op has been using to play all the other basses that have been ok?

Something here doesn't add up, but throwing money at a new bass isn't a good strategy.

This ^^ 3/4/5 other basses are all fine through the practice amp, plus the problem is even more pronounced through my 4x10. It's less noticeable through a small amp. While the sound is definitely noticeable to me, it's more about playing it physically that bothers me. Keeps me up at night! Haha.

I think ultimately the thing that bothers me is that I have numerous basses that are popular and unpopular and I've never had an unsolvable problem with them, yet as soon as I buy one of the most usable and common basses in the world, it has a problem that can't be fixed simply. I find it hard to believe that arguably the most popular bass in the world is the hardest to live with. So I guess I have to work with what I've got!

Okay everyone, thank you all for your assistance so far.

So I've popped on some thicker strings and installed them as suggested, making sure to create a witness point and did a bit of reading around to make sure I was doing it right, and while the tension has increased, the problem is still noticeably there to me. Been playing the bass normally for a few days, no gigs just a few hours of practise, and (at least in my head) the E is already starting to dull slightly. I'm sure my neighbours are starting to agree!

Things I have done in an effort to find a solution:
Pro set up
New strings/different brands
Filmed my playing and I don't run my thumb on the E string, or rest it on the E string to play.
Pickup heights have been adjusted up and down all over the place to no real difference...
Adjusted my playing style, and while other styles do help to eliminate aspects of the problem, sometimes it helps, sometimes it doesn't, but ultimately, I don't feel that I should only be able to play the bass with one specific style... kind of makes it a bit pointless having, especially when it's a 'versatile' P bass.

So I've found a few things that help,  but ultimately they all seem to be just accommodating the problem or incorporating it rather than fixing it. 

The thing that really makes me frustrated is that I've played all number quality/brands of basses for 10+ years now, throwing strings on and off and playing them with all manner off terrible setups, and it strikes me as odd that the only one I feel uncomfortable with is the brand new Fender P. Surely for such a widely produced and popular instrument, it cant require such technical skill and care to keep it well set up. Surely the point of the Precision is largely that it's a very simple, accessible instrument?

I think my next step is going to be a new bridge... My other Fender PJ greatly improved when I replaced the original bridge and I think I'm going to do the same. The one I would normally go for is sold out so I've found this one... seems reasonable... any brief opinions????
https://www.thomann.de/gb/fender_hi_mass_bridge_iv_brass.htm?ref=search_rslt_hi+mass+iv_385092_0

I haven't got tons of time this month but I see there are a few techs local to Sussex who I could get in touch with on the previously mentioned BC's willing to help thread, so if the bridge fails, I will probably go with that. Or just take up the flute or something.

On 06/02/2018 at 12:04, Huge Hands said:

If you're a finger player, it might be worth thumbing the string downward instead of plucking upward to see if there is a difference in volume. 

I've had a couple of 5 string projects where the low string travels outside the pickup's range and sounds muted.  If you thumb it downward, it stays within the range for the initial attack.

I'm not saying to change your playing style, just do it to test the pickup 

Oooh interesting suggestion, I'll give it a whirl. Thanks!

10 hours ago, mybass said:

As a check......pickup height, is it too near the E string, it could possibly restrict string vibration if it’s too close.

Had that recently sorted by a tech, had them in all sorts of heights over the last few months to no difference on the main issue, so I think I can eliminate that now! Thanks!

On 04/02/2018 at 14:43, gary mac said:

Have you checked out the pinned thread about Bass Chatters willing to help out? Maybe one of us is close enough to be able to have a look.

Good shout, totally didn't register with that, thanks!

On 04/02/2018 at 16:27, pineweasel said:

If you like the D’Addario EXL170 set then maybe the balanced tension set would work better? EXL170BT, 45-107. I like them on my Precision. 

Been doing a bit of research into strings and actually thought they looked pretty decent, I've got a few strings saved I'm comparing to see what I like the look of the best. I'm leaning towards some 105 flatwounds at the mo! Thanks!
 

On 04/02/2018 at 18:02, LITTLEWING said:

One more thing to try that a lot of people don't do - when new strings go on you MUST (after tuning to concert pitch) push each string down with moderate pressure immediately after the saddle on the pickup side to create a 'witness point' and a break angle that end. This will complete the nut to saddle singing length. 

The other thing that kills an E string is inadvertenly running one's thumb up and down filling the windings with crud. Keep that digit behind the neck as much as possible.

I recently discovered this practice and have been doing it ever since, it definitely makes a difference for sure. Ah I tend not to use my thumb that much, but I'll make sure I keep an eye out just in case.

Thanks for all the suggestions, I'm going to get some new strings when my bank kindly allows me and have a fiddle, then to a new bridge and finally I'll give the pinned thread a shout if not!

33 minutes ago, KiOgon said:

I can't comment on your choice of cheese graters I only use Flatwounds, favourites - GHS Precision bass 45-105 IIRC on P-basses and strangely enough TI JF344s on Jazzes, that's what works for ME

Of course, but it's reassuring and enlightening to hear what other people are using. Maybe I'll go back to flats again, hadn't considered that in a while!